Flooring HELP

[crofoot]

Well darn, had the floor in my 1969 starchief all smoothed out and went to clean before installing new flooring and found a new bubble about 5 inches around just in front of where the driver seat pedestal was mounted. So now I think it is best to replace the plywood floor The one that is in there looks to be a 3/4 inch ply with a1/2 inch ply over that. Is that common? I have read of people using just 3/4 inch. Can anyone tell me what was original? the two sheets were glued very well before they were installed. I could get pictures if that would help. Either way I am replacing it.

 

[GSPLures]

Pictures help. Could be possible that 1/2" was placed over the original floor due to rot. If that is the case expect a lot of damage underneath. With the age of boat more than likely it will need a transom and stringer replacement.

 

[Scott Danforth]

your boat has had what we refer to as a deck-over. it is the equivalent of a shady used car salesman using the sunday comics and bondo to cover rust.

original floor would have been a single layer of exterior grade plywood or marine plywood

as indicated above, you need to look. most likely you will have a transom job as well.

 

[crofoot]

your boat has had what we refer to as a deck-over. it is the equivalent of a shady used car salesman using the sunday comics and bondo to cover rust.

original floor would have been a single layer of exterior grade plywood or marine plywood

as indicated above, you need to look. most likely you will have a transom job as well.

Have already done the transom. Removed the old flooring today and this is what was in there. As far as stringers go they are aluminum. Thank you all for the response ,all input is appreciated. In the interest of strength I am thinking I will glue a 3/4 and 1/2 inch ply together to replace the old. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what glue would be best?

 

[Scott Danforth]

will glue a 3/4 and 1/2 inch ply together to replace the old. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what glue would be best?

3/4 by itself is more than strong enough, the extra 1/2" is just adding weight and taking away from your capacity rating. however if you want to bond together, use tite-bond III

 

[crofoot]

3/4 by itself is more than strong enough, the extra 1/2" is just adding weight and taking away from your capacity rating. however if you want to bond together, use tite-bond III

My worry is that the things that are attached to the gunnel and floor would not fit if I changed the thickness. I would definitely like to lose the weight. tite-bond lll it is thanks.

 

[sms986]

You could just shim whatever attached to the gunnels and floor with 1/2" coosa board strips. Pretty simple and you wouldn't have to worry about the shims rotting, just make sure thescrews holding the shims to the deck are sealed. I just put the deck on my boat and dipped the screws in epoxy PB and also filled the pilot holes with resin before screwing in.

 

[jbcurt00]

I'd advise attaching the deck w rivets rather then screws.

After seeing hundreds (thousands?) of derelict Starcrafts torn apart and put back together, yours is the only 1 w 1.25in thick decking, none of the rest were, Starchiefs included. Not all were 1969s, but some were.

Before committing to 1.25in thick, you should post more pix and info.

Pix of the interior when you got it?
Anything else stand out as replaced/modified?
100% sure it came from Starcraft originally a Starchief?

It has happened before, Starcraft did do a few rehabs under warranty, so perhaps SC had a hand in it being 1.25in. But again, never before.

If any of the rehabs I've seen were originally 1.25in and replaced w 1/2 (a few), 5/8 (a few) or 3/4 (many) as you said, some stuff wouldnt fit correctly w thinner ply decking. Inverse of a more common problem, changing from 1/2in (typical by SC) to 3/4 creates a thicker then original fitment problem.

Where exactly on the boat did the sample piece you showed at 1.25in come from? Aft near transom, amidships or cabin area?

IIRC, some cabin SCs had a step down at/near the cabin/cuddy....

 

[sms986]

@jbcurt00 why rivits? (Just curious)

 

[KJM]

That picture of the plywood looks like all one piece. Is it possible that that was originally 3/4 inch and got wet and expanded? I'm doing the floor of mine now too and the original was only 1/2 inch marine plywood with a good bit of fiberglass on the top side only. I have put in today a new floor that is 1/2 inch with fiberglass on the underside and already it seems very solid. I plan to put a couple of more layers of FG on top and think that will be lots strong. I am sticking mine down with PL600 and hoping to not use screws or anything that will make holes. I have many large containers on it filled with water for weight until it cures. Like Scott said making it too thick is overkill and adding unnecessary weight.

