Gel Coat application

ondarvr

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Re: Gel Coat application

TG<br /><br />It sounds like you want to use gel coat, here's the info. Start with 80 grit and sand the entire surface, fill the defects and sand them down, gel coat won't fill all the imperfections. Use a Binks spray gun with a 66 or 67 tip, the 66 will give a smoother spray job, use the Duratec clear it will help it flow and level. I can't officially recommend Duratec because we don't advise that you mix anything that we don't make and have tested in our lab, but many people use it with good results. The temperature needs to be above 60 and I would recommend it be above 70 for it to cure correctly. Because you will be sanding it down you will need to apply at least 25 mils, if it's got a lot of orange peel it will need to be thicker. You need to apply it in three or four passes of around 7 mils each. Less than that and it won't level and flow, more and you risk getting porosity. Catalyze it at 2% no more, no less, Mix it very well. Don't add a bunch of styrene or acetone, 5% is OK (but still not recommended), more than that and you may run into problems with weathering, cracking and curing. the Duratec will help the surface cure tack free, but you still may need to add wax to get a good surface to sand on, if it's not cured completely it will just gum up the sand paper. NOT ALL gel coats will cure well in this type of application, some will not cure well on the back side no matter what you do. If you get all of this done without any of the gel coat getting hard inside the gun (you only have about 12 minutes or so to use it up) you did a good job.<br /><br /><br />Leave it sit for a few days before you start sanding. Good sand paper is expensive and you will use a bunch of it. If there's a lot of orange peel start with 180 or 220 grit on a DA, if it's somewhat smooth start with 320 or so. After a few days of sanding and some possible respraying of areas that you sanded through, or were too rough to sand down and you needed to fill, you can start using finer sandpaper. Don't go to the very fine papers though it doesn't always help in getting get a better finish, 800 is about all thats needed. You can go finer, but you need to use the correct buffing pads and compounds used in multiple steps to notice a difference. If you decided to use any color other than white, all of these steps, including the spraying, will be more difficult.<br /><br />Because gel coats are not designed or formulated<br />to be used in this way, it will not retain it's color or gloss as well as it would as when it's used in a mold.<br /><br />This will take about a week if you work on it a lot, it will take longer if you don't have a good place to work on it.<br /><br />Now this is what's involved in painting it.<br />Sand it with 320 or so, fill the pits and scratches, spray it with primer to fill the minor imperfections, wait an hour or so depending on temp and type of primer, then lightly sand it down. Clean and tape it off, spray it with a good 2 part PU, pull the tape and go have beer. Let it dry (cure), put it in the water and go fishing. <br /><br />The gel coat method will take me a week or two to complete. With paint, I can do it in less than one day.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Jan 13, 2006
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Re: Gel Coat application

Lots of very valuable information there and i thank all of you. What seems to be apperant is the type of gel-coat used and the curing process, i will need to do a bit more research into what i call the layering process. I have heard and read there are several ways to shoot the gel and what is not clear to me yet is the stages of layering. Such as the first coat letting it harden to a semi tacky finsih then applying another layer with wax or some type hardening agent mixture. This i will get sorted out from the mfg's or suppliers. (getting some conflicting comments on using hardener's vs wax and how to stage the layering)<br /> <br />However on comment intriged me, Because gel coats are not designed or formulated<br />to be used in this way, it will not retain it's color or gloss as well as it would as when it's used in a mold.<br /> <br />This would disuade me from applying a gel coat,need to do some more research on that area.<br /><br />As to the sanding and finishing i have worked with wood for year's and i am quite used to it, i have given my self 3-4 months to do this. And everyone is making the same statement's as to the finishing or sanding procedure. <br /><br /> Why the gel, the boat is 13 years old mechanically it is great shape, it was given to me and i will end up putting a couple of thousand into the project and with that much of a investment and time which is of more value to me, i just dont want to look back and say to my self "if only i had taken some more time i could have had a better finish" As to durablity and the ease of small repairs i have been told gel is more work but quite a bit better.
 

