How to adjust and prepare for 1st start after power head swap

[Eddie Rivera]

Re: How to adjust and prepare for 1st start after power head swap

ALERT ALERT ALERT ALERT

I found out what is making my motor cough; when i look at the second inline fuel filter between the carbie and the fuel pump, that fuel filter seems to spit a cough of air, then the motor sort of bogs out. what and why is that??

Help! can i still go to the lake and try it out ???

 

[Jiggz]

Re: How to adjust and prepare for 1st start after power head swap

Idle RPM in neutral will always be faster than idle in gear. So your situation should be OK as long as the idle RPM is not too high that it jerks or grinds the clutch dog when putting it in gear. Better yet get a tach or even a tiny tach so you can monitor the RPM. Idle neutral should be around 800~1000 while in gear should be around 750-900 RPM.

 

[Eddie Rivera]

Re: How to adjust and prepare for 1st start after power head swap

Thank you Jiggz, as always!
Could any one help me understand why the fuel filter before my carb puffs air?

 

[pnwboat]

Re: How to adjust and prepare for 1st start after power head swap

Is that the fuel pump that you just replaced the check valves in? I assume you also replaced the diaphragm too?

 

[Eddie Rivera]

Re: How to adjust and prepare for 1st start after power head swap

Sorry its not. my dremel broke so i left that fuel pump alone, what i did was i grabbed my 89 parts motor and took out and inspected it. I noticed it was very nice and clean and tight at the diaphragm contrary to my original 89s diaphragm that was stretched out and thin looking. should i just change the diaphragm too? Im sorry to sound dumb but i should have done it i guess, but i was thinking of if its not broken dont fix it and did not want to get stuck like with the other pump or mess anything else up and continue fixing things like the last year and a half. So? i assume changing it is in order? as process of elimination?

 

[pnwboat]

Re: How to adjust and prepare for 1st start after power head swap

Wouldn't hurt to change the diaphragm, but that's your call. The diaphragm should be nice and flexible. If it gets stiff and kind of hard, then it doesn't work as well. It's kind of hard to say if what you see happening in the clear fuel filter is caused by the fuel pump or something else. Make sure all of the fuel line connections between the fuel pump and gas tank have clamps on them and are tight and not leaking any air. Make sure the fuel tank vent is open and working properly.

 

[Eddie Rivera]

Re: How to adjust and prepare for 1st start after power head swap

ok i rebuilt the whole fuel pump, i changed the metal screen or mesh, the rubber gasket inside that goes with the mesh, the gasket between pump and the power head, fuel filter gasket and the diaphragm that goes with it, so now the fuel pump is completely rebuilt except for the check valves.
Bad news is that the motor still spits or coughs air, i got fresh fuel and 50:1 mixture with 3 Oz per of oil per gallon of fuel.
i will tighten up all the clamps. is it bad that i have an extra fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump?
i checked the tightness of the fly wheel and is set at 80 lbs.
whatelse can i do?

 

[Jiggz]

Re: How to adjust and prepare for 1st start after power head swap

Thank you Jiggz, as always!
Could any one help me understand why the fuel filter before my carb puffs air?

The only reason I can think of is that you have a slight air leak (suction side of the fuel pump) indicating the fuel pump is working perfectly and pumping air into the system. Make sure all connections are hose clamped and if problem persists, do a process of elimination by replacing components one at a time like primer bulb, any add on filters installed in the system and of course hoses just in case there is a crack or pin hole in them.