Full Restore 1977 Bayliner 2755 Victoria "The Lumbering Oaf"

petermarcus

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2010
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129
Re: Full Restore 1977 Bayliner 2755 Victoria "The Lumbering Oaf"

If you are using epoxy, most epoxy guys say that CSM doesn't really help (1708 is 17oz roving/cloth attached to chopped strand mat). CSM is really designed for poly and even has some binders that are meant to melt in poly to be the most effective. IMHO, 18oz is fine alone with epoxy -- and I'm using epoxy in my restore with weave/cloth only, no CSM.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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Re: Full Restore 1977 Bayliner 2755 Victoria "The Lumbering Oaf"

PM is correct IF;) you go with epoxy NO MAT is required... cloth and or Roving ONLY.
 

petermarcus

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2010
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129
Re: Full Restore 1977 Bayliner 2755 Victoria "The Lumbering Oaf"

Just to add an opinion on the asthetics/finish as you mentioned... CSM probably isn't an option, but once you have the strength you want, you could use a small ounce cloth over the top. Unlike poly, epoxy itself isn't brittle, so you could even smooth some epoxy over with a squeegee to make it smooth.

A couple gotcha's, though. First, epoxy runs a lot, so if you're smoothing (fairing) with it, you probably want to thicken it with cabosil or something so that it won't run too much. Second, gelcoat is poly-based, so it doesn't always do well sitting on epoxy (epoxy will stick to poly, but poly has problems sticking to epoxy). There are primers and paints and such, and if you search the forums for gelcoat and epoxy, you'll find almost as much controversy as the epoxy vs. poly controversy :) (Not trying to stir up trouble, just pointing out that there are a lot of points of view on this forum!)
 
Joined
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Re: Full Restore 1977 Bayliner 2755 Victoria "The Lumbering Oaf"

Thanks guys. The guy at US Composits suggested using epoxy to bind the plywood to the outer fiberglass and also to bind the second layer of plywood to the first. After that he said to switch to poly to finish. I will have to be careful to make sure that I don't get epoxy anywhere I plan to put poly. I plan to mask off the edges and the rest of the boat where I will be working. I liked the idea of the gluing strength of the epoxy for the transom layers but I agreed with the tech guy and woodonglass as well that the 404 poly resin would be much more cost effective and plenty strong for my application. The US Composits tech guy also said that after I completed my work they sell a real thin epoxy that can be tinted like gelcoat. I could roll that on just like gel and that would give me a nice finish as well as full water proofing. I planned on using that anywhere there is likely to be water or someone will see. It doesn't sound like there is any real drawback to the roving so I may take the $3 a yard savings and just use that and smooth areas I really want perfect with fairing or thickened epoxy to give that finishing touch.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Re: Full Restore 1977 Bayliner 2755 Victoria "The Lumbering Oaf"

LO,

FYI I understand what the tech told you. However, Building your transom using the poly resin and the methods I outlined in my drawing IS the most used method of building transoms here on the forum. There is ABSOLUTELY NO need for you to use epoxy anywhere in your boat. The extra expense and the problems it can cause with bonding IF you want to switch later on to using Poly are not GOOD. I would STRONGLY recommend that you decide which product to use and stick with it throughout the entire boat. Again I recommend the Poly Your entire boat is made from it. When mixed and applied correctly it will be PLENTY strong enough for your restoration in ALL areas. For your transom there is NO NEED to worry about a finish coat. The woven will look fine when painted. Under the splashwell you will hardly ever see it.
 
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
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Some Good Progress This Weekend

Some Good Progress This Weekend

Well we turned the corner this weekend. We still have a crazy amount of work in front of us but we got the transom wood installed. That is one major milestone out of the way. I have to tell you it feels good. Thanks to everyone out here that has offered advice, encouragement, and experience. We would not have been able to get this far without it. Next step is to do the fillets, tab in the transom, then glass the whole thing in. But that is going to wait a couple of weeks. We are going to enjoy the long weekend coming up with some family camping time and some quality beer drinking time. :)

I don't have too many pictures of the final transom install because we were working against the clock to get it done before the sun kicked off the resin. But here are a couple just to prove that it is in there. I am going to leave the clamps in for a couple of days just to be sure that everything had 100% cured. That and I won't be able to get to the boat for the next day or so. I don't think that it will hurt to leave them on even after cure.

Here is the final test fit of the wood.
21FinalTestFit.jpg


Here it is almost ready for resin. Just one final wipe down and we are ready.
22ReadyForInstall.jpg


It's in and clamped here. What you don't see is the 2X4 on the top side of the transom to give a good clamp.
23InandClampedInside.jpg


Here it is from the outside.
24InandClampedOutside.jpg
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

Hey LO,

I'm not seeing any Squeeze out of resin. Did you clean it all off or what? I would expect to see quite a bit of excess Thick resin squeezing out around the edges and then you could fillet in the edges with it. It concerns me a bit NOT to see this???
 
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
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Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

We cleaned off all of the squeeze. Believe me we had a mess. Big globs of stuff coming out of every hole on the outside that dropped onto a drop cloth. We cleaned out the inside of the boat as well. I wanted to keep everything as smooth as i could for the next steps. It was likely not needed but we wanted to keep it neat. What you can't see in the picture is that the edges of the wood are almost full on the inside. That is also why you see the wax paper in the pictures. We were trying not to stick the bolts and 2X4's to the boat :) Not sure if the wax paper idea was needed or if it will work but we thought it worth a try.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

OK, VERY Kool!!! Sounds like you could have thickend your resin a bit more. Did you put vaseline or some kind of non stick agent on the shaft of the bolts I HOPE!!!! It really helps to COVE the inside edges of the transom with the resin. Helps when you're laying the cloth.;) Oh well, you can still fillet it in later. Good clean installation.

Check these pics out from friscoboaters thread.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=454460&page=16&highlight=frisco
 

goboating

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 7, 2011
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104
Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

:D:D:D Wow!! Things are looking up. I see you have a handle on things so this post is in regards to your repower idea. Look up 77 Luhrs 28ft diesel repower. He installed a GM 6.2L pickup diesel into his 28ft cabin cruiser. SWEET!!!!!! He has some wonderful videos to go along with his posts and help explain things.The end result is an cheap boat to operate! One of the great things is...the engines are a dime a dozen in salvage yards.;)
 

ingalp01

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 11, 2010
Messages
357
Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

So far it looks like you are moving right along! I'm working a pretty big project myself, and Woodonglass suggested the wrecker idea for me, but alas I didn't have room where my boat is sitting, so I built a gantry in place similar to Lurhs project. Keep it up. And I definitely agree that breaking it into smaller projects will keep you on track and sane! Good Luck M8! :)
 

Luhrs28

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Jul 14, 2010
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423
Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

Re: Some Good Progress This Weekend

You're going to have a nice boat there. I agree with breaking it up into little chunks. I used to go over to the boatyard thinking I was going to work on 6 different aspects of my restoration and ended up getting very little done. (something like effort is diluted instead of being concentrated) As long as you keep moving one chunk of it ahead a little bit every time you work on it she'll get finished.
 

melirivera0507

Recruit
Joined
Jul 11, 2011
Messages
1
Re: Full Restore 1977 Bayliner 2755 Victoria "The Lumbering Oaf"

Nice...I've been thinking about working on mines too...Thanks for the motivation...I also have a 1977 Bayliner Victoria 27' project too..
 
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