How do I remove 56 Johnson Javelin carb??

[oldboat1]

^^jimmbo and lindy are on it.

http://ww2.iboats.com/Lower-Unit-Group/dm/cart_id.357219705--session_id.840257178--view_id.1544243

Not your motor, spring and screw (plastic screw) would be number 7 and 8 in the diagram. The screw is shown as not available, but they’re around. See if there is a hole behind the bracket holding your throttle cable.

But you can run without it.

 

[KathyD19]

Lindy, you're absolutely correct that I need to do the link and sync procedure...WillyClay has been after me to do this as well. I have so far avoided it because I can't figure out how to see the areas the procedure describes and I'm afraid I'm going to have to take more things off this motor (like the flywheel) to access it. I have the service manual online and can see the procedure but the pictures are fuzzy and I don't know how to see where the mark scribed on the cam is or where the adjustment screws are. I know it has to be done but I've put my head in the sand about it since for some reason this one procedure is causing my brain to tangle up). Your description is VERY good and I'm going to print it out and show it to my hubby to see if a fresh set of eyes will be able to help me find the scribe line etc without having to pull the flywheel. He hasn't helped me one time on this motor, he is not a motor kind of guy, but a fresh set of eyes might help. Or he may say "eh, no clue" and go in the house lol.

 

[Johnson110]

Ah yes But I know the schooling you did to become a dental hygentist, so I am certain you will able to get this!

 

[lindy46]

You shouldn't have to remove the flywheel to do a link and synch. The pointer next to the cam roller is very visible in the first picture in this post. The line on the cam should be pretty obvious - may have to clean off the grime. I don't recall if your motor has an eccentric screw on the connector for the roller link rod (did we talk about this before?). If it does, it's simple - you loosen the lock screw and adjust the eccentric.If it doesn't have the eccentric, there are two bolts on the underside of the cam, on opposite ends. Just loosen them and make the adjustment on the right (port side) which slides in and out. The collar on the fuel saver rod is easy to adjust.

 

[KathyD19]

Ah yes But I know the schooling you did to become a dental hygentist, so I am certain you will able to get this!

I'd much rather be scaling a big ol' chunk of calculus off someone's molar than be frustrated by this...but thank you for the compliment!!

 

[KathyD19]

I'm a visual person so I figured it might help for me to make a couple quick videos of what I'm looking at on my motor.
https://youtu.be/o6d-IwCPWjY

https://youtu.be/hnM3ZPGMmIo

 

[lindy46]

It looks like the fuel saver rod is working properly - when the collar butts up against the stop, it should "click over" and further open the carb butterfly, which is what it is doing. I can't tell if the magneto is fully advanced when the collar hits the stop but that's how it should be. However, during the time before the collar hits the stop, the cam roller should be slowly opening the butterfly, which it doesn't look like its doing in the video. Looks like the butterfly isn't opening until the collar hits the stop in the video. I don't see an eccentric screw to adjust the roller, so you have to loosen those two bolts underneath the cam to adjust. You'll have to look closely for a mark, scratch, or an indent on the cam - it has to be there. Then adjust the right side of the cam out to get to the point where the roller starts to move the butterfly when the pointer hits the mark on the cam. I usually keep a little tension on the left cam bolt when I adjust the cam so that the spring-action of the roller doesn't just push the right side back in before you can tighten it down. Hope that is clear - a pretty simple job if you've done a hundred of them - not so simple when it's your first time.

 

[KathyD19]

Some success tonight! I found the scribe line after cleaning off a lot of grease and gunk!!!! I loosed the right side adjusting cam bolt but cannot seem to loosen the left side bolt even after a good PB Blaster soak. It's the one that has a black wire attached but upon further sleuthing, I'm thinking it's simply attached as a ground because when I trace the wire back it goes to my kill switch. I assume I MUST loosen both bolts in order to adjust the cam roller to the scribe line, correct? Just having the right one loose doesn't seem to allow me to freely move the cam plate without causing the entire mechanism to move along with it, which obviously doesn't help a darned thing. I also loosened the collar on the fuel saver rod and rather than removing it completely, I slid it towards the bend on the rod closer to the front of the motor to get it out of the way (then tightened it up again) It's not hitting or hanging up on anything so I'm hoping it's ok there but if I need to fully remove it, just tell me. Just gave that bolt another good squirt of PB and will check it in the morning. Let me know if I'm finally on the right path! Is the scribe line supposed to line up with the pointer to the left of the cam roller or is it supposed to line up with the center of the cam roller itself (I believe I read that somewhere else online)?

