Help getting the Henry O project on the water

[Muletrain9]

Have had many boats and a good bit of experience working on boats. So I saw an ad, and to be honest, I just bought it pretty much for the trailer. A 1985 Henry O Challenger with what appears to be a 1989 Johnson 70 VRO. The thing was covered in algae and dirt, the lower unit was in the boat and it looked it's age. But for 650.00 I figured at worst I'd have a slightly over priced trailer. The trailer was in surprisingly good condition.

Got it home and power washed it. Not too bad. I already have a bigger boat so I figured I'd see what's going on with the motor, do some cosmetics with the hull and see what happens. I do a lot of trout fishing so a small creek boat would be great.

So here is the plan....the hull looks solid except for a soft spot behind where the captains chair used to be. When removed, the 3 holes to attach were left open. Ill attach pics. I am trying to keep this project to an absolute minimum, funds aren't tight, im just curious to see how cheaply I can get out in it while keeping everything safe.

So my questions are:
1- they marketed this boat as unsinkable along the lines of an economy whaler. Does anyone know of its construction? Wood srtingers? Bear in mind this is a 1985, so it was manufactured by McKee before the sale.
2- can I just cut a hole in the soft spot and investigate? I have decent fiberglass skills and am a carpenter by trade. I have all the tools I could possibly need.
3- should I disable the vro and mix myself? Hold....I don't even know if the darn thing will turn over yet!
I've attached some pics for entertainment. Some when I got it home, others after washing. Looking foreward to getting this thing going, meeting some new friends and wasting my hard earned money!

 

[kcassells]

Some pretty interesting history to this boat and mfg. Similar to Boston Whaler. The draw back with the entire foam double hull construction is when there is a penetration/leak into the hull the water saturates all of the foam of the boat. I don't believe you can separate the cap to remove the saturated foam.
Maybe the other guys with whalers have some experience to chime in.

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HENRY O Boats compared To Boston Whaler Boats - Moderated Discussion Areas

 

[Scott Danforth]

Built like a whaler means foam sandwich hull (not worth repairing)

Soft means something is rotten (near impossible to fix on a sandwich hull)

if the VRO works, use it

 

[kcassells]

Built like a whaler means foam sandwich hull (not worth repairing)

Soft means something is rotten (near impossible to fix on a sandwich hull)

if the VRO works, use it

Thats what I was trying to say Scott.

 

[zool]

Heres a video of what ur probably looking at for the deck construction.

heres a link to drain it if its water logged

https://bostonwhaler.infozing.com/removing-water-from-a-boston-whaler-hull-foam-waterlogged/

 

[Muletrain9]

So if I am understanding this right (with just some research), this boat is basically a plywood floor sandwiched in fiberglass with structural fiberglass underneath that would create the cavities for all the foam? So if water were to penetrate it, aside from the foam being soaked with water, the only rot it would have would be on the floor? In other words, the only wood in this boat is on the deck and topside gunwales for things like cleats.

Just trying to understand how thus system works before I decide what my next step will be. Thank you all for your responses so far.

On a side note, im pretty new here, so is this forum strictly for hull restoration, or can I post progress with the motor here also?

 

[Scott Danforth]

So if I am understanding this right (with just some research), this boat is basically a plywood floor sandwiched in fiberglass with structural fiberglass underneath that would create the cavities for all the foam? So if water were to penetrate it, aside from the foam being soaked with water, the only rot it would have would be on the floor? In other words, the only wood in this boat is on the deck and topside gunwales for things like cleats.

Just trying to understand how thus system works before I decide what my next step will be. Thank you all for your responses so far.

On a side note, im pretty new here, so is this forum strictly for hull restoration, or can I post progress with the motor here also?

Whalers do not have much if any wood other than transom

Gunwale reinforcement is either core or aluminum plates

Not sure how your boat is made

Motor work in the appropriate motor forum on Iboats

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I had an ‘89 Johnson 90hp with VRO. It was very easy to remove that massive pump and replumb. A Johnson impulse pump from the same year(s) will bolt right on to the block since these motors came with or without VRO from the factory. A motor that old I would definitely get rid of the VRO and premix. I did on mine and never looked back.

 

[Muletrain9]

Thank you to all the replyers.

This is obviously a project where if it's a total loss, im not that upset. Is the general consulting to open er up and explore, or run her till I can't anymore? Assuming the absence of wood, there is nothing to rot, so I just have a real heavy boat. Is this a viable option? Of course I understand this is just advice and nobody is held liable for their opinions or guidance.

 

[zool]

I would just take a circular saw set about 1/2 inch in depth and cut out the deck, leaving a 2 inch lip along the sides, then u will know what you're dealing with. Worst that can happen is you have to dig out all the foam. You can run a few stringers/bulkheads and repour new foam.

support it on a cradle cuz the foam is structural in those tubs.