ondarvr

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Re: Gel Coat application

You can just put wax in the final layer of gel coat you put on, but most of time it's all put on at one time, so wax is in all of it.<br /><br />The reason for poor gloss and color retention is that when gel coat is sprayed onto a mold surface there is a very thin layer of resin (from the gel coat)that is up against the mold. When the part is removed from the mold, this thin (very thin)resin rich surface is what's exposed to the elements, so it helps to protect the fillers and pigments. When you sand it, or spray and sand it like you are going to, you end up removing it, so the fillers and pigments are exposed. Plus the fillers and pigments don't polish out as well as just the resin does.<br />Depending on the color and type of gel coat used, it can be more or less of a factor in how good it looks and how long it will last.<br /><br />After saying all this, at 13 years old, this boat shouldn't need to be repainted or gel coated, a few minor repairs and a good buffing should take care of 99% of the problem.<br /><br />What size and type of boat is it.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Gel Coat application

1993 17 ft StarCraft Euroliner 3.0 inboard, Well the motor,sterndrive,steering and electrcal systems were very well maintained the previous owner was a bit of a knuckle head when it came to the appearence of the boat. He was and still is a avid fisherman, For years he has driven down gravel roads going to his secret hot spots which he prepared for in a funny way, put a very heavy bottom paint on to prevent chips from the flying gravel. The paint is on in such a way it really takes away or brakes up( tops white bottoms dark grey :eek: ) the natural lines the boat has and they are really very elgant. So lots of sanding and prep on the bow to remove the pits. And i really dont like the aqua marine stripe it really does nothing for the boat so refinshing is in order. I buffed the top of the boat and could hardly believe how well it cleaned up it was incredible. Hence my respect for gel-coat, never have i seen a finish clean up so well.(and no burning) <br /><br />I guess i just have decided not to go just halfway, i am doing quite a bit of cosmetics,floor's, carpet,upholstry no glass thank god. Being in the automotive indrustry give's me a edge with recon i know quite a few tradesmen who help and guide me thourgh this process. When the project is @ completion i will post the progress and steps along with the final out come. :D However the painting or finshing is something i really enjoy,it can really bring out a design's true soul.
 

ondarvr

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Re: Gel Coat application

Rock blasted gel coat can be tough to fix, lots of sanding. Sand and buff an area on the bow to get a feel for how long it takes, you may be able to remove the chips, it just depends on the thickness of the gel coat in that area. Is the aqua marine stripe bottom paint, or is it a gel coat stripe? You talked about using an airless sprayer, what kind is it.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Gel Coat application

Yes you are quite right about the rock blasting its very pitted over the bottom, most of the pitting occurs on the flat part of the boat. Just after the bow,and its not gel its a bottom paint quite thick id say 7-10 mils, it can be scratched and when this is done it dosn't flake of more of a expoy type of feel. It doesnt go up to the water line, he applied it soley for abrasion.<br /><br /> The striping is or once was a gel,however he shot a urathane over it to dress it up a bit :D how thoughtful. That is the worst of it, the rest is all good. Dunno how he kept the winsheild and the top of the boat so clean there isnt one scratch.<br /><br /> As to the airless we used to use a 433 graco, im not so sure what they use today, i have to rely on a brother there, he's still shooting wood and homes for a living. But im not to sure now if that's the way to go, it has been posted that one need's to clear the lines and cant be done with a solvent,( kinda cool seeing something that can hold up to lacquer thinner) to so maybe going to a HPLV and multple caps is the right way. Undecide there until i get some input from a couple of vendor's <br /><br />The bottom to me was a simple thought,just rough it up a bit, take a filler type appropriate for the job fill it level it sand it. :confused: Am i missing one of those little yet decisive moment's not that that hasnt happened before..... :eek:
 

ondarvr

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Re: Gel Coat application

I have used that type of airless to spray gel coat, BUT, since you are spraying catalyzed gel coat, if there are any delays, problems or plugged tips, you may ruin the unit, the gel coat will harden (in about ten minutes) inside and then you have an anchor. Acetone is used to clean gel coat out of the equipment.<br /><br />Since most of the chips are in the bottom paint and the stripe is painted on, just try sanding them off. If this works you will save months of work and a great deal of money. Sanding and buffing these areas will be much easier than a total respray.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Gel Coat application

