How do I remove 56 Johnson Javelin carb??

[lindy46]

Looks like you're pretty close now. It's hard to tell from the first video just when the cam roller link rod just starts to move, but it should be just as the pointer passes the scribe mark on the cam. When the mag plate has rotated as far as it can go and hits its' stop, the butterfly should be cracked open just about how much it is in the video. That is the point when the fuel saver rod collar should just hit the stop. Looks like you're pretty close. At full throttle the butterfly should be completely open and it is in your video. Once you've got it all adjusted properly, there really is no need or no way to test the motor in a barrel. Time for a lake test. Just take a screwdriver and wrench with you! But you probably won't need them. Wait until the motor is running perfectly before putting the air silencer back on. I ran my 1957 Lark for a couple years before I decided to put the air silencer on and it ran just fine. I couldn't really hear much difference in the noise level either way.

 

[KathyD19]

Progress!?!? I got it the fuel saver collar adjusted, I *think* the link & sync is correct but I was puzzled as to why with the remote throttle UNhooked (as it needed to be to do all this), I could manually move the throttle all the way to completely open throttle valve yet when I hooked it back up and moved it from the remote, the butterfly would NOT fully open. I sat and thought about it for a minute and decided to focus on the remote cable, since that's what I use when at the lake. I began adjusting the thumb screw and watched the corresponding movement of the fuel saver rod to the collar etc and voila! That, I think, was the issue! The remote cable wasn't set properly so it wasn't actuating the throttle fully. Even when I had the remote throttle all the way forward at the lake, it topped out at a blah 1/3ish speed. That still remains to be tested at the lake though. I barreled it again and just wanted to see if I had the slow speed needle dialed in as good as possible "on land". It starts right up and runs good but oh boy the rich fumes! To try and see if the needle would respond to me turning it (because I never really noticed any reaction when I've turned it) I tried to do what WillyClay had suggested..to turn the needle all the way in and see if that stopped the motor. It began sounding sluggish but it didn't die. Not sure what that means. Also I did a "dropped cylinder" test since originally I thought I had an issue with the lower cylinder not working so I pulled that spark plug wire as it was running and filmed that too (#2nd video). I have attached the first video of it running, with me zooming in on the fuel saver collar so maybe you can tell me if that looks correct now, Jimmbo? Next will be another lake test and I only have one more day I can do that before I have to leave on vacation. If I can't get it done before then, I swear I'll get right back to it and post my results. Thank you again for staying by my side!
https://youtu.be/iB4oM2jJVl8

https://youtu.be/dL4QiLGA8ng

 

[flyingscott]

Your idle sounds a little high. I would lower it before you start shifting it. Other than that it sounds really good.

 

[oldboat1]

^^agree. You can safely test shifting in the barrel, btw. (think you mentioned something about that earlier). Just don't rev too much -- leave the hose running, and keep a safe water depth. If it stalls when shifting, idle mix might be a little lean.

 

[KathyD19]

FlyingScott and oldboat...I don't have an idle screw on this motor. How do I lower the idle other than just throttling back? And I really can safely put it into forward in the barrel if I have the throttle down low?? I was always warned never to do that, that it will knock the barrel out and be a bad thing?

 

[oldboat1]

May be confusing threads, but think there was discussion of a plastic screw down by the end of the remote cable hook up. You can find those on eBay, or look for something to replace it in your collection of screws and bolts. Otherwise, just remove the cable and adjust with the tiller grip. Adjust the cable to match the motor (use the adjustment wheel).

You might wrap a rope around the barrel and motor stand for a little more stability. Just test it out and take it easy. Lock the motor so it doesn't tilt up in reverse (think the '56 has a tilt lock -- maybe not). Main thing is that you can shift smoothly without stumbling or stalling -- should be able to do that at a low idle. No need to blow the water out of the barrel.

 

[jimmbo]

It will send some water out of the barrel, just don't jazz the throttle, unless you want a bath. If the leg is deep enough in the barrel, the barrel won't be going anywhere, even if you do rev it. The water will be removed, but the barrel will remain. Turning the engine to Port or Starboard while in gear while in a narrow barrel could result in prop to barrel contact

You control box might have an Idle speed adjustment stop screw on it. It may also have a friction adjustment screw. There is a black screw/knob just behind the throttle lever. There may also be one on the front or rear of the box.

