Glasspar Lido Deck Questions

[Captainmycaptain]

Hello all, I have a question regarding restoring a 1959 15' Glasspar "Lido" I've just acquired. I just joined the site and I'm not sure where to post questions. I don't mean to jump on this persons post and take off on my own question but I'm stuck. This is a general question about working with old fiberglass while restoring your boat. I am currently cutting out the old floor as there was a good bit of rot down there. and I want to replace the stringers and transom, whatever else needs replacing. My question is this, do I need to maintain some of the old fiberglass along the edges to bind the old to new. In other words I remove the old flooring but am I suppose to leave 3, 4 or 6" of old fiberglass around the perimeter to help adhere to the new floor? I hope I've described that properly, I am new to this, so please be patient with my stupid questions. Thank you, and I hope someone can help me out with this

 

[GA_Boater]

Howdy.

Moved your post out if an old thread to one of your own. I can't answer your questions since I'm an aluminum boat guy, but someone will be be along.

 

[Davetowz]

Cut the deck back to the hull. Grind well. Tabbing the new deck onto clean hull surface is best. Looking forward to watching the build.

 

[sphelps]

Welcome aboard !
If you are going back with the new floor the same height I would leave a little around the edges for reference on the new stringer height . Then grind back as Dave said for the new tabbing to the hull edges ...
‘As a new member you must adhere to the rules .. So pics ! Or it didn’t happen ! :lol:
:welcome:

 

[Captainmycaptain]

Thank you all for responding, and I will post pics asap. I have one other question regarding replacing the stringers, should they be hardwood?

 

[sphelps]

Just an ext grade plywood will be fine . Not pressure treated ...You want a plywood that’s made with waterproof glue ..

 

[Captainmycaptain]

Here's the project. It was given to me by the original owner, or more accurately his daughter who parked it 20 years ago where it sat until I towed it home. The hull is solid, but I'm tearing out the floor to replace it with high quality materials, as well as the transom and the deck. I want to make it stronger than it's ever been.

 

[Captainmycaptain]

I'm still wondering about the stringers, should they be made os hardwood, like oak or ashe or maybe redwood ? I will definatly use exterior grade plywood for the floor (thank you for that suggestion,) but should the stringers be made of something special?

 

[jbcurt00]

No, not hardwood, for stringers or anything else, as Sam said

Just an ext grade plywood will be fine . Not pressure treated ...You want a plywood that’s made with waterproof glue ..

Stringers, transom and deck all made w plywood.

Dont overthink better then before, stronger or whatever other reason you might be considering using different materials then before. Its likely to simply cost and weigh more....

And unless you use extraordinarily expensive stuff (which can be hard for diyers to find), it'll all eventually succumb to the elements if left uncovered, bow down and/or w the bilge plug in.

So rebuild it and take good care of it after. It'll last and serve you well.


Great resource for transoms, stringers and deck rebuild

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...lamingo-splashed-w-pics?p=5550980#post5550980

 

[sphelps]

The problem with hardwood from my understanding is they are more prone to spitting and do not absorb the resin used as well as plywood . Now if ya got a few more bucks to spend there are composite material out there that will never rot .
Coosa , Seacast and others ..
Cool Glasspar !

 

[kcassells]

Exterior grade plywood. Acx, bcx, cdx. Soaked with resin and all voids filled. More voids will be in some bc and cdx. Acx should be little. I've used bcx with no voids at times.
In addition the plys are stronger than dimensional lumbers. Like Sam says you can pay out the wazoo for marine plys or coosa etc. A lot to decide on but most guys roll with ply.

 

[sphelps]

Just noticed the Tee Nee !
‘The cool factor just went up !

 

[Captainmycaptain]

Just noticed the Tee Nee !
‘The cool factor just went up !

Thanks, is the TeeNee a good thing then? I'm very new to this and I am grateful for all the suggestion you guys are giving me. They will not fall on deaf ears, I'm paying attention. So the hardwood will not absorb the resin and splits more easily than ply, points noted. Would doubling the stringers make them stronger? I guess I'm over thinking it again, I'm not going to reinvent the wheel but I just want it solid and strong. Now when I do the transom, I'm going to double the plywood there, correct?