Let me see if i understand this process correctly.<br /><br />1. Prep the boat as in roughing out the current finish, prep the sand blasted area (nicks) sand around them,and fill level and finish sand the filling<br /><br />2.Using brand x gel first coat shot with 100% gel mixture allow it to dry to a tacky finish,i was then told to use a 50% duratec/gelcoat mixture agin allow to dry<br /><br />3.Do the last shot and allow to cure.<br /><br />4.I had planned to use laquer thinner to clear the gun, as simple as filling a 1/2 gallon can and shoot out the gelcoat. using acetone would greatly increase my cost's from a quick google search.<br /> <br />5.Here's a bit of a leap,i thought it might take a day or 2 to sand down the finish,this was based on working with the gel on the boat now.<br /><br />What you have brought up gives me two real concerns shooing the shot in 10 mins,can it be done yes,however my skill's are no longer that high ( :eek: are my nerves? :D ) That is a incredibily short time window.<br /><br />And the line clearing now that's expensive if i use a airless and probaly 25' of line.......... :eek: <br /><br />Actually those are game killer's, time for some thought....<br /> :D Apparently duratec may not be the catalyst for this...... :confused:
 

brownies

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Jul 5, 2004
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Re: Gel Coat application

I'm painting my boat with paint. The sanding part of the hull only is going to take 60hrs. (thats actuall working on it). That does not count waiting on primer to dry or standing back looking at it).<br /> 60hrs and 2/3 gallons of epoxy primer, thinner, etc.
 

ondarvr

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Re: Gel Coat application

Duratec is not a catalyst it's a gel coat additive that will make it flow and level better, but may not be as water resistant as straight gel coat, you still need to add catalyst.<br /><br />If the cost of acetone is a concern, then don't even think of painting or gel coating it, you are looking at hundreds of dollars just for the supplies. If you gel coat it, the cost of sand paper and buffing compound will kill you. <br /><br />That's why I'm suggesting just sanding off the ugly stripe, there should be gel coat under it, buff that, or paint it a color you like. On the bottom, sand off the bottom paint and see if there "is" a problem (bad pitting or chipping) with the gel coat. If it's looks good, or there's just minor defects, just buff that too.<br /><br />The reason for the ten minutes is that the gel time of the gel coat will be around 15 minutes in a 100 gram mass. The larger the volume mixed the more heat is developed and the faster it cures, plus that type of sprayer will generate some heat in the pump, this will heat the gel coat a little more, so again it will cure faster.<br /><br />Read brownies "ONLY the Best for your project?"<br /><br />Since it is mechanically sound and the top side looks good, you may want to use the boat this coming season and see if it's the boat you really want. If you don't like boating, or the boat, you just saved a ton of time and money. If you like the boat then do the cosmetic changes, if not sell it and get one you do like. By the way, it won't sell for much, if any, more money after the painting.
 

