How Do I Remove a Stuck Gimbal Bearing?

[KM7]

I could use some suggestions for removing a stuck gimbal bearing. Water got into the U-Joint bellows and onto the bearing and it rusted. I did not think that the rust was that extensive because the boat was running fine but had a slight rumble in the bearing. The water getting into the bellows was also leaking into the bilge and that became the motivation to replace the bearing. (There is also other work I'm doing due to the leak. See my other posts)

I have tried 3 methods so far and have not been successful:

1) Slide hammer
This has 3 jaws that go through the bearing and expand outward with a collar. It grabs the bearing from the back. You slide the weight hard and fast against the stop to bang the bearing out. The weight/slide weighs 2 ½ lbs. That did not work.

2) Bearing puller
I also have a custom bearing puller with a long shaft, a way to brace it against the gimbal assembly and a nut that you turn. It works just like the official tool. See pictures. That did not get the bearing out either but there were 2 pops, so something may have moved. I was torquing on the nut to maybe 50 ft-lbs. (pretty hard with a 10 inch Crescent wrench) Never having done this before and not wanting to damage anything like the gimbal, I stopped.

3) Heating the housing with a torch
This is a Propane canister with the torch screwed on. I heated the housing for a couple of minutes and then alternated between the torch, slide hammer and bearing puller. Since I had been spraying the bearing with “Big Blaster” rust dissolver, I did read the label and it did NOT say that it was flammable. I had a fire extinguisher next to me just in case. I also ran the blower first. Heating may have done a little but it did not come out.

4) Drill out the bearing
My next step is to drill out the bearing. I have been told that works but I want to be certain that I know exactly what to drill. Below is a picture of the bearing with the parts numbered.

Which one do I drill out? Any other suggestions?

Thank you

 

[alldodge]

I've not seen anyone try to drill out the bearing, and I see a pic of the slide hammer and puller but not the bearing.

I had one which wouldn't come out so I took it to a Boat Mech many years ago and he hammered it back in then pulled. Said it made a very slight groove from not pulling directly straight

 

[KM7]

The second picture, called GimbalBearingNewCompressed is looking right at the bearing. I have tried hammering it back in, then banging it out, back in etc. It still does not come out.

 

[Bt Doctur]

spray with a penetrating spray, the with the pic of the puller .replace the wood with 3/4 or 1inch steel

 

[KM7]

I have been spraying with "Big Blaster" a penetrating spray for 3 weeks.

Re replacing the wood with steel. The strength of the wood has not become a factor. I was concerned about damaging the gimbal with the load that I was putting on it. I had gotten to the point when it was very difficult to torque the nut on the puller. That must be putting thousands of pounds of load on the bearing. Maybe that is what is required but I'd rather have a professional tell me that.

 

[alldodge]

Looks to be salt water area and bearing has welded itself

Bearing was put in backwards, you can remove the center of the bearing by rotating center piece to left or right, then pull it out. It will give less area for puller but may help

The outer part of the bearing is aluminum

 

[KM7]

Update !!! I got the old bearing out! It took the OEM tool to do it and a good amount of torque.

Now I'm cleaning up the housing where the bearing sits. Yes, there was a lot of corrosion.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Skip the over the counter stuff. Mix 50%ATF and 50%Acetone. Best penetrating oil that exists.

Brush on liberally or spray on

Use a 5# fist maul and beat the bearing inward a bit with a piece of white oak. Swing like your trying to turn the world......That will loosen the bearing.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Never mind, I see you got it out

 

[KM7]

YES but thanks for next time !!!

 

[Lou C]

Update !!! I got the old bearing out! It took the OEM tool to do it and a good amount of torque.

Now I'm cleaning up the housing where the bearing sits. Yes, there was a lot of corrosion.

Congrats you’re officially a salt water marine mechanic!

 

[Scott Danforth]

Only if new swear words were created

 

[Lou C]

Been there done that!

 

[KM7]

The gimbal bearing is out!! Next, I'm replacing the seal behind it. It is called the gimbal bearing oil seal or Seal, Driveshaft, part number 0911795.

Surprise, it is also stuck!! I have remove the rubber portion to expose the metal and have pried it away from the housing. See picture. Any suggestions?

 

[KM7]

The seal is out!! and I have cleaned up the race (?) for it. I'm ready to reassemble. I assume that the rounded edge goes into the cavity. I have loaded 2 pictures of the seal. The Rounded edge showing and the Sharp edge showing,

 

[KM7]

I found the answer: Yes the rounded edge goes IN leaving the open side out, facing aft. That was in my official OMC Service Manual. P 6-11 . The manual also says to coat the metal case with OMC gasket sealer. Since I do not have the official tool to install it, I decided that I can use the old bearing as a guide. I will tap the seal in the recess to get it started and then put the old bearing on top. I will use the back of a wooden hammer and then tap the seal into place using the bearing. I will work around the circle tapping Top, Botton, Left, Right etc.

After that, I will do the Marine Tex (JB Weld) repair of the gimbal housing where the U-Joint bellows attaches.

 

[alldodge]

If your new bearing is the new style which is sealed, not greasable. Then don't really need the inner seal. It's there to try to keep the grease out of the bilge

 

[rolmops]

What about the gimball bearing puller? It is a tool designed for this job, and it can also help drive a new gimball in place while evenly driving it in. I bought one about 15 years ago and I have yet to see the bearing it did not get out by simply using a large ratchet handle to tighten the bolt .
When buying a new one, beware of the cheap Chinese made ones. They are a tiny bit smaller and tend to slide out by themselves. A good one is worth the extra dollars.

 

[KM7]

@alldodge - the new bearing of OEM and does have a grease port.
Per a very experienced repair shop owner, the function of the shaft seal is: if water gets into the bilge, the seal prevents it from getting to the u-Joints.

@rolmops - The mechanic did use the factory bearing puller. Even that took quite a bit of torque. He was turning the nut with a 2 ft long pipe wrench.

 

[alldodge]

Per a very experienced repair shop owner, the function of the shaft seal is: if water gets into the bilge, the seal prevents it from getting to the u-Joints.

Well then he must be right