How bad of an idea is this for OB support while trailering?

[62Scout]

Force 85. Trailer is low, and motor hangs low enough that if the T&T hydraulics fail, the skeg is absolutely going to smack the pavement.

The trailer doesn't have a cross member far enough back for a transom saver (and I'm not convinced they will actually save anything anyways), so I drilled a pair of aluminum angles to fit between where the mechanical OB lock used to be and the fixed trim holes on the motor mounting brackets, one on each side (top has two holes because I can't read a tape measure correctly the first time...)

Feels much more solid, and I'm not all that concerned about the inconvenience of pulling a few bolts at the ramp...still better than having to find another lower unit, lol.

 

[airshot]

Been a boater for well over 60 years and have never had a power trim fail ! I do maintain my stuff on a regular basis. If something is not correct it gets fixed properly, no hack jobs. With that said, do you have any leaks or issues with the trim system ? Is your transom solid ? I have saw far more issues with bad transoms than a power trim failure. On my Mercy outboard, once the tilt is set to my trailer position, you can't move it no matter how hard you try, even my 300 lb neighbor can't make it move. Without power tilt, then I would be concerned with a support !!

 

[62Scout]

The last tilt system that was on it failed...on the water. Wasn't exactly fun trying to find something nearby to hold the motor up. I went nearly 20 years without having a tire failure on the road, because as long as you keep up on maintenance and don't run old tires, it won't be a problem, right? Even stopped carrying a spare because it was too much hassle getting a 40" in and out of the truck. Besides, I have AAA road service....

Until I had a flat on a 2 day old tire, deep in to the Navajo resevation, midnight and miles away from any cell service.....

The current tilt system is good, but I figure having some extra insurance doesn't hurt when the alternative is a rather expensive fix...

 

[alldodge]

I don't see a issue with your setup and understand your thoughts.

Same thing goes along with never work on any hydraulics without blocking it. Hydraulics can and do fail without warning, many have died thinking otherwise

 

[racerone]

Local industrial supply might have some pins.----No need for tools to install / remove them.

 

[JimS123]

Good job.

Your failure issue might be a on-in-a-million event. As an Engineer with 45 years of experience, and required to make every system fail-safe, I believe you are on the right track.

 

[cyclops222]

I tilt all OB motors almost ALL the way up for any road traveling. I stop the motor, when the power head is right over the transom. All road shocks are straight down into the transom. No cords or other stuff is needed.

 

[dingbat]

Sounds like you need a scag saver, not a transom saver

In that case, a “ram support block” would work well, but a 2x4 wedged between the tilt ram and motor would suffice w/o the need for tools

 

[62Scout]

Sounds like you need a scag saver, not a transom saver

In that case, a “ram support block” would work well, but a 2x4 wedged between the tilt ram and motor would suffice w/o the need for tools

So the prevailing logic is "remove the emergency brake, install beefy bumper to handle hitting another car in the event your service brakes fail"?

I mean I'm all ears as to why attempting to avoid the damage in the first place rather than adding armor is a bad idea, but "not needing tools" seems like a lousy justification for risking breaking a gear case apart.

I always have tool sets with me anyways, and if it really came down to it, a wing nut and wing bolt solves that just as easily.

 

[racerone]

There are many simple pins available to use on what was pictured in post #1----no tools required.

 

[Scott Danforth]

could always use a motor de-flopenizer (old iboats term)

 

[briangcc]

Gee...on our first outboard, my dad used a shoe string to tie a small wooden block(had a groove cut into it for the shoe string) between the outboard and bracket. Lowered the motor onto it and away we went. Incredibly simple to install/remove...and cheap!

On the Force I had, which was replaced with the Honda, I'm pretty sure there was a trailering finger that once the motor was tilted up, you'd flop it down and then lower the motor onto it. Worked for all the years I owned the Bayliner.

Never had the hydraulics fail on either I/O.

 

[dingbat]

So the prevailing logic is "remove the emergency brake, install beefy bumper to handle hitting another car in the event your service brakes fail"?

I mean I'm all ears as to why attempting to avoid the damage in the first place rather than adding armor is a bad idea, but "not needing tools" seems like a lousy justification for risking breaking a gear case apart.

I always have tool sets with me anyways, and if it really came down to it, a wing nut and wing bolt solves that just as easily.

Wow.....such a violate response to the mere suggestion there is a "no drill, no tool" solution to the problem.........lol

Not sure how slipping a block of wood or PVC (with slot) around the extended tilt cylinder, then lowering the drive to hold the block in place is "adding armour", but OK.

 

[62Scout]

Did you already forget that you recommended a skeg saver?

 

[rolmops]

If it is only to stop a faulty hydraulic system from dumping the outboard on the road, it is fine. Just don't think for one moment that it will act as a transom saver. The only problem I can see is the installing and removing or forgetting that its on there.

 

[Scott Danforth]

The only problem I can see is the installing and removing or forgetting that its on there.

Just like a motor de-flopenizer (AKA transom saver).

 

[62Scout]

Fine...I'm a complete moron for even thinking about doing something that involves a single wrench. I guess I'm also a moron for using a wrench on the threaded drain plug, and I should have just been finger tightening it all this time. Or better yet, using the rubber plug instead with the pull tab that can be easily ripped out of the hull.

I probably should just go burn down the boat instead, because clearly I have no business even near a boat with these crazy thoughts.

Sorry I asked....

 

[JimS123]

Fine...I'm a complete moron for even thinking about doing something that involves a single wrench. I guess I'm also a moron for using a wrench on the threaded drain plug, and I should have just been finger tightening it all this time. Or better yet, using the rubber plug instead with the pull tab that can be easily ripped out of the hull.

I probably should just go burn down the boat instead, because clearly I have no business even near a boat with these crazy thoughts.

Sorry I asked....

Don't get that way. What you did was an innovative approach to ensure safety. The reason we have accidents are because people don't THINK.

The negative comments are from people that simply hope for the best.

As my buddy would say: "Ahh, its gonna be OK". But then when a catastrophe happens, the last word is: "Well, I didn't think....".

 

[racerone]

Why did you ask , when you are set in ---" my way is best "----I would say a quick method with pins ( no tools ) is an improvement.

 

[JimS123]

isists ?