brownies

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Re: Gel Coat application

Had to run, didn't get to finish that.<br /> I just saw where you intend to sand it in two days. Just thinking that may be a bit optimistic.<br />Only because it sounds as if you are doing this for a quality job. <br />Applying Gelcoat backwards from how it is normally applied is pure torture, but, that's still the "easy part" of a "good" job. <br />The work you do before the last finish coat is what's most important.<br /> (It's the body work, not the paint) is what I'll tell you and most anybody is dat bidness will tell you the same. Just means the prep work has as much to do with your final product as the paint, with, the paint or gelcoat in your case, being the easiest part of the job.<br /><br /> 60hrs of sanding the hull...<br />Starting with a power "block sander" and 80 grit. This roughs up the surface and will find the biggest high and low spots. Anything blattantly obvious gets some filler or ground/sanded down more)<br /> Now spray on thick a coat of two part epoxy primer. When it dries, lightly spatter a coat of most anything thats a different color.<br /> Time for sanding again. This time a long block with 80grit by hand. You will then have sanded through the primer on the high spots and the low spots will still have that spatter coat in them.<br /> Another thick coat of two part epoxy primer. Another spatter coat "guide coat".<br /> Same long block, switch to 220 or close grit. Hopefully, when finished you won't have sanded through in very many places, and those will be small. The low spots will still show, but, they should be small as well. (be great if you found none of either).<br /> Now, one more coat of primer, try to lay it fairly smooth. Another light guide coat also. Use a smaller (hand size) block. Sandpaper will be 360. Use water, rinse constantly, stay flat, don't dig, and move in more of a circular motion (like waxing). <br /> If the previous work was done right, and/or enough times...You should be able to just make that spatter guide coat disapear all over.<br /> When finished, you can apply color over that, OR, you can use a coat of "non sanding sealer", which would need to go on smooth like paint.<br /> Then you can apply your color...then your gelcoat.<br /> <br /> This is where I'd go with a base/clear paint instead of gelcoat.<br /><br /> Either way, The finshed product should then be "straight as an arrow".<br /><br /> I just primered my hull for the second time and I think/HOPE HOPE HOPE I've got most of the waves taken care of. (doubt it, but, there's always a first time...lol)
 

brownies

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Re: Gel Coat application

Only the best?<br /> There is a place for my thoughts on that, and a place for not.<br /> The body work I will do right...spend the money and the time there. BUT, I'll use generic products instead of my preference (PPG).<br /> That way, when I want to change color, IF ever...It will be fairly easy, and cheap at that point.<br /><br /> If you read that post, I make mention of my wife and house carpet. Whats under the carpet is there for good. ONLY THE BEST in flooring. I won't get tired of that, and I won't want to do that again.<br /> That "only the best" thread could easily be taken/viewed wrong.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Gel Coat application

Volumes of great info and insight,@ this point its time for some expermentation.<br /><br /> The sanding time you are refering to is amazing,I cannot speak to fiberglass work or should i say gel-coat but i do understand what you are talking about. It seems you are greatly improving the origanl work done be the mfg.( @60 hours the finish would be glass like i assume or would expect nothing less for that time and energy.<br /><br />I had orignally anticipated 24 hours of filling and sanding,hoping the gel would "Fill" a lot of imperfection's. Time for a small hands on project as suggested eailer.<br /><br /><br /> ;)
 

ondarvr

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Re: Gel Coat application

brownies<br /><br />Don't spend too much time sanding to get it perfect, fiberglass will change it's shape as the temp changes. What you made perfect at 80* yesterday, will be uneven today at 60*, then in August in the sun, if it's a dark color the surface temp may get to 180* and change even more. Boat companies that make high end boats spend a lot of money on special products designed to retain a good surface profile over a long period of time.
 

surlyjoe

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Nov 21, 2005
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Re: Gel Coat application

the multi million dollar boats get refinished with Awlgrip or the likes. it looks great, its tough when applied properly and repairs easily without a trace. gelcoat is a great finish, but isn't practical to use as a topical coating on an entire boat.<br /><br />even for big patches in gelcoat boats we would touch them up with LPU just because matching the color was so much easier and it was harder to detect the repair.
 