 

[lindy46]

Yes, you must loosen the left bolt in order to move the cam in and out. Align the POINTER to the scribe line, not the roller. Carb butterfly must just start to open at that point. Once that's adjusted properly, then advance the throttle until the magneto hits its' stop and can't go any further. At this point, snug the collar on the fuel saver up against its' stop and tighten the set screw. Now futher advancement of the throttle will be controlled by the fuel saver rod to fully open the butterfly. That should do it!

 

[Willyclay]

Lindy46, thanks for all your great support of Kathy while she battles PO demons! FYI, I recommended she disconnect the Fuel Saver collar to eliminate one variable in the quest to get her RD going again. If we can get her past the Link&Sync, I think she will have a great old motor.

 

[KathyD19]

Both bolts are now loose but I can't seem to make that cam plate slide freely to adjust the scribe mark and pointer. It's definitely not in the right place so this needs done. I have the screws loose, I'm holding the throttle closed but the cam plate just keeps moving along with whatever it's bolted too (the correct terminology for that part escapes my brain at the moment) I'm assuming it needs to move LEFT AND RIGHT, correct? As you said Lindy there doesn't seem to be an eccentric screw which if I understand correctly is another way to adjust it in some models. SO close to getting this dialed in and barrel testing. Help!

 

[lindy46]

The left bolt is in a single hole and simply locks the cam in place once set. The right bolt is in a slotted hole in the cam so you can adjust the cam in and out. Don't completely loosen the left bolt - leave a little tension on it, or the spring on the roller will just push the cam back in when advance the throttle trying to get the adjustment right. Set the pointer at the scribe mark, then move the cam (probably out or towards you) until the carb butterfly just starts to move. Then tighten up both bolts.

 

[KathyD19]

Lindy, I'm still not able to move that cam plate in any way (towards me or even left or right). I looked at the hole that the adjusting screw goes into and it's a simple round hole, nothing slotted to allow for movement. I'm attaching a picture of it here. I'm grateful for your patience with me as this seems like it should be the simplest thing since I know what to do, I just can't move it. I'm going to attach a short video of me showing what I mean by it not moving. I can move the throttle to line up the scribe line and the pointer and the butterfly hasn't even begun to open at that point. At the point where it does begin to open, the scribe line is hidden by the roller so it's pretty far off where it needs to be.
Also the end cap of the remote throttle cable fell to the ground as I was messing with the cam plate. I'm hoping that it's just something I slip back on and it will stay in place whenever I hook the remote throttle back up but with my luck, I probably messed some other thing up too.
If that adjustment screw hole really is just round and not slotted then is there another method of adjusting this?
https://youtu.be/8GbZrnwG-Xo

 

[jimmbo]

You have a RD-18, this page references RD 16 and up. RD 19(1957) is different

http://162.144.28.33/lib/johnson/man...nson.html#/162

You may have accessed this manual earlier. If not you will find a lot of info.

The cable end, looks like the set screws that grip the core cable came loose and the core has slipped. You might be able to reanchor it

Of course the core may have broke, which would require a new cable

 

[lindy46]

It's possible that motor originally had an eccentric bolt on the roller connecting rod to adjust the timing and someone removed it in the past 62 years. It's been awhile since I worked on one, and I just can't remember. If it were me, I'd remove the cam and stretch that hole fore and aft with a dremel to make it adjustable.

Have you visited the AOMCI.org site? There are several chapters in Illinois and someone from a chapter close to you would probably be willing to help. I'm an AOMCI member in Tennessee and most of the guys I've met are more than willing to help anyone with a problem. They have regular meets during the summer. Check out this link:
http://www.aomci.org/local.htm - also check out the local meets: http://www.aomci.org/events/

I'll be out of town until Saturday fishing - got my little Gheenoe with a 1958 Evinrude Lightwin ready to go. With a little work, this motor now starts on the first pull and runs as good as it did when new. These motors were built to last, so don't give up!

