Fuses needed or not?

The Revenge

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

It was bothering me so I just went out and measured it. It's 10'. I actually bought 12' to do the job.
The Etec 90 is a three cylinder not sure if that makes a difference in the formula. Etec dealer told me this 90 won't open its eyes with less than 10 volts.
What are the wires that change to 2/0, 3/0, 4/0 etc.? Are they just getting bigger?
Thanks
 
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sam am I

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

yes, bigger yet. 1 "aught" = 1/0 is the next size bigger than 1 AWG.

Are you forced to run them that far by boat design?

and yes, 120 amps typically for 3 cylinder 90hp

so 2 AWG is approx. 0.386VDC drop at 120 amps @ 10' * 2 = 0.772VDC, you should be good to go with what you bought than looks like. Run well kept batts, you'll be fine.
 
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The Revenge

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

No, not forced to. Often you'll see the batteries and a wiring nightmare at the stern of these old whalers. I'm trying to avoid that by installing the battery at the bottom of my console. Typically the fuel tanks are at the bottom of the console. I went with a different helm seat so I can install an aluminum fuel tank under it, then have the console space available. I'm trying to keep it super clean looking inside.

The other thing is going ahead and adding a second battery now I guess.
Here's the boat I'm working on: It's a 1970 16' Boston Whaler
Thanks again for all the info gang.



 
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sam am I

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

Figured you had to stay mid boat......beautiful boat btw!!, keep'er clean and well laid out, agreed.

Run the 2 AWG, you'll be setup fine with 90HP 3 cylinder. Run the wire nice and clean, separate the positive and negatives(ie, don't twist together) and hang them in pillow block type loops if you can to keep them from rubbing/moving being stepped on etc., she'll run till you're an old man.

Just found this.......

The factory service manual for 90HP(appears to match your install guide)
Evinrude says:

1-10 feet: 4 gauge.
11-15 feet: 3 gauge.
16-20 feet: 1 gauge.

You're plenty good........snap us a pic or two when she sails?
 
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bruceb58

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

Very pretty boat. I can see why you want the battery forward.
 

sam am I

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

It's flawless..........It hurts my eyes:hypnotysed:
 

sam am I

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

So of course through all this.....curiosity as to if any Maine manu's have specifically created fuses and claim it's "for starting with/through", not that i can find but.......he asked in #31

Fused Clamp

and

http://www.projecta.co.nz/Products/BatteryConsumables/DistributionTerminals.aspx#!prettyPhoto[iframes]/2/


Beings that he is running 10' ish of sore thumb sticking out of 2 AWG which is rated approx 181 amps max and his continuous is approx 120 amps............well, this could be done even if these weren't duel element time delays.

Not saying any of these are marine worthy and/or approved by any marine committees as reliable in the ways that are determined by these people to be out there on the water with but, one aspect remains, they can prevent a catastrophic over current failure where not having anything, won't! BUT.....

I have no clue as to the spec's on these, the manufactures don't provide any online which says to me......use at your own risk as there's no CSA, UL or CE approvals even that i can see, to which I agree with what was stated, you could be risking not getting started when it counts the most.

Probably wisest to stay away until someone specifically has designed it for marine use, claims it's "for starting through", has it underwritten by at least two regulating commissions and it's approved by the appropriate committees.
 
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UncleWillie

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

Lets not forget that he is running 20 Feet of wire, Not 10 feet.
The Engine/Starter needs a Ground return to the battery that also carries the full Cranking Amps, and will have it own voltage drop.
There will also be some losses due to the connectors and the battery switch

Designing a cosmetic electrical compartment at the stern might be worth considering.
It might double as a seat or a casting platform.
 
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sam am I

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

2 AWG is approx. 0.386VDC drop at 120 amps @ 10' * 2 = 0.772VDC

Got it U.W. was mult'ing by "2", keep me sane though, I do go over the edge at times.

Thinking based on his install manual and service manual and a lot of silly math to arrive back at slightly larger than what johnny-Rude recommended...."4/3 gauge for 10/11 feet",(I think the 4 would have been way too small IMO) the 2 gauge he got should work nicely for him.

I don't know exactly what those starter's are using these days though if they're saying 4 gauge for up to 10'? Wow.....But, better to be over killed than under dead I figure.
 
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UncleWillie

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

Got it U.W. was mult'ing by "2", keep me sane though, I do go over the edge at times.

I caught that you had the calculation times 2. :joyous:

I was worrying the OP had not accounted for the return wiring in his planning and had not purchased 24 feet of wire.

...so I just went out and measured it. It's 10'. I actually bought 12' to do the job...

The devil is in the details, and we are finding that some of the important details are missing. :facepalm:
 

sam am I

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

I caught that you had the calculation times 2. :joyous:

I was worrying the OP had not accounted for the return wiring in his planning and had not purchased 24 feet of wire.



The devil is in the details, and we are finding that some of the important details are missing. :facepalm:

Ahhhhhhh, got it. I hope he saw the "2" then :lol:

I was thinking about this too and if there is a bilge area in that type of hull that he can run/hide the wires down in/through? Or does he have to pin wires to the sides and across the floor leading away/out from the center console? I recall back in the day riding in a whaler similar and it seems there was not much of a bilge per-se in those.

It looked like he had romex in the bumper trim?
 
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The Revenge

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

I apologize some of my details were a little spotty. I originally purchase 12' of black 2ga and 12' of red 2 ga.
These boats are filled with foam. There is no inside cavity to hide things or mount things in.
Only the 4" tunnel that runs from under the console to the stern. It's like trying to mount things inside your bath tub.
Here's finished product this am: I'm still going to install another battery on the left side of the console.
Thanks for all the help.


 
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The Revenge

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

"It looked like he had romex in the bumper trim?"

Hahahahahaha. Nice catch btw. Here's the skinny on that wire hanging out of the rub rail starboard side.

BW originally laid a wire in the hull from the bow to the console area when these boats were manufactured. If you ordered the nav light package they hooked it up. If not the wire sat. It's 43 years later. Most of those original wires are rotted or nowhere to be found.

Most people today run a wire under the rub rail from the bow to the stern. Then they just run it right over the side of the gunnel leaving the wire completely exposed. Often right across the deck to a battery.

I still wanted the original classic looking bow light, minus the exposed wire, and it also function.
My idea is to install a two wire connector in the rub rail cap, obviously that wire will be hooked up to it. It's a nice chrome connector. It will stay unplugged until when the nav lights are needed. Then I will un-Velcro the wire I will have installed under the rear bench seat and plug it into the connector for the nav lights. The stern light is a battery operated light I will stick on top of the outboard.

Here's the nav light:


 

sam am I

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Re: Fuses needed or not?

Dang....I have a freshly restored 200 yr old baby grand piano in my living room with more smudges than your boat dude!!! Very nice.....looks like you've put a ton of hours into her.......Beautiful job man!! Like the bow light wiring idea too.
 
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