 

[sms986]

Yeah, my deck is and was only 3/4". It was 1/2" in the cabin but I figured for consistency I might as well use 3/4". I THINK screws are ok, as long as they are sealed. I'm using 316 ss screws and completely sealing them in. Easier than trying to get an even weight distribution for me.

 

[jbcurt00]

@jbcurt00 why rivits? (Just curious)

A few rehabs that had decks replaced previously w screws found that some wallered out the hole in the stringers. Admittedly, IMO, it was partially likely to have been 1 of a handful of other problems that compounded each other, IE: overdriven screws going thru very thin stock used for stringers that doesnt have much 'grab' for screw threads, running w a softening deck, pounding the ever loving heck out of an aluminum boat, not making sure the deck was down tight before driving screw home, etc, etc etc.

Rivets, done right and sealed to the plywood (dipped in 3m 5200) would be plenty sufficient and was how boat was built.

Brazier head, closed end rivets are amazingly strong.

 

[jbcurt00]

I am sticking mine down with PL600 and hoping to not use screws or anything that will make holes.

In an aluminum boat w aluminum stringers? I dont think the PL will hold a glassed deck to an aluminum stringer long term. Hopefully I'm wrong.

Sealed the deck w fiberglass cloth/CSM w epoxy or polyester resin?

 

[KJM]

In an aluminum boat w aluminum stringers? I dont think the PL will hold a glassed deck to an aluminum stringer long term. Hopefully I'm wrong.

Sealed the deck w fiberglass cloth/CSM w epoxy or polyester resin?

Yeah you may be right about PL not sticking to aluminum, i'm working with wood and cooza, but OP did mention aluminum didn't he. Maybe rivets would be the way to go.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I cant get PL to stay adhered to wood.....seriously doubt it will remain adhered to aluminum

 

[sms986]

@jbcurt00 I can see that. Lot of people don't want to drill pilot holes or anything like that. Just shoot a screw through and split the wood. Oh well, like I said before in another thread, one of the biggest parts of this process is patience and attention to detail.

I put 3/4" cleats against the 3/4" stringers and bulkheads, then I drilled pilot holes before screwing in and sealed them.

 

[jbcurt00]

I put 3/4" cleats against the 3/4" stringers and bulkheads, then I drilled pilot holes before screwing in and sealed them.

On an aluminum boat?

Or fiberglass?

The OP is working w an aluminum boat w aluminum stringers. Fiberglass boat advice isnt helpful. And if you used wood stringers on an aluminum boat, thats non-typical and best avoided.

 

[sms986]

@jbcurt00 Ahh, I see. Saw wooden deck and assumed glass.. my mistake.

Nonetheless, using coosa board for the shims could still work as long as the deck is sealed up. Maybe wrap the deck in glass? I'm not sure of any other way to seal it up.

 

[crofoot]

I'd advise attaching the deck w rivets rather then screws.

After seeing hundreds (thousands?) of derelict Starcrafts torn apart and put back together, yours is the only 1 w 1.25in thick decking, none of the rest were, Starchiefs included. Not all were 1969s, but some were.

Before committing to 1.25in thick, you should post more pix and info.

Pix of the interior when you got it?
Anything else stand out as replaced/modified?
100% sure it came from Starcraft originally a Starchief?

It has happened before, Starcraft did do a few rehabs under warranty, so perhaps SC had a hand in it being 1.25in. But again, never before.

If any of the rehabs I've seen were originally 1.25in and replaced w 1/2 (a few), 5/8 (a few) or 3/4 (many) as you said, some stuff wouldnt fit correctly w thinner ply decking. Inverse of a more common problem, changing from 1/2in (typical by SC) to 3/4 creates a thicker then original fitment problem.

Where exactly on the boat did the sample piece you showed at 1.25in come from? Aft near transom, amidships or cabin area?

IIRC, some cabin SCs had a step down at/near the cabin/cuddy....

That piece came from the aft piece of the deck .One of three. The whole deck is of the same material.

 

[crofoot]

That piece came from the aft piece of the deck .One of three. The whole deck is of the same material. This is that piece leaning against inside wall,cutout goes against the transom.