getting bolts free...

[rickasbury]

Thought I'd put this in restoration because that's what I feel like I'm doing to my transom assy. I had to remove it to resolve a leak, but, in the process I had to cut the Y pipes off so I could pull whats left through the K hole. The four bolts that hold it in place are in there, just no breaking them and could not get at the bottom two to drill off the heads so saw time....so, now I have the base of the Y pipe off and now have four "studs" sitting there as the bolts have no heads anymore. I have been soaking them in blaster penetrating oil. If I can't get these out then I lose the gimbal ring.,...so I'm looking for sure fire ways to get these out. My first thought was to grab with some vice grips and go to town- but that could end badly. The other thing if I have enough thread would be to get two nuts on there and get them tight against each other so I can put a wrench on them. I know sometimes people weld a nut on there but I'm thinking heating up that steel is not going to help me. Any other good ideas on getting these out??

 

[alldodge]

Welding would work to apply heat, but would not work unless you have a TIG machine. The bolts are stainless steel and not easy to weld. Welding applies heat real fast and that's what I think you need.

If you have an acetylene torch, then I would apply heat to the stud and get it fairly hot, but not so hot to melt the aluminum of the transom assembly. The heat should cause the corrosion or locktite to break loose

 

[Scott Danforth]

mix up 1/4 cup acetone and 1/4 cup ATF. heat the bolts hot with a ocy-acetlene torch. then soak the mixture of acetone/ATF. repeat as needed. The bolts are corroded in place

 

[rickasbury]

crazy thing is there is no visible corrosion. I do not have that kind of heat...will have to see what I can do. I'm sure a shop won't take it on and be responsible for the out come...thx

 

[alldodge]

Suggest getting a MAP gas torch at the hardware store, its fairly hot

 

[rickasbury]

that's the old fashion kind with the 12" or so tank with the screw on valve? I had one but so long since I used it, not sure where it got to....also, I can get a nut on it but not two, not enough left of it sticking out so I guess I'm down to heating it and getting it with the vise grips....anyone got an usable gimbal ring laying around cause I'm starting to think this one won't be....

 

[alldodge]

The green or blue tanks are propane and they get hot but not like MAP. The MAP gas uses a yellow tank

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...00KC/203368730

Edit: don't have to get with push button igniter

 

[rickasbury]

ah...thanks, did not know the difference...what kind of heat we talking? Am I heating the "stud" basically the whole area? I'm guessing I'm not hitting 1000 degrees or the gimbal will be a puddle....did not notice that you own a Rinker also!

 

[alldodge]

IMO you want to heat it as fast as possible so not to heat the surrounding area (aluminum) anymore then necessary, this is the reason I mentioned MAP gas.

What I suggest, is give it some heat on the stud only. Have a small pipe wrench or vise gripes ready. I like a pipe wrench because of the teeth and the more pressure is applied the more the wrench bits in. See if it will turn without damaging the stud.

If it looks like its not going to budge then stop and give it some more heat. Can also smack the top of the stud with a hammer then try again

 

[Scott Danforth]

agree with percussive assistance, however will need to get a penetrating oil in there too.

Even the instructions on PB blaster tells you to hammer on the fastener

 

[rickasbury]

directions? I'm not a girl, I don't read directions!

I have been squirting blaster on it since Saturday....I might keep squirting and wait until Sunday or is a couple of days the max benefit I will get? Replacement is not cheap, I have looked.

 

[chevymaher]

directions? I'm not a girl, I don't read directions!

LOL you owe me a keyboard now i just spit my coffee on mine. That was to funny.

 

[Ned L]

Uhmmm,.... steel or SS stud in aluminum?? You want to heat the aluminum and not the stud. The coefficient of expansion of AL is more than that for steel and SS. You want to heat the AL so it expands away from the stud.

If you heat the stud, I would do that only to try to beak up any corrosion, and don’t try to remove the stud when hot.
Heating the stud and keeping the AL cold will actually make the stud tighter in the hole (until the stud cools).