G3 185

beckoning

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 15, 2010
Messages
172
2005 G3 185. Great boat, bought last year. A few questions: 1) The forward port side live well will not empty. I can get it to fill, but not empty. I have the manual, but it hasn't helped.. I've blown out the lines, and nothing. 2) The fiberglass dash on the port side between glovebox and windshield has a long thin crack that I do NOT want to spread. How to stabilize it? 3) When the bilge fills, something pumps the water into the motor well through a drain hold at the rear of the motor well. The auto bilge pump empties on the side of the boat. 4) The steering wheel is 180 degrees off when moving straight ahead. How to realign it? My old boat was easy to remove and reposition the wheel. But this one is on solid as if I need a puller. Ideas?
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,956
2005 G3 185. Great boat, bought last year. A few questions: 1) The forward port side live well will not empty. I can get it to fill, but not empty. I have the manual, but it hasn't helped.. I've blown out the lines, and nothing. 2) The fiberglass dash on the port side between glovebox and windshield has a long thin crack that I do NOT want to spread. How to stabilize it? 3) When the bilge fills, something pumps the water into the motor well through a drain hold at the rear of the motor well. The auto bilge pump empties on the side of the boat. 4) The steering wheel is 180 degrees off when moving straight ahead. How to realign it? My old boat was easy to remove and reposition the wheel. But this one is on solid as if I need a puller. Ideas?
I can help you with the crack. Get a reasonably sized drill bit, maybe 3/8" in diameter and a smaller bit...maybe 1/8" and several sizes in-between. At the point where the crack stops, insert the center of the small bit and carefully drill out the material.......you want to be careful as too much pressure may cause the bit to grab some of the cracked material and distort it. Carefully work your way out to the 3/8" diameter. The circle remaining, is a stress relief maneuver and it distributes the stresses around the circumference rather than at one point that is causing the splitting.
Some ideas:
Is the steering system an enclosed tube or a chain....going to guess an enclosed tube. At the engine clamp bracket, the outer shell is attached to one side of the bracket while the center conductor connects to a metal "arm" that connects to a bracket on the engine proper. If both sides are threaded, then given the amount of threads you have, you can change the relationship there.

The live well: For the water to drain out of the container, it has to have air to replace the water. Otherwise a vacuum will form holding the water in the tank....maybe your venting device is blocked.

The bilge pump: My exposure to bilge water removal is a pump that exits through a tube attached to a fitting on the side of the boat under the Gunwale. Dirt daubers love to plug that fitting.

On the "When the bilge fills.........." You mean prior to the bilge pump operating, something pumps water up and into your splash well? My limited experience with splash wells is that there are 2 ports in the transom with rubber flapper valves that are closed with pressure from outside the boat but open with (water) pressure that accumulates in the splash well. No other connections/connectors to the well. If otherwise, somebody rearranged the plumbing back there as what you said doesn't make sense from a design perspective.....opinion!
 

MikeSchinlaub

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 14, 2025
Messages
753
I can help you with the crack. Get a reasonably sized drill bit, maybe 3/8" in diameter and a smaller bit...maybe 1/8" and several sizes in-between. At the point where the crack stops, insert the center of the small bit and carefully drill out the material.......you want to be careful as too much pressure may cause the bit to grab some of the cracked material and distort it. Carefully work your way out to the 3/8" diameter. The circle remaining, is a stress relief maneuver and it distributes the stresses around the circumference rather than at one point that is causing the splitting.
Sure, but then he'll just have a big hole drilled in the dash.
Beckoning, the crack needs ground out, filled, and sprayed. I'm guessing it either starts at a screw hole that wasn't countersunk or an air void at a corner. That would need to be fixed as well.
The live well: For the water to drain out of the container, it has to have air to replace the water. Otherwise a vacuum will form holding the water in the tank....maybe your venting device is blocked.
I wouldn't have thought of that. It could also be in the drain system. Depending on if it's a pump or a manual valve, it could be several things. A clogged line, cable disconnected, bad pump, bad wiring.

The bulge pump is weird. You'll have to move the hose to whatever fitting you want it to exit from, maybe add another through hull if there isn't one available.
 
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