Happiest Day of Ownership !!!

tpenfield

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Quick Update:

I am getting closer to launching as I had a few 'banner days' of fix-its and boat prep (and tow vehicle prep)

Still chasing a few demons . . .

Trim Sender - Starboard outdrive. The new (Smartcraft, 3-wire) senders are not serviceable (at least that I could tell) vs. the old (analog) style were. So, I may have to bite the wallet and get a new sender ($125 :rolleyes: ) . . . For now, the starboard outdrive seems to follow along the port outdrive nicely when trimming and tilting. So, I'll leave it alone for now and think about next steps. I am not sure if the trim/tilt angle on the SmartCraft plays into engine performance or anything like that. I'm also concerned that it is not obvious as to how to test the trim gauge itself to further isolate the problem. The gauge is a Faria Digital thingy and the gauges are all daisy chained via a 4 conductor harness.

So, I'm still in a bit of a learning curve, but I'm assuming that the SmartCraft puts all of the gauge data out on a bit stream and each gauge grabs its information (or something like that). Just wondering what happens if/when I put in a new trim sender and the gauge still does not work :unsure:

Second Boarding Ladder - I wanted to get a second boarding ladder installed sooner rather than later, and have come up with a design for a pull-out ladder. I'm awaiting a delivery of some HDPE board to build the 'box that will hold the ladder. I could hace gone with an 'under swim platform' pull-out design, as many boats have, but the design of the swim platform itself would make boarding and usage of the ladder far too difficult. So, I'm working on a design that I hope will use the same type of ladder, but be much more 'ergonomic'.

Tow Vehicle - My most significant achievement on the tow vehicle over the winter was to kill the battery. So, $180 later, that is resolved. My new-2-me truck was not going to pass inspection, because of the parking brake not working. I originally thought it was the 'shoe-in-hat' mechanicals themselves, but later realized it was just the cables were frayed/frozen. Anyway, it is now all new, but these things new seem to never go back together the way the came apart, so the struggle for proper adjustment continues.

Lunar Tide Cycle - My local launch ramp is a bit challenging to say the least, and a generous high tide is best for launching. But . . . as (no) luck would have it, the higher tides for the next week or so are in the late evening/middle of the night. Daytime high times are about a foot lower.

I did check to see what the tide was when I pulled the boat last year (Nov 17, 2021) and it was about 4 feet. The highest tides run around 5.5 feet. I'll take 4+ feet, as launching is easier than retrieving.

I could go to a better ramp, but bringing the boat around (7 miles) in ocean conditions and the first run on a 'new' boat are not a good mix, and Murphy's Law usually has a strong grip on the situation. So, the local ramp it will be.
 
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Lou C

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Sounds like you’re getting there Ted…launched mine on Friday & all went well. Took some time to flush the new trailer brakes I installed last year at our ramp. We have the same thing with tides ramp is shallow so you want high tide….
 

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Lou C

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This time when I painted the outdrive I upgraded to this but still there’s no way I’m laying under a boat scraping bottom paint. Worth paying 450-500 it costs!
 

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tpenfield

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Nice to hear that you are in @Lou C . . .

I'm considering some adjustment to my trailer. The bunks are set exactly to the width of the strakes. But . . . as you may know, the boat never seems to want to retrieve is such a precise fashion, even with the guides. (as you can see in the photos) Starboard side in awkwardly positioned on the edge of the strake and the Port side is positioned beyond the strake.

IMG_3138.JPG
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IMG_3137.JPG

I did move the boat back a few inches to take, but now the front guides and the bow stop need a tweak or 2 . . .

There is only about 1" of play in the bunks to move them outward, and I think I'll try that. It will also have the effect of lowering the boat on the trailer a small amount, which should also be fine.

The front bunks could be a bit closer as the boat rests mostly on the main bunks, once I moved the boat back a few inches.

IMG_3139.JPG

Overall the OEM trailer fit was fine, but my shallow ramp launching, I plan on giving it a few tweaks.
 

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alldodge

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Might change the rear bunks from 2x6 to 6x6 and cut it to the same angle as the hull and low as possible. Move them in slightly inward so it will self center.

My trailer came with outer 2x4 (flat side on the 4) bunks and it was so close to the strake that some times it would cause it to start to pivot. I change them to 2x6 and there is no issue now
 

tpenfield

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I measured the tongue weight, which came out to be OK @ 1,260 lbs +/-.
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IMG_3141.JPG
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When I pulled the boat last fall the tongue weight seemed a bit high, so I moved the boat back about 4" (actually moved the trailer forward 4" while the boat was up on stands).

I'm OK with the 9% and 1,260lbs. I think the truck can certainly deal with that for the short ride to the ramp.
 