 

[oldboat1]

Should add that one of the idle mix tests is throttling up -- need to be able to do that without stalling. But don't need to wild with that. If it's going to stall, it will do that as you go to throttle up -- no need to hold it there. (good test of all the link and sync stuff too).

 

[jimmbo]

FInal Hi Speed Mixture and low speed mix will need to be done in the water

From a 1958 35 seahorse owners manual

 

[KathyD19]

The idle screw has been missing since I got the motor. Also the tiller handle doesn't work, seems like there's a part or piece missing that would engage it?

 

[jimmbo]

Just find a bolt and a nut with the same thread. Put the nut on the bolt as far as you can. Then put the bolt in to the threads on the gear. With the engine running in gear, turn the bolt in until it contacts its stop, then bring the nut sown to the gear and tighten it while preventing the bolt from rotating. That should lock it in place. To readjust, loosen the nut, and turn bolt in or out as required, then retighten the nut

 

[KathyD19]

Well I just got back from lake testing and it was underwhelming. I'm attaching two videos here. I really thought I'd gotten everything right and solved the issue of it not going full speed at WOT but apparently I am still missing something. The motor just is not performing correctly. It's rattly, shaking, sounds uneven and doesn't have the full power it used to. I really am at a loss at this point. I have to go out of town for a week starting Monday so I'm going to shelve this until after I get back. I think my only hope at this point is to try to find someone close to me that can work on it. It's a great little boat and motor, I got several people oohing and ahhing over it at the ramp but sadly, it has me for its mechanic. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you guys for all of the stellar advice and sticking with me through all of my newbie questions. I would love to hear your thoughts on how it performs on the video; I am still puzzled. https://youtu.be/ngeoanx_lvM
https://youtu.be/jMc-E84NhMo

 

[oldboat1]

Sounds like the h.s. needle setting is too rich -- that would be my first go-to, anyway.

 

[KathyD19]

Sounds like the h.s. needle setting is too rich -- that would be my first go-to, anyway.

I had it 1 1/4 turn out. It sure was stinky though...definitely rich. Do you think that's all that's going on...needing to adjust the high speed needle?

 

[jimmbo]

The initial setting for the hi speed needle is 1 turn out. It is usually on the Rich side. If you are 1 1/4 turns out it is very rich and it should really pick when adjusted. I’m had included the adjustment procedure in post #109

 

[KathyD19]

Thank you Jimmbo...I will check that out. I was afraid to run it too lean because of the engine getting it's lubrication from the oil in the fuel. Do you really think it's something that simple? I don't have anyone to go on the lake with me so I can adjust while they drive. Can I turn it a quarter turn when it's off, start it up and drive a bit to see how it is, then turn it off and adjust again (repeating until it's good) or does it have to be done only when the motor is running?

 

[jimmbo]

No, you should be adjusting while it is running. Your ears will detect very small changes in engine speed as you adjust the hi speed mix. You are running TC-W3 oil at 24:1 mix? The engine will lose power when the carb leans out. Set it for max rpm. Once that is found, you can richen it about 1/32 to 1/16 turn if you are worried about leanness

 

[KathyD19]

Yes, I'm using a 24: 1 mix. Will have to find a friend to go with me the next time out.

 

[lindy46]

The gasil mix is constant and doesn't change when you adjust the jets. When you "lean out" the mixture, you're just increasing the air to gas/oil mixture going into the cylinders. Yes, you need to have someone turn the high speed needle while running the motor wide open. Once that's adjusted for optimum speed/rpm's, then slow to idle and do the same with the slow speed knob. Lean it out until it sneezes or hiccups, then open the needle about 1/8 to 1/4 turn until the sneeze stops. Tighten down the packing nuts so the needles can't vibrate loose and you shouldn't have to adjust them again.

 

[boobie]

Kathy, where are you located at ????