 

[KathyD19]

I got the throttle cable back in rather easily...I had loosened those two screws thinking I needed to do that to remove the remote cable from the motor so that was my fault but it seems ok now. I looked at the AOMCI site and most of the IL ones I see on there are in the northern part of the state, about 4 hours away. But I will contact one of them and see if they know of anyone closer to my area that would be able to help me. In the mean time, I just went ahead and retightened those two screws and put the collar back where it had been on the fuel saver rod. If I'm lucky (and so far I sure haven't been) then maybe the link and sync was already ok. From what I've learned on here, how the scribe mark and the pointer are supposed to be lined up just as the butterfly is starting to open, then nope, this isn't right. It's past the scribe mark when that starts to happen. I feel like it does need an adjustment but I'm hesitant to remove that cam plate to dremel it. Such tight quarters in there just getting those two screws retightened. If they are the only thing holding it on, then it *might* be doable for me but I can't imagine trying to get those screws started again in that tight area when I can barely fit a crescent wrench in there and only can turn a wee bit at a time before having to flip the wrench over. I will try to find time to barrel test it tomorrow, just to see if anything I've done has made a difference. Then my week gets super busy, driving to Kansas to help my son move. Lindy I hope you have a great time fishing and be safe! I'd love to see pics of your boat and motor sometime. Please feel free to message them to me! Thank you again for your help and if anyone else can chime in with ideas as to why that cam plate doesn't seem to be adjustable, I'd love to hear 'em!

 

[jimmbo]

You might find a box or combination wrench will fit in there better. Perhaps the armature plate and/or cam has been replaced with an incorrect one.

 

[KathyD19]

I've tried a couple different wrenches. I'm going by a hardware store tomorrow so I will see if they have anything better there. A longer handled one would be helpful. Interesting thought that perhaps the armature plate has been replaced with the wrong one. I hadn't considered that. The carb had been rebuilt at some point, in my opinion, since the float doesn't look like an original style, but of course over all these years, it would have had to have been repaired at least a few times. Btw, jimmbo, I have had an online link to that service manual and it's been extremely helpful. Thank you!

 

[jimmbo]

Don't go Dremelling it. Using one of those is like letting the waiter put Pepper on your food, More, more, more, Too Much!

In the late 50s thru till 1974, my Uncle had the predecessor of your engine, a 1955 25 hp. Same displacement, peak HP at 500 rpm less, lower compression, some port timing differences, a smaller carb and no fuel saver linkage. My dad had the successor to your engine a 57 35hp, slightly more displacement, bigger carb.

I saw your videos on the lake, it looked like it was running pretty good at speed. Love the old motors, they sure beat the boring stuff made today

 

[KathyD19]

Don't go Dremelling it. Using one of those is like letting the waiter put Pepper on your food, More, more, more, Too Much!

In the late 50s thru till 1974, my Uncle had the predecessor of your engine, a 1955 25 hp. Same displacement, peak HP at 500 rpm less, lower compression, some port timing differences, a smaller carb and no fuel saver linkage. My dad had the successor to your engine a 57 35hp, slightly more displacement, bigger carb.

I saw your videos on the lake, it looked like it was running pretty good at speed. Love the old motors, they sure beat the boring stuff made today

Love your comment about dremmeling lol. Do you know how I can look up part #'s for this motor? I've tried a few websites but they don't have it listed. I would like to look up the cam plate that is supposed to go with this motor to see if that screw hole is supposed to be round or slotted. Just has me curious now.

I want this engine working again SO BADLY! I re-watched my boat on the lake videos too and I'll tell ya, I was absolutely bursting with pride when I got to show it off to my two brothers (on board in the video as we took my nephew tubing).That was our family boat I was restored, bought by my dad the day mom went into labor with me. The original motor was shot when I pulled the boat out of storage and I found this old motor one for sale. Knew ZERO about motors, learned everything from this forum and YouTube. It's been a journey of love and patience. I want to see the old girl zip around that lake again. I know she can, but sadly she just has me as her mechanic.