Happiest Day of Ownership !!!

[alldodge]

volt meter on the starboard battery bank reads 13.5, the same as the other battery banks.

Assuming while running then its low. Does the boat use a Isolator ?

 

[tpenfield]

Assuming while running then its low. Does the boat use a Isolator ?

I checked the voltage after the ignition is turned on . . . that's when the warning on the Smartcraft comes up. 13.5 volts, just like the other engine.

So maybe I should check the battery connections, etc. I am not use if there is a voltage sensor of some sort, or if it is internal to the ECU.

The 3 battery banks are isolated by the shore power unit

 

[tpenfield]

In other news, the Smartcraft is indicating that the boat gets about 1.25 mpg at cruising speed (30 mph), which is what I was thinking, based on how much throttle is needed.

 

[tpenfield]

I hit a wave a bit on the hard side . . . not terrible, but a decent 'bang'. A piece of the cabin ceiling came crashing down.

It was just held in with a spring latch. Looks like I'll be getting some screws and finish washers to really hold the ceiling panel(s) up.

 

[alldodge]

Bummer, hope that's all the bad news from here on

 

[tpenfield]

I checked the voltage after the ignition is turned on . . . that's when the warning on the Smartcraft comes up. 13.5 volts, just like the other engine.

So maybe I should check the battery connections, etc. I am not use if there is a voltage sensor of some sort, or if it is internal to the ECU.

The 3 battery banks are isolated by the shore power unit

Here is the battery display while the engines are running.
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When I turn on the ignition (before cranking the engine), the batteries are at 13.5 volts per the display at the electrical panel. The low voltage warning comes up. I might need my Diacom software to figure out what is going on with the warning.

No real adverse effect from what I can tell. It is just annoying.

 

[bruceb58]

Here is the battery display while the engines are running.
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View attachment 364096
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When I turn on the ignition (before cranking the engine), the batteries are at 13.5 volts per the display at the electrical panel. The low voltage warning comes up. I might need my Diacom software to figure out what is going on with the warning.

No real adverse effect from what I can tell. It is just annoying.

Unless you have some sort of charger on the batteries, 13.5V is impossible with the engine not running.

 

[tpenfield]

It does seem high for a resting voltage. Analog gauge so maybe not the best indicator

 

[alldodge]

It looks like the motors are running so it should be higher then 12.7. I'm seeing a bit on the low side

 

[tpenfield]

I'll get the resting voltage from the SmartCraft (and perhaps my multi-meter) to compare vs. the analog gauge at the electrical panel.

When I had the boat on shore power (i.e. while on the trailer), the batteries would be a bit higher than resting voltage (which is supposed to be about 12.6 volts) and the warning would not appear when turning on the ignition.

Maybe the same will happen when I hook up my solar panel

In my Internet searching there seems to be a variey of reasons for the low voltage warning . . . battery connections, blown fuse, etc. It involve a bit of chasing.

 

[tpenfield]

Fussing with the VesselView warnings has taken a bit of time (see my "Mercruiser 6.2 ECT" thread). As such I have not made much progress on the other fix-its and getting things dialed in on this boat.

I've joined a FaceBook group for the Cruisers 328/338 and that has helped with some ideas. Here is a quick update on some of the things . . .

Trim Sender (starboard and port)
I've purchased a new trim sender, but just connected it inside the engine bay, not mounted to the gimbal ring, etc. Of course it does not 'work' (show the true position of the outdrive), but it keeps the VesselView happy. I've gone for many a season with little or no functioning trim gauge(s).

My plan for the trim senders, since they are $150/each and may last only a few years in the water, is to make/connect a mechanical cable system to the trim cylinders and have that connected to a lever arm inside the engine bay that 'turns' the trim sender as if it were mounted on the gimbal ring. I figure that if I can keep the sender dry by not having it in the water, it may last a long time.

I did something similar on my previous boat, but those senders were a simple resistance device. These senders (3 wires) are more complicated and I have not been able to figure out what is inside by probing the leads. It seems like a combination of resistors and diodes, but who knows?

Restroom (head) Lighting
As for the restroom . . . which does not have a natural source of light, I have a PIR switch and an extra LED light to add to the mix. So, folks using the rest room will not have to worry about finding the light switch once they close the door and are in total darkness. The is plenty of wiring to tap into, so it should be a few hour job installing everything.

 

[tpenfield]

I may take the boat out of the water in a couple of weeks for some mid-season maintenance. In preparation, I made some tweaks to the trailer bunks to get the boat to sit a little lower, which will make it easier to launch and retrieve. The trailer was set up according to the boat and was a decent fit but not perfect, nor optimized for my launch ramp (which is a very shallow grade).

The bunks were almost out to the 'I' Beams, so I gave them the inch or so remaining. Then I tweaked the forward bunks to (hopefully) support the bow a bit better, and adjusted the stern guides to hopefully get better centering.

We shall see how it goes at the next retrieval

The tow vehicle has decided it needs a new front brake caliper, so that will have to be fixed beforehand.

 

[alldodge]

If not low enough, maybe lower profile tires next
Or maybe if there is room go down a inch or two in diameter

 

[tpenfield]

Season #1 with the new-2-me boat is in the books. I did not get many of the planned 'modifications' done this year, so those things (TV, Microwave, etc.) will be on the list for next year.

Counting the days until the 2023 season starts. It's always a challenge to get the boat ready before June though

 

[Lou C]

Same here there’s always a list of things I want to do if I get through half of them I’m doing well lol. Next spring I should finally fix the rot in the starboard coaming panel and replace the old OMC remote control with the new Teleflex I bought…8-9 years ago!

 

[bruceb58]

Season #1 with the new-2-me boat is in the books. I did not get many of the planned 'modifications' done this year, so those things (TV, Microwave, etc.) will be on the list for next year.
View attachment 372277
Counting the days until the 2023 season starts. It's always a challenge to get the boat ready before June though

Time to sew yourself a boat cover.

 

[nola mike]

Time to sew yourself a boat cover.

I've already got new cover, swap lower onto good upper (suspect bad shift spool), *more* freaking wiring (for fun stuff at least--amp. Oh, and oil pressure switch) on the list. Still waaaay better than this year's list. And I haven't given up hope for one more weekend this season.

 

[bruceb58]

I've already got new cover, swap lower onto good upper (suspect bad shift spool), *more* freaking wiring (for fun stuff at least--amp. Oh, and oil pressure switch) on the list. Still waaaay better than this year's list. And I haven't given up hope for one more weekend this season.

LOL....I did not mean you!

 

[nola mike]

LOL....I did not mean you!

Well, I need one too!

 

[tpenfield]

Guys - Why would I need a boat cover when I already have one?

Albeit it's a custom cover for a Grady 305, but it works ! My brother bought it - used it once - then sold the boat without the cover. I think it originally cost about $2500. I tried to sell it for him, but the best offer I got was $200 !

So, I decided to keep it. Pretty thick canvas . . . heavy . . . All bundled up, it takes 2 people to lift it.