Have problem w/ my rebuild.

[FreeBeeTony]

I had the machine shop install what I thought to be Beehive springs when I was in the throws of this re-build. He knew what cam I was running. Never checked for spring bind........will do so in the near future.
Assuming I do find an issue w/ the springs....can I modify the heads and install the correct springs myself? And change to screw-in studs? Might be a nice winter project!

 

[Scott Danforth]

you can cut them and machine them with a drill press and the proper cutters/taps, etc. however to buy all the cutters would be more expensive than having your machine shop do the work.

all you need to swap the springs is a spring compressor. there are about 4 different types of spring compressors that I know of. I own 2 types, one big c-clamp style (to change with the head off) and the screw type for changing springs on the head with the head installed.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Looks like the cutter and springs would be ~$200.........

 

[Bt Doctur]

The next question is how will you measure them and cut the depth correctly.?

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Another tool I imagine?

 

[scoflaw]

How did you remove the glitter from the blown dizzy gear ?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Looks like the cutter and springs would be ~$200.........

cheaper for the machine shop to do it.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Saw a couple of videos on YouTube re: measuring installed height of the springs.
There's more to valve springs than meets the eye!

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Just got finished pricing out the tools and parts to upgrade my heads w/ dual springs and screw-in studs......just under $500. And I will know what I have and learn some in the process.
May try to get some machine shop prices but still leaning toward another winter project........some friends think I should switch to an OB!!

 

[achris]

......some friends think I should switch to an OB!!

And then be under the OB manufacturer's thumb for the rest of its days.... At least with an I/O you can second-source (genuine GM parts) the engine parts...

Chris.........

 

[Lou C]

Yep I've thought that one backwards and forwards, because here many people slip or moor boats in salt water (towing around here is a major pain) and OBs do have their attraction but the parts prices are out of sight. I think they pick #s out of thin air, there is nothing as simple and easy to maintain as a good Chevy small block. If you can deal with an outdrive in salt water (I've done it, they don't spontaneously self destruct as OB fans and IB fans would have you think) they just require more time spent on maintenance.

As far as the valve spring issue, that's a tough one. Buy the tools and learn yourself (a good thing in many ways) but then if something does go wrong, you are the one figuring it out again, vs having the machine shop do it (not learning as much, but not worrying as much either). The conundrum of all backyard mechanics!

 

[achris]

.... Buy the tools and learn yourself (a good thing in many ways) but then if something does go wrong, you are the one figuring it out again, vs having the machine shop do it (not learning as much, but not worrying as much either). The conundrum of all backyard mechanics!

I'm the 'think and ponder' type... Love 'logicing out' problems. Have a curly one with my car right now. A 'harmonic' type vibration at about 55mph. If I de-clutch it goes away, but not completely. If I change gear, (different engine revs) it doesn't follow the revs. If the engine is cool, it comes in earlier... Nothing makes sense...

Chris......

 

[Scott Danforth]

Just got finished pricing out the tools and parts to upgrade my heads w/ dual springs and screw-in studs......just under $500. And I will know what I have and learn some in the process.
May try to get some machine shop prices but still leaning toward another winter project........some friends think I should switch to an OB!!

lets see.....$500 for the tools for a chance to mess up the heads or pay $125 to have the heads done on the outside and they are perfect and all you have to do is assemble them. pay the people that do this dozens of times a day, dont attempt to do it yourself. there are plenty of things to do over the winter like pulling the drive for inspection, spending the other $375 on something else, etc..

 

[FreeBeeTony]

The $500 included parts AND tools!

 

[GA_Boater]

How much for the parts?

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Just getting back to this...........been working on the house!!
Parts are ~$245; tools ~$217.
Parts include springs/retainers/keepers/seals/studs; tools include seat/guide cutter w/ arbor and rocker boss cutter.
The only thing I left out was the tap for the studs.
Still need to check for coil bind before I do anything!

After I post the results of the coil bind test I plan on starting a new thread for Vortec Head Modifications if I change the springs...any thoughts on starting a new thread?

 

[achris]

...any thoughts on starting a new thread?

Click on the 'New topic' button at the top right of the list topics. You'll be presented with a new topic page where you can enter a title and text. Please don't forget model and serial number of what you're working on.

Chris... :lol:

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Chris, I know how to start a new thread..........was looking on opinions if I should start a new one or continue this one.......

 

[Lou C]

Hey Tony,
Just wondering if you considered going back to SK Speed to get their opinion on the best way to approach this issue? They knew what cam you installed, correct? To me it gets very confusing despite the inherent simplicity of the GM small block once we start changing one thing, it causes a number of other changes to be necessary. That's why I didn't go with Vortec heads when I re-did my '88 pre vortec as much as I wanted to. It would have been easier to find certain parts (ie intake manifolds) and would have been nice to pick up 20 hp. But just could not get the right information to make sure I would not have issues so stuck with the standard heads....

 

[FreeBeeTony]

He knew what cam I was installing and gave me a deal on springs he had and said he saved me some $$$.
I'll decide what kind of a "deal" he gave me after I check for the coil bind.