Glassing Stringers - First Time

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,069
Question . . . and maybe you have got it covered, BUT . . .
It looks like the engine mount stringer/box is going to be hollow?

Should be solid down to the hull
 

76SeaRay

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Messages
1,071
Well in the factory design, it was hollow but filled with foam. Only the inside short stringer went to the hull. Where I put the tall stringer on the right in my sketch the original design was floating and wasn't tabbed or bedded to the hull at all.
 

froggy1150

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
846
For what its worth....
All the wood i put in my boat got wrapped in glass on the bench. Layed one side and down the edge, grind off extra, flip and repeat.Except for the deck just got the underside on the bench and layed the top in the boat all at once. Then i bedded wood in. Then came tabbing. There are no 2 pieces of wood touching. I did that so if something got wet and started to rot it would not migrate to the next easily. But it did make it easy to wrap.
 

76SeaRay

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Messages
1,071
I did something similar in that I don't have any wood touching wood that is not sealed between the two pieces. I haven't put the caps on the "engine mount steps" yet so I can add something to make it solid from the cap to hull where the motor mounts actually land if that is needed.

I might have to cut out part of the support board to fit something in there. The caps are two pieces of 3/4 marine plywood laminated together. I would have to use something like a fir 4x4 to fill in the space under the cap or put in a couple of vertical ribs across the space with holes in them to allow the foam to flow through. As it is I will still need to add about 2 inches on top of the cap for the motor mounts to be at the right height and in the middle of the vertical adjustment range.
 
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