I/Os in salt water...

[roffey]

so, if you read back through this thread the answer is yes, no and maybe, lol

 

[alldodge]

 

[Rostov]

so, if you read back through this thread the answer is yes, no and maybe, lol

And that is fine, as long as it has explanation why to make a decision on...
I think I got the point - Outdrives are fine as long as you maintain it accordingly or better keeping it out of the water at the dock, and it requires much more effort then V-drive to keep it in tact. And since I want it in the water all the time, V-drive or maybe outboards, would be the right way to go for me.
Thanks everyone! Search for the right boat continues!

 

[Wave34]

Need a digital voltmeter and special test probe. So long as the voltage will stay within range the drives are protected.

alldodge, this is an interesting article.
Unfortunately, Fluke mention what DMM to use, but say nothing about the probe.
Anyone know where to get those probes, and if they are expensive.
I would like to test the system on my Volvo.

 

[alldodge]

Its a copper wire wrapped around a plastic stick. What makes it cost so much is the silver coating on the end of the wire.

Mercathode reference electrode 91-76675T1 new number 8M0135998

 

[Wave34]

Its a copper wire wrapped around a plastic stick. What makes it cost so much is the silver coating on the end of the wire.

Mercathode reference electrode 91-76675T1 new number 8M0135998

Thanks.
Yes a bit expensive at $150.
I don't know if there is a calibration in those probes, because, at work, the welder can braze silver...

 

[alldodge]

IMO silver is used for its conductivity properties, otherwise why not just use the bare copper

I bought one years ago because I was having trouble with my drive at fresh water marina

 

[dingbat]

Silver/silver chloride reference electrode

corrosion-doctors.org

 

[Rostov]

Ok, guys, thanks again for all your input!... but process still in motion...
I looked at a nice Formula 2005 34PC today, and I was ready to pull the plug, when I sow this - about 5" long (x2 in 2 feet apatr) shave off on the rib at the bottom, Looks like it hit something ... The gut is trying to repair it and says there was no penetration, but I an not sure, new to this... Thoughts?

 

[alldodge]

The scrape is just a scrape. What the hull needs is to be sanded with 80 grit until all loose stuff has been removed. Then patch any blisters or other things that need attention. Then at least 2 coats of c=barrier coat and 3 coats of bottom paint

 

[Rostov]

The scrape is just a scrape. What the hull needs is to be sanded with 80 grit until all loose stuff has been removed. Then patch any blisters or other things that need attention. Then at least 2 coats of c=barrier coat and 3 coats of bottom paint

Thanks! So I should not be afraid of that damage? .. I realize all the bottom paint needs to be redone from scratch, I was thinking os sandblusting it, if I can find it anywhere... Do yo know the ballpark for the cost of it? Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

The scrape looks like gel coat, and if that's what it is, then there is no issue. Cost of bottom pain depends on your area, but I would figure around $20 to $100 a linear foot

 

[Rostov]

The scrape looks like gel coat, and if that's what it is, then there is no issue. Cost of bottom pain depends on your area, but I would figure around $20 to $100 a linear foot

Do you know if those ribs are hollow?

 

[alldodge]

Its the same thickness as the rest or the hull. Fiberglass mat and resin are layed together in a mold. Once dry the hull is removed from the mold and then gelcoated

In many cases its a tad thicker in the lifting strikes area

 

[Rostov]

Ok... signed a contract for 2005 Formula 34 PC.

Does anyone knows a good Mechanical surveyor? Thanks! ... Baltimore MD area.