help lower unit shift screw!

[Boat-ryder]

Got water intrusion in the lower unit so I figured before ordering complete seal kit I would replace all fill plug seals and also the clutch dog screw o-ring. Well after taking the screw out the clutch dog fell down. After about an hour of playing around with the shift rod I got screw back in. But the shift rod still moves up and down freely and it won't shift in or out of gears. Right now its stuck in forward. Playing with prop and shift rod has no effect and I am positive the screw is back in. What could of happened? Thanks

 

[pnwboat]

You have to pull the prop shaft, and reverse gear out to get it back in.

 

[Boat-ryder]

You have to pull the prop shaft, and reverse gear out to get it back in.

Can you explain a little more? What happened when I pulled it out?

 

[pnwboat]

The pin goes through the shifting fork. The shifting fork pivots and is held in place on the pin. Once you remove the pin, the shifting fork falls out of place and is no longer functional.

You can put the pin back into place, but since it no longer goes through the shifting fork, the shifting fork just kind of flops around on the end of the shifting rod and doesn't do anything.

There's also a chance that the shifting yoke may have fallen off of the clutch dog pin. The shifting fork holds it in place.

That's why you have to take it apart to get it all back together. Not the best design, but it works.

 

[Boat-ryder]

Ah thanks for the response. Any thing have to be replaced when pulling prop shaft other than the 2 outer seals? Also will all gears stay together on shaft when pulled out? Im a mechanic but not an outboard mechanic just wondering if I'm going to need a manual in order to remove and install the shaft after I realign the clutch dog.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The manual will help or a parts diagram would help too.

​Try not to remove the top plate as the re-sealing can be tough.

You said water intrusion. Where??

Do a pressure test before you take it all apart.
That way you can do the right repair as you work.

 

[pnwboat]

There is a large "O" ring seal around the prop shaft bearing carrier. The gears just sit on the shaft and slide right off. Attached below is a diagram of the shifting mechanism. The diagram is illustrated with the front of the lower unit pointing to the left.

The "L" shaped shift coupler (shift fork) has a hole where the pivot bolt goes through. First line up the hole in the shift coupler with the hole in the lower unit and insert the pivot bolt. Tighten up the bolt and make sure the small "O" ring that seals the bolt is in place. The illustration shows the shift coupler positioned with the shift rod pushed down for re-assembly. It must be in this position so the jaws will engage the shift yoke post or pins. The shift yoke is horse shoe shaped with an open end. The open end must be pointed down as it sits on a groove on the shift arm. I use a dab of grease to hold the shift yoke on the shift arm to keep it from turning and falling off. Push the propeller shaft assy. forwards until the shift yoke engages the slots or jaws in the shift coupler. Insert the reverse gear onto the shaft to kind of hold the propeller shaft centered. Hold the propeller shaft in and pull up on the shift shaft. It should shift into reverse and forward. You might have to insert the bearing carrier assy. too to get a better feel.



Here is a picture of the shift yoke that sits on the shift arm.



Good luck. Feel free to ask any questions if you run into any problems.

 

[Boat-ryder]

Thanks again for the response. I bought a seal kit before all this happened and it should be in Wednesday. I understand most of what you explained and it should get the rest once its in my hands. Will definitely repost if I have any probs.

 

[Boat-ryder]

The manual will help or a parts diagram would help too.

​Try not to remove the top plate as the re-sealing can be tough.

You said water intrusion. Where??

Do a pressure test before you take it all apart.
That way you can do the right repair as you work.

What do you mean by top plate?

 

[Boat-ryder]

OK got a question already. Can't remove prop shaft. Prop is off and I'm looking at the bearing carrier nut which is marked to show it has reverse threads. I'm guessing there is a special tool for this? Can anyone tell me what tool this is and where to get one? Also are there any other special tools needed to complete this job? Thanks

 

[pnwboat]

Yes there is a special tool to remove the bearing carrier nut. I don't think that it is reverse threads though.....at least I've never run across one with reverse threads. I just made a tool myself to remove the nut.

 

[Boat-ryder]

Yes there is a special tool to remove the bearing carrier nut. I don't think that it is reverse threads though.....at least I've never run across one with reverse threads. I just made a tool myself to remove the nut.

I thought about coin that but If I can get a tool quicker ilk buy it. I even consider breaking the but into pieces and just replacing since I think it is guna be hard to remove even with tool. One I get this but off will I need any kind of puller or will the shaft assy come out easy?

 

[pnwboat]

The bearing carrier should come out with little effort. There may be some corrosion that prevents it from coming out, but you don't need a special tool or anything like that. The "O" ring around the carrier assy, is the only thing that seals the assy, so it's not that hard. Just pull it out as evenly as possible.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The 'nut can be cut out but your gonna need a tool to reinstall it and torque it to specs.
It also cost about $40

FT 11275 part # for the tool.
They have some listed on e-bay but measure the nut so you get the right size.

​I've never had a carrier fall out.
You need a puller with long arms.

 

[Boat-ryder]

The 'nut can be cut out but your gonna need a tool to reinstall it and torque it to specs.
It also cost about $40

FT 11275 part # for the tool.
They have some listed on e-bay but measure the nut so you get the right size.

​I've never had a carrier fall out.
You need a puller with long arms.

Having trouble finding the tool online. Is there a certain name brand? Or would you mind giving me a kink? Only one I found shows for a mercury and doesn't list its size

 

[pnwboat]

It's not something that is very common. I made my own tool from a piece of pipe that was the correct diameter.....can't remember the exact diameter off hand. Cut 4 notches in it with a hacksaw to form 4 tangs that stick out and it works great.

 

[Boat-ryder]

It's not something that is very common. I made my own tool from a piece of pipe that was the correct diameter.....can't remember the exact diameter off hand. Cut 4 notches in it with a hacksaw to form 4 tangs that stick out and it works great.

How did you make the opposite end? The part a bar or wrench would hook onto

 

[roscoe]

here

 

[pnwboat]

Got a cheap large Harbor Freight 1/2" drive impact socket that fit pretty close to the inside diameter of the pipe and brazed it. Doesn't have to be a perfect fit, I think I had to grind the socket down a bit to get it in.

 

[Boat-ryder]

Got a cheap large Harbor Freight 1/2" drive impact socket that fit pretty close to the inside diameter of the pipe and brazed it. Doesn't have to be a perfect fit, I think I had to grind the socket down a bit to get it in.

Any chance you could get me the measurement on that pipe? Im pretty sure its 3 1/4 but it's hard to be exact with the prop shaft in the way. No hurry just whenever you get a chance.