How to get old transom ports out/replaced/fixed.

SALT1961

Cadet
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Messages
19
Hello fellow Boaters,
On my 2006 Tahoe 215 there is a live well in the step up to the bow platform. There are 3 hoses that run from the livewell to the transom. One is for the feed/pump line for fill and circulation, one is the overflow to let the old water drain as the new comes in and the last is for the drain at the bottom of the well. The pump is currently not working. I tested and there is 12 V + going to it. It is not clogged, I can flush water both from the transom and through the jet in the livewell so has to be bad pump. The pump is the a Johnson 28552 cartrige pump. It is located at the very back of the boat crammed between the engine and the transom and while I can twist it out of the housing I cannot lift it to get it out. I have read posts that say if I can get it to turn a bit towards port I will be able to clear the engine and do the swap. Thing is that I have tried very hard to get the intake port to turn through the transom wall and no luck. Tried finding a nipple extracter and the thing you use to get out inground sprinkler connections out but since it is made of plastic I am afraid it will break or split.

The other issue is that the hose for the overflow has become disconnected from the bilge port/outlet. It is the type that is chrome and has the two slots in either side. Again no luck getting it loose. I even cracked off a piece trying a thin flat wrench crammed in the slots and a pair of vice grip pliers. Now I know I can't be the first one to face these challenges so please if you have experience I would greatly appreciate you sharing your wisdom. How the heck do I get these loose or out without making a huge mess of the transom. I have attached a picture of the outlets.
Thanks in advance,
Stan.
 

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alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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42,054
Many bilge pumps are just not accessible without removing the motor and looks like yours is also one of them. Get a piece of flat aluminum stock from the hardware store. Mount the new pump to one end then slide new pump next to old one. Bend the aluminum in a way so you can fasten it to a stringer further away.

Might use a dremel cutting wheel
 

SALT1961

Cadet
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Messages
19
Many bilge pumps are just not accessible without removing the motor and looks like yours is also one of them. Get a piece of flat aluminum stock from the hardware store. Mount the new pump to one end then slide new pump next to old one. Bend the aluminum in a way so you can fasten it to a stringer further away.

Might use a dremel cutting wheel
Hey alldodge,

It is not the bilge pump but the pump for the live well. Fortunately the bildge pump was readily accessible and change of that was a breeze. But you do allude to one solution I thought of for the future and that is to if/when I do get the old one out I think I will run a bit of hose from the transom a bit further up into the bilge and then put the pump on and continue the hose to the live well input.

I guess that "cutting" or drilling both out might be the only solution?
 
Last edited:

alldodge

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Staff member
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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,054
ok,
Think the major issue is that the thru hulls are normall sealed with something like 3M4000 which will also be a bear to grind it out to reseal
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,066
Replaced all my thru hulls a few years back.

Never going to remove them with front access only. Need to get to the back side of the fitting and put a wrench on the nut.

A 10" or 12" flat file fit perfectly in the slots. Used a 12" adjustable wrench to hold the file/fitting while I cranked on the nut with the wrench. Used a dead blow to knock the fitting loose, then out of the transom's core.

Put two coats of penetrating epoxy on the wood core before installing the new fitting with 4200.
 

SALT1961

Cadet
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Messages
19
Replaced all my thru hulls a few years back.

Never going to remove them with front access only. Need to get to the back side of the fitting and put a wrench on the nut.

A 10" or 12" flat file fit perfectly in the slots. Used a 12" adjustable wrench to hold the file/fitting while I cranked on the nut with the wrench. Used a dead blow to knock the fitting loose, then out of the transom's core.

Put two coats of penetrating epoxy on the wood core before installing the new fitting with 4200.
YIKES, I guess it is what it is. Not looking forward to this adventure.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
 
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