Help with my 68.... Starts but doesn't stay running...

kw32

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Aug 30, 2012
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Seems like a fuel issue... It pops off, then dies and gurggles out the fuel overflow hose... I recently converted to automotive type ignition. I don't think it has anything to do with it. It didn't run at all with the cdi. I did omit the temp sensor, and the vacuum switch when I wired everything... Not sure about that either. I am of the mindset to keep things simple...
 

boobie

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Re: Help with my 68.... Starts but doesn't stay running...

Got a model # ??
 

kw32

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Re: Help with my 68.... Starts but doesn't stay running...

55872R, J01770 are the numbers on the plug on the engine
 

boobie

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Re: Help with my 68.... Starts but doesn't stay running...

If that was the over heat temp sender, you better leave that on. The vacuum switch keeps the g/c in neutral until the flywheel stops rotating. Did you have the mtr running with the auto ign system?? What fuel over flow hose are you talking about??
 

sean mathews

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Sep 19, 2012
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Re: Help with my 68.... Starts but doesn't stay running...

i also recently converted a motor to automotive ignition. mine wouldnt run without a ballast resistor. i also had to change the points gap to acheive full rpm. its a simple but tricky conversion. let me now if ya got any ? i've got mine running better than it ever did
 

kw32

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Re: Help with my 68.... Starts but doesn't stay running...

I had it running good on earmuffs when I first converted it, but had different luck on the river. I did install a ballast resistor and a condensor. In my case I replaced all the wiring to the points because they were all junk, every wire on the the engine was junk. The fuel hose comes out the bottom of the intake? probably went to whatever cover was bolted to the carbs (which wasn't on the motor when I got it ) I did have an issue with not having reverse also, but think I have that corrected, wouldn't stay running long enough to be sure. It seemed to pop out of forward when I gave it throttle. So I pulled the lower unit and of course it had heavy gear lube in it, along with water that seemed to have gotten in thru the solenoid cover which was loose. I replaced the wiring from the switches to the solenoids also. I hope I covered everything... If I had hair I'd be pulling it out with this thing! My 58 was loud, way under powered for my boat but it was easy to work on!
 

kw32

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Re: Help with my 68.... Starts but doesn't stay running...

YAY thanks sean... Runs good now!! But Bitter sweet.... Now I have reverse and nuetral.... But no forward.... It's funny that for 30 bucks you can eliminate that bs cdi and more people arent talking about it. I did open up the points gap like you suggested. Now if I can get forward to work.... Could I have the blocking diode wired backwards?? I didnt change the way it was wired to the ignition switch, but replaced the wire to the shift switches. I even unplugged the wires to the shift solenoids and still no forward. Does the engine need to be turning faster then by hand to get it to engage? From everything I read it should be in forward all the time when no voltage is being supplied to either solenoid.
 

sean mathews

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Sep 19, 2012
Messages
29
Re: Help with my 68.... Starts but doesn't stay running...

ya got me on that one other than oil changes and impellers my electric shift has worked fine. i hear it is a really bad deal having gear lube down there, try rinsing system out with something like diesel. could just be risidual 90 weight gumming things up
good luck
 
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