brownies

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Re: Gel Coat application

Fiberglass expansion/contraction may be possible, but, not to the point of consideration. As far as materials expanding/contracting between 20 below and 120 degree....I'd think fiberglass would be one of the LEAST warping stuff there is? <br /><br /> The main problem with fiberglass is curing. It shrinks causing wavy imperfections. <br /> I'm sure many companies have this almost figured out, but, for decades...GM had "the" formula...and ONLY GM. (I sure doubt it's still that way though).<br /> Never had any experience with Awlgrip. Just always thought that was for painting the bottoms of boats that sat in the water year round. Just thought it was similar to something you would put on your roof? (looks great from the ground, seals, protects, TOUGHT STUFF....just not all the smooth and glass like up close?)<br /> <br /> Anyway, I'm on the third stage, wet sanding. It better turn out as slick as my fingers are...I have no fingerprints right now....lol. <br />I still have another couple of days of this "wetsanding"...then I will wash it all down with red scotchbrite and spray some generic DP40 on it and a few hours later it will be Black Pearl.<br /> (btw...the term Black Pearl does not mean all that much. It's just what the car manufacturer that uses it calls it. They sure can come up with some odd names for their colors.)
 

brownies

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Re: Gel Coat application

Before I go (which is not soon enough for most people).<br /> All things being equall, the simplest explanation is usually correct.<br /> <br /> We can make a boat that looks like the finish is an inch deep. We can do this in the moulding process. Think of the time/money we can save if we do not have to paint the finished product. That time/money is a tremendous amount saved PER boat by elimination of many added steps in the manufacturing process.<br /> It looks good also, and should last the life expectancy of the boat. We won't say what that is though, because, we will use this as a selling point. <br /> <br /> Simple solution: Factory Gelcoat is easier than painting from a manufacturing standpoint, but, probably not as durable.<br /> I don't think I've seen a mass produced vehicle in gelcoat? I have seen some small companies make cars in gelcoat, but, I have NEVER seen one that looked good after a couple of years...
 

ondarvr

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Re: Gel Coat application

While fiberglass doesn't move as much as some other materials, it does change it's shape, even at lower temperature fluctuations than you may think. ( I'm not talking about shrink from the initail cure). We do testing for high end boat companies and the transportation industry, they are looking very hard for more stabil products. It's not enough movement that most people would notice, but if you are spending that many hours sanding in hopes of getting it as close to perfect as you can, you may be disappointed. There are dissimilar materials used in building boats, glass, resin(s), Putty, foam, blasa, metal, PVC and other things. Plus there are different laminate thicknesses throughout the deck and hull. All of these materials change at different rates and create stresses that may cause the surface to change shape at different rates and temperatures. If you change the color of the part you may cause it to shrink more also. If the part is white and ten years old, and you paint it black, it will get hotter than it ever has before, resulting some shrinkage. <br /><br />I've made tooling for very large flat panels, 10'X48'.<br />Even years later it is almost impossible to keep them flat, They used adjustable frames (adjustable ever square foot), you get it very close to perfect and the next day as the temperature changed, it would be way off. If these molds were any other color than black you wouldn't have noticed. There are products that perform much better than what is currently used to make most boats, but it's just not cost effective to use it.
 

surlyjoe

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Re: Gel Coat application

awlgrip akes all kinds of stuff, their aricraft and yacht finishes are first rate and look fabulous,
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Gel Coat application

I have finally gotten off the ideal of gelling a boat. Perhap's the most compelling reason for me to do this is in the fanning process of laying down the gel. Each time a layer of gel is laid or better said a fan, the exact same speed and depth must be obtained to get the same big word here "LEVEL" and that does not even take into account leveling the lapping. :eek: <br /><br /> So its back to old school, that is preping it, for me it is really is a hard thing to do. One can never be sure of how the final coat will turn,aka will you get all the valley's out, will there be shadows? That was the beauty of gel or so i thought, as you sand out the finish you would be able to see the shadow's or imperfections thus motivating you to ge it right.<br /><br />Anyway's enough said on my part, thank you very much for all you comments, you have saved me from a lot of drama............... ;)
 
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