I have returned... with a Starcraft this time!

[Watermann]

Check here for your torque specs online OEM motor manuals. https://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html#

I use a big screwdriver to jam the flywheel teeth and the shaft of the screwdriver against the starter but on my Merc the torque is 55 Ft Lbs so it's not too tough.

On the rectifier I went to a regulator because the stock Merc one over volts (pegs at 16+) at WOT. Many of is in the old Merc groups have gone to these... cheap and a steady 14v max. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DHPMEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[BWR1953]

Check here for your torque specs online OEM motor manuals. https://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html#

I use a big screwdriver to jam the flywheel teeth and the shaft of the screwdriver against the starter but on my Merc the torque is 55 Ft Lbs so it's not too tough.

On the rectifier I went to a regulator because the stock Merc one over volts (pegs at 16+) at WOT. Many of is in the old Merc groups have gone to these... cheap and a steady 14v max. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DHPMEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"273","width":"400","src":"https:\/\/images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com\/images\/I\/71zARZrchIL._AC_SL1500_.jpg"**[/IMG2]

Thanks WM! My flywheel torque spec is 65 ft lbs, so I should be able to handle that okay with a screwdriver.

The OEM rectifier puts out 16vdc? Yow!

I really like that voltage regulator you referenced. I'll check further into it and see if I can use it in my application. The rectifier that I ordered can be easily returned, so that's no biggie.

 

[Watermann]

Here's that exact regulator mounted on my 140 Merc with thermal compound for computer heat sinks on the mating surfaces, works great 14v max.

 

[BWR1953]

Here's that exact regulator mounted on my 140 Merc with thermal compound for computer heat sinks on the mating surfaces, works great 14v max.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/5fyntq.bn.files.1drv.com\/y4m_CAl1Dc5_rKD9EZxPD0e-XZDWhUKZHLloMjqEXOLtOK5Y2NExAThZ8vDG9d7WvcKp4RhRf9giB-EzfvNVpLIufMsef4EB_CG68cLokiTMYc0_dD6vvgOIL90rOELVHPkZikXmIsfTW9n3dDXXbKE62-ZOWAFlrsLaI39Sb5o4sL6LRHq3ztIZ0wCWEOvpqKNcwvGdFz4i0Ql3YDWETPqyA?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none"**[/IMG2]

Thanks for the pic!

I did order that regulator last night after I checked my engine for enough real estate for mounting. It's not returnable but I think it's going to fit.

 

[BWR1953]

One more delivery tomorrow and I'll be able to begin working on the motor. Again.

 

[Watermann]

Good times working on old mucked up stuff isn't it? :lol:

 

[BWR1953]

Good times working on old mucked up stuff isn't it? :lol:

Yeahhh... Maybe tomorrow. The thermal paste didn't arrive yesterday. It should be here today though. 

Meanwhile, we're sitting in the car dealership getting the oil changed in my Sportage for the first time. Tomorrow I'll probably have to cut the grass. Delays, delays. :facepalm:

But! Once I finish the current tasks, it shouldn't have to be done again for a REALLY long time.

 

[BWR1953]

What kind of grease is this? Dielectric grease? Thermal paste?

It's on the connector from the old stator to the switchbox.

Is it for corrosion protection or something else? What should I use?

 

[BWR1953]

WTH is this? It's on the switchbox and it's covered with a rubbery surface. :noidea:

 

[Watermann]

No there isn't any sort of goop that goes on the SW terminals, leave them dry.

That object the arrow is pointing at, no idea but it's not for a wire connection that I can tell from seeing Merc SBs.

 

[BWR1953]

After weeks of interruptions, the boy and I were finally able to get back to work on the Mercury yesterday.

Made some progress too!


YESTERDAY:

The old OEM stator next to the new aftermarket one. The OEM unit definitely looks better built.




And we had to deal with the wiring too.

 

[BWR1953]

Today's progress:

Wiring organized!




Then this:

I'm starting to feel like this! :lol:

 

[BWR1953]

No there isn't any sort of goop that goes on the SW terminals, leave them dry.

That object the arrow is pointing at, no idea but it's not for a wire connection that I can tell from seeing Merc SBs.

Thanks, WM! I did leave the connections dry when we connected everything up over the last couple of days. :encouragement:

The thing by the arrow apparently didn't affect operation, so I'm not going to worry about it now.

 

[Watermann]

Oh yeah now you have it going on, :thumb: so did you multi meter test the voltage at the battery to make sure the new stator with the new regulator were all good while you had the Merc purring?

 

[BWR1953]

Oh yeah now you have it going on, :thumb: so did you multi meter test the voltage at the battery to make sure the new stator with the new regulator were all good while you had the Merc purring?

Yessir, we did. And the voltage was rapidly, wildly fluctuating from nearly zero up to 16vdc. I think that the regulator has an insufficient grounding point. I'm going out to the garage in a few minutes to construct a grounding strap for it so that the connection is really solid. Check the pic below.

Also, regarding the link & sync... yesterday afternoon I called the repair shop that got the engine running for me last December. They DID do the link & sync at that time and advised me not to mess with it because it should be fine now because it's all mechanical and hasn't been changed. The engine has only been run a small number of times, including 4 trips on the water since then. So, I'll heed the advice. ESPECIALLY the part about NOT attempting to adjust the WOT timing! :lol:

More updates later today.

 

[Watermann]

Is there a step down from the mounting screw to the surface to where it tightens down it's cockeyed? I seem to remember it being that way and having to shim it with a nut and washer to make it mount solid with the AL cooling fins on the surface.

 

[BWR1953]

Is there a step down from the mounting screw to the surface to where it tightens down it's cockeyed? I seem to remember it being that way and having to shim it with a nut and washer to make it mount solid with the AL cooling fins on the surface.

Yes, there's a step, hence the mounting angle. I started to add a shim when I installed it but couldn't quite get it right. I was under time pressure to get the motor running then, so I just pressed on. I'm taking a lunch break now but will try to cobble together a shim when I'm back out there later.

BTW - we checked battery voltage before starting the engine the other day and it was at 12.45vdc. After running the engine for maybe 10 minutes max., it had gone up to 12.58. So I was getting something. Hopefully the ground strap and shim will help stabilize the output.

 

[BWR1953]

I did get a new ground strap fashioned today and installed it to the regulator with washers as shims behind.

Didn't have time to test the engine today but am planning on doing that tomorrow morning.


I used 10 ga. wire but trimmed one end to accommodate a smaller connector on one end. Then I tinned the end.

 

[BWR1953]

This morning I had to remove the new Voltage Regulator... Again.

I forgot to install the Thermal Paste on the rear yesterday. :facepalm:

It took awhile, but I got it done.




Then I adjusted the carbs to get the engine idle RPM into spec at 600 - 700 RPM, after a 10 minute warmup, in forward gear.

After adjustment, I ran the engine for another 10 minutes at idle in neutral and then 10 more while it was idling in gear. The engine didn't die when put into gear or when taken out of gear. :joyous:


And after the idle speed test, we did a Voltage Regulator test.

I guess it's ready for the water again!

So we moved it out under the tarp shelter beside the garage so we'll have room for the NEXT project inside the garage!



And although it's already under a tarp, we covered it with another tarp too. Someday I'll get a custom cover made.



Water test coming soon!

 

[DLNorth]

How do you expect that to cool with all that goo blocking the fins?
The paste should only be on the mating surfaces to assure heat transfer from metal to metal.

Dan