Hard Start 15 hp

Spriging

Cadet
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Apr 9, 2021
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I have a 1991,15hp pull cord. First thing on morning to hard-start! it will only start if I squirt gas into carburetor with choke out. I have replaced fuel pump, spark-plugs, and rebuilt carburetor,and it still will only start with squirt of gas!! Help Now What!!!!! Once engine starts it runs great.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Fairly common for folks to install the choke knob upside down.----So remove silencer cover.---Pull choke out and verify that choke is CLOSED and stays closed when you pull the starter cord.
 

Spriging

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Apr 9, 2021
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Fairly common for folks to install the choke knob upside down.----So remove silencer cover.---Pull choke out and verify that choke is CLOSED and stays closed when you pull the starter cord.
Choke was in right!
 

racerone

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Motor should fire right up then.----Trouble shooting required on your part.----Are you advancing throttle to the neutral stop or going by the " iffy " marking on the tiller handle ?
 

Spriging

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Apr 9, 2021
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I am not sure were neutral stop is on throttle. I presume its at the point that you can shift forward and or reverse??? That is the point I try to start motor with choke out when cold starting.
 

racerone

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Turn handle all the way to bump up against neutral stop.-----Remove cover and look for it.-------Ignore iffy marking on the throttle grip.
 

oldboat1

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With the motor in neutral, twist the grip clockwise as far as it will go. That's the neutral stop. (In gear, the grip will twist all the way to WOT.)

To clean the carb, you should remove all metal parts except linkages (throttle plate linkage, etc.) and soak them in solvent. If you have a plastic carb top take it off. After soaking for a couple of hours, clean every opening you can find with fine wire followed by carb spray, using the plastic wand.

Leave lead shots in place. Remove the mixture needle at the top and clean that orifice. Also clean the high speed orifice in the bottom of the bowl in the plastic nozzle well -- make sure to install the nozzle well gasket under the well. The initial setting for the low speed needle should be 1 1/2 turns open from lightly closed. Motor should start -- fine tune from there. Run and tune it initially in a barrel with water about half way up the leg (not on muffs).
 
Last edited:

Spriging

Cadet
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Apr 9, 2021
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Thanks carb was cleaned with ultra sound tank and was then rebuilt and was rebuilt using all steps you recommended. still would not cold start I have also just replaced fuel connection with check vale to motor. Will try cold start early tomorrow morning. wish me luck .
 

oldboat1

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No luck involved here. You are telling us that all was done correctly and it should run -- but it's not.
 

Spriging

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Apr 9, 2021
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I didn’t try to call start this morning and it will not start. I removed airhorn from carburetor and noticed there was fuel leaking from the front at chalk flapper also appear to be fuel leaking out of screen vent on lower side of carburetor. What I don’t understand is if I squirt fuel into the airhorn what’s a choke pulled out it will fire on the first or second pull. This has been a frustrating journey. Now what
 

Spriging

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What I meant to say as I tried a cool start this morning and it would not start the rest of previous message is complete
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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I have a 6 H.P. 'Rude that I had the same identical problem with. Was hard to start but ran great after it started. Tried everything, even a total rebuild. Had the same issue after wards. Turned out that the choke was not staying closed 100% when I pulled the knob out. Found that when I let go of the knob, it was going back in just a tad, the choke plate was opening just a wee bit, but enough to make it hard to start. I ended up just putting a pin in the choke knob to hold it into place (all the way out) when I pulled the starting cord. (I first tried to adjust the choke linkage to accomplish this, but that did not do it). Once the motor starts, I pull the pin out of the choke handle and push the handle in opening the choke. Not that tough of a job to put the pin in & out, & I have it tethered to the motor so I do not lose it. Works great to solve the hard to start problem. Once it starts, it is good for the rest of the day.
 

ahicks

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Sep 16, 2013
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Clearly you've been through a bunch with this. You say the choke is closing, but you have yet to confirm that the choke is COMPLETELY closed, as in choke butterfly sealed to throttle bore all of the way around.

Pumping the primer bulb to confirm carb is full for this first start?
 

Crosbyman

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Nov 5, 2006
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5,446
I have a 6 H.P. 'Rude that I had the same identical problem with. Was hard to start but ran great after it started. Tried everything, even a total rebuild. Had the same issue after wards. Turned out that the choke was not staying closed 100% when I pulled the knob out. Found that when I let go of the knob, it was going back in just a tad, the choke plate was opening just a wee bit, but enough to make it hard to start. I ended up just putting a pin in the choke knob to hold it into place (all the way out) when I pulled the starting cord. (I first tried to adjust the choke linkage to accomplish this, but that did not do it). Once the motor starts, I pull the pin out of the choke handle and push the handle in opening the choke. Not that tough of a job to put the pin in & out, & I have it tethered to the motor so I do not lose it. Works great to solve the hard to start problem. Once it starts, it is good for the rest of the day.
choke linkage doing their job ??? do a visual has suggested
 

Spriging

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Apr 9, 2021
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24
Clearly you've been through a bunch with this. You say the choke is closing, but you have yet to confirm that the choke is COMPLETELY closed, as in choke butterfly sealed to throttle bore all of the way around.

Pumping the primer bulb to confirm carb is full for this first start?
I tried this and it started right up! Will try it tomorrow morning for acid test. Thanks!!!!
 

Spriging

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Apr 9, 2021
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I tried this and it started right up! Will try it tomorrow morning for acid test. Thanks!!!!
 
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