 

[jbcurt00]

Remember, when you modify 1 part of a system (doubling the stringers in this case) you run the risk of transfering stress and pressure to another part of the system not designed to take more then its intended load.

What benefit do you think doubling them will provide?

The plywood stringer is a part, but once glassed, the plywood is adding smaller portion of carrying the 'weight'. The glass is doing the bulk of it.

Have you looked thru the details at the link I posted earlier?

 

[sphelps]

Yep , the Tee Nee trailers are the sought after type . Yours looks like a little later model year but the tear drop fenders and closed in winch stand are there .. If I’m seeing right it has the metal die cast tee Nee emblem on the winch stand .. If it is , guard it with your life ..LOL!
Mine is a 1958 ..

 

[Captainmycaptain]

Yes the Tee Nee emblem is there on the winch stand. It also apparently has a pin that when pulled allows the trailer to tilt when loading or unloading the boat. That's cool but I don't quite get the reasoning for it. And yes I looked at all the details at the link you posted jbcurt, thank you for that, I guess I just thought that by doubling things like stringers and supports it would be a stronger rebuild, like using 2x material in lieu of 1x material. I did not consider the information you shared about the glass assuming the load bearing stress. Thanks for the education everyone, this is an amazing spot to get assistance and to gain insight, as well as get "schooled" in the art of boat rebuilding. Back to the floor tear out, talk to you guys later.

 

[kcassells]

Couple of ways to get to your deck height.
-Leave a nub from grinding to match the stringers to.
-Leave a few inches off the hull and add a substrate underneath, extended to attach your new deck to. Make sure the wood is intact and not rotten.
-Mark off a line and maintain it.
More than likely it is the original factory deck so you would want to go back to that design height.

 

[Woodonglass]

Exterior grade plywood is stronger and more stable than any hardwood you could use. You could use two layers of 1/2" plywood glued together to yield 1" stringers but that's a bit of overkill. As stated if you install the stringers as recommended by all the guys here on the forum, they will be stronger and last longer than the originals. sphelps KNOWS how to restore these kinds of boats so he can guide you to a GREAT restoration.

 

[sphelps]

Those are some kind words Woody but truthfully all I know is what I picked up along the way with all you guys leading the way .. There’s a lot of good advise here for those that choose to listen .. It’s all fairly simple stuff other than just knowing a few helpful tricks here and there ...

 

[Captainmycaptain]

Hello again, my rebuild has been delayed due to rain, alot of it. The sun is shining and the forecast is good for a few days so I'm going to get back at it. I am halfway through the tear out of the floor and I got the outboard off the transom on a stand so I have a couple more questions. Firstly, is there a proper order for doing things when restoring a boat? I ask because as I tore out the floor by the transom it occurred to me that maybe I should get the transom finished before putting the new floor down, so should one be done before the other? Also I have taken off all the cleats and lights and everything and a couple of the videos I've watched showed someone separating the deck from the hull, the deck being the part of the boat the windshield mounts to, and the hull everything below that. There was a piece of rubber going around the outside of the boat and when that is pulled off it definitely looks like 2 separate components so do I need to separate the two? Next with regard to the transom, after I removed the outboard it became very apparent that the transom was rotted and needs replacing. After watching some videos about transom replacement I'm a little confused about the existing fiberglass.if I was to remove the rotted wood standing on the inside of the boat I could just cut away the glass on the inside of the transom, remove the rot, and then cut in a new transom that would fit against the outside fiberglass and then re resin and fiberglass over the existing shell. Is that what I'm supposed to do? A couple of the videos looked like that was what was being done, in others it looked like there was a 4" tab left from the original glass that was utilized, I'm a little confused about that, and lastly, should I install something up the inside of the hull to screw the new transom to? It looked like the people in the video were screwing the transom to something but there is nothing there in my boat to accomplish that. Thank you for any advice/suggestions