Lou C

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little higher is better than too low, if needed you could aways fit air bags to the rear suspension of the truck....
Ted might want to pick up one of these....
Sherline Tongue weight scale.jpg
Sherline tongue weight scale. You can get a dial that goes up to 5,000 lbs for these, I used it to weigh each side of my single axle trailer...got 4650 on the axle & about 420 on the tongue which is why I upgraded to a 2x3 Drop 6000 lb axle & hubs last year. Old one was overloaded just didn't know it. Yet, no failures in 17 years of trailering it!
 

bruceb58

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Sherline scales are awesome. My approximately 6500# boat is at 600#


PXL_20210111_194133652.jpg
 

bruceb58

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I used a regular bathroom scale . . . on a 7:1 lever arm reduction
That works but I have multiple trailers and, especially with my travel trailer, the Sherline is quick and easy. Have also used it on many of my friend's trailers.
 

tpenfield

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It's launched . . . splashed. :cool:
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High tide was around mid-day, so lunch break from the day job included the boat launch.
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boatlaunch1.jpg

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I had to put the truck on fairly deep. so I will probably lower the boat on the trailer so I don't have to go quite so far in.
As you can see (maybe) the ramp is pretty shallow, not much slope
boatlaunch2.jpg
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I tied up at the dock while I drought the trailer back home. Then came back to bring the boat to the mooring
IMG_1111-2022.jpg
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Picking up the mooring pennant is a lot easier with the bowrider. I may not need my mast buoy.
IMG_3164.JPG
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tpenfield

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We took the boat out for a 'shake-down' cruise yesterday.
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shakedowncruise1.jpg
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Definitely a different feel to the boat vs. my Formula. All this drive-by-wire stuff gives you no 'feel' for the controls, so you have to see how the boat reacts to adjustments in steering and throttle.

The Axis Joystick works fairly well, but at this point, I'm better at spinning the boat and docking the 'old fashion way' using the twin engines.

We did go out briefly into the bay, but it was all white caps, so we did not really go anywhere. The boat takes a lot of throttle (3500+ RPM)
to come up on plane (heavy) vs. my Formula (2500 RPM), but once it gets 'out-of-the-hole' it rides nicely.

Interestingly, a few things that were 'broken' have started working . . . :unsure:
  • Fuel Gauge
  • Starboard Trim Gauge - Although the sender is now out of adjustment since I fiddled with it.
  • Starboard Engine Low Voltage Warning
Of course, I'm sure these things will circle back at some point during the season.

I did an initial cleaning of the boat, but more to do. The dog came down to the dock for and inspection of his new ride. :ROFLMAO:
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doggyboat1.jpg
 

Lou C

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Yep looks great, dog looks happy!
We launched my brother's 2020 Chap with the Merc 4.5 200 hp. Got a check engine light. Under warrantee so I guess I don't have to figure this one out. He's a tech guy so I might suggest that he pick up the Merc compatible scanner. Me, I'm still using screwdrivers, feeler gauges, timing lights and dwell meters lol. No check engine lights on mine.
 

Scott Danforth

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The Axis Joystick works fairly well, but at this point, I'm better at spinning the boat and docking the 'old fashion way' using the twin engines.
that is a skill you should hold on too. just like backing up a trailer or truck without a back-up camera.
 

tpenfield

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First real outing in the boat yesterday. The seas were fairly calm and the boat did well.

A few observations and notes. . .

The boat needs 3500-4000 RPM to come up on plane with a fair amount of bow rise until it flattens out. So, typical of a heavy deep V hull.

I need to grow (vertically instead of horizontally) to see better. So I may install a platform at the helm

The radar arch funnels wind into the cockpit while anchored, different than my previous boat (no arch).

Cruising is around 3700 rpm 30 mph

WOT was 5200 RPM and 45 mph. The GPS history shows a maximum speed of 47 mph, so that must have been going downhill :ROFLMAO:

My 'low voltage warning' has returned on the starboard engine, but the volt meter on the starboard battery bank reads 13.5, the same as the other battery banks. I wonder if the warning occurs during cranking :unsure:. Anyway, I'll have to chase that. While on the hard, I had the shore power connected, which kept the batteries in the 14.0 volt range, and the warning was not present.

The starboard trim sender worked for a few moments and then returned to its prior inactive state.

I do like seeing the raw water psi indication on the SmartCraft display, so you know you are getting cooling.

I am getting used to the joy stick which helps in tight docking situations.

The headroom in the cabin/head areas are much better than my previous boat. Except there is no source of natural light in the head, so you have to turn the light on . I may figure out installing a 'solar tube' of some sort.
 
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