Front wheel bearings and hubs

[flashback]

I have a 2001 GMC Sierra RWD and the front bearings have been hollering for a few years and need replacement. Doesn't look difficult but deciding what to buy is.. what are your thoughts on the TRQ brand. This old truck has 200,000 miles on it and I can get the said brand almost anywhere..

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would spring for Moog, SKF, or Timken. The difference in cost is a case of beer

 

[flashback]

I would spring for Moog, SKF, or Timken. The difference in cost is a case of beer

Ok, I can do that, where should I send the beers..?
Thanks.

 

[dwco5051]

I just replaced one on my 2002 Sierra 2500 a couple of months ago at around 175,000 with a MOOG which was only a few bucks more than some. They recommend to also replace the spindle nut and the hub dust cover at the same time. Don't use an impact wrench to tighten the spindle nut and don't over torque it. Mine calls for 177 foot pounds so realizing the biggest wrench I have only went to 150 I had borrow one off my oldest boy. Also depending if you live where they use a lot of road salt check the dirt shields for the rotor. They are known to rust and fall apart in this part of the country.

 

[flashback]

That 2500 must be a different setup my 1500 appears to be a single unit and sealed. In the olden days you could get roller bearings like on a trailer and races if needed.

 

[Scott Danforth]

That 2500 must be a different setup my 1500 appears to be a single unit and sealed. In the olden days you could get roller bearings like on a trailer and races if needed.

Unified hubs have been the norm since the late 80s/ early 90s.

You want individual bearings. Buy an older vehicle

 

[dwco5051]

That 2500 must be a different setup my 1500 appears to be a single unit and sealed. In the olden days you could get roller bearings like on a trailer and races if needed.

You're right. I missed the part that yours is 2wd. A simple bolt in place job on your model to replace the hub. Yours should look like this.

 

[flashback]

You're right. I missed the part that yours is 2wd. A simple bolt in place job on your model to replace the hub. Yours should look like this.

Yep that's what I have and the reason I was looking for an afoerable brand that will last for a few more years..this old truck has been good to me but I don't expect too much more from it.

 

[flashback]

Unified hubs have been the norm since the late 80s/ early 90s.

You want individual bearings. Buy an older vehicle

I like this truck, have nightmares of owning a newer one for all the computer gadgets.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I like this truck, have nightmares of owning a newer one for all the computer gadgets.

Actually the transmission issues are worse than the electronic issues

 

[flashback]

Actually the transmission issues are worse than the electronic issues

I don't know anything about the newer tranny's or anything else for that matter, still in the dark ages. I do know the tranny in my truck is doing fine for the moment although the engine has had a piston slap but it quiets down after a few minutes. The AC crapped out a few years ago but the power windows still work.. LOL.

 

[bruceb58]

Other than OEM, I would get the Timken over the Moog. I did a Moog replacement on my 2018 F-150. That's all I could get my hands on 12 months ago. National backorder for the OEM ones.

Rockauto has all of the aftermarket ones pretty much.

 

[dolluper]

They are all mostly made in China...40 or 100 dollar bearing assemblies
Knock a wheel stud out with big hammer fast rap and reverse a steering wheel puller (the bolt) insert in stud hole and tighten up
Easy pessy hub puller
Might have to move around the clock with it on stubborn ones

 

[bruceb58]

They are all mostly made in China...40 or 100 dollar bearing assemblies
Knock a wheel stud out with big hammer fast rap and reverse a steering wheel puller (the bolt) insert in stud hole and tighten up
Easy pessy hub puller
Might have to move around the clock with it on stubborn ones

Almost all wheel hub assemblies these days are bolted on. No need for a puller. That includes the OP's truck in this thread.

 

[dolluper]

Yes they have 3 bolts...But in the rust belt you can work hard hammering the assembly out or do it easy
In a perfect world you would pull the bolts out and it would fall out
Not so on a 22 year old truck

 

[flashback]

The truck spent half it's life in ga and the other half in east tn so no rust problem, the hardest thing was finding a level place to jack it up and the over tight lugs.. next on the list will be shocks..

 

[dolluper]

Amazing man ....no rust in your parts and put it off ...for years ..l guess you can afford to do it now and drive your family around safely again .. As Bruce said undo the 3 bolts and it should fall out..
Shocks are another 2 bolts and one nut
Easy when theres no rust

 

[flashback]

Amazing man ....no rust in your parts and put it off ...for years ..l guess you can afford to do it now and drive your family around safely again .. As Bruce said undo the 3 bolts and it should fall out..
Shocks are another 2 bolts and one nut
Easy when theres no rust

Tennessee puts down salt water occasionally but nothing a breaker bar can't handle.. the shocks were a breeze. I have a new truck!