Floor Restoration Help

[Merlin2000]

Before anyone says to "search the threads", I have already done so and am unable to find the specifics on my questions. I do appreciate everyones time and opinion.

21' 1985 Bayliner Capri with a Volvo/Penta I/O

I am redoing the floor (spongy) and stringers (rotted) and have already tested the transom with satisfactory results. My questions are specific and as follows:

1. In the forum pages, there is reference to glassing the stringers. Does this mean to encapsulate the stringers in resin (all sides) prior to installing and then fiberglass over the top to secure to the hull? So basically, I paint the stringers with resin first, let dry, and then install?

2. In the forum pages, there is reference to installing the stringers 1/4" off of the floor of the hull using foam as a seperator. Is this foam supposed to run the length of the stringer, or just at a couple of points to keep the stringer elevated whilst installing?

3. I have no salvageable stringers to pattern after. Is there a recommendation on how to create a template to cut the new stringer 1) to the correct shape to match the hull, and 2) to get them all to align at the same heigth for a level floor?

I have 45 days to complete this boat or my four kids may knock me off in my sleep. We drove from Southern Texas to Northern Connecticut last year during spring break to pick this boat up, so their expectations are high (yes... me, a Honda Odessey, 4 pre-teen kids and a non-stop round trip. Your pity is appreciated.)

Thank you.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

1. Yes, covering the wood (pretreating), prevents dry spots in the final step

2. Either or.....I've done it both ways, just best the wood doesn't have direct contact with the hull.
3. This one is bit tougher, hopefully you took some measurement and pictures before the old
deck (floor) was removed, this will help you calculate the proper height. If the deck is too high or too low it will effect the way it all goes back together.

45 days is enough time, but depends on how much of that 45 days will be divided between work, family, and boat.....under normal conditions 45 days is really pushing it.


Oh and. Welcome to iboats Dry Dock

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

Welcome to iboats.

Stringer's should be "bedded" w/foam or even PL adhesive. I usually bed 95% and leave a gap or two so water can drain.

Have you read the sticky posts? The ones with the good tips?

 

[SDSeville]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

Welcome to iboats Merlin. For the stringer measurements, I pulled a string line and measured every 6 inches. Then I just transferred the measurements to my stringer material. It is a bit of a pain, but it came out fine.

 

[Psiclown]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

My stringers have a compound curve so I'm going with a pourable composite stringer. Arjay is what I'm using but there's Seacast and Nidabond. Check out my link to see how to make the template.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

Welcome to iBoats!!

If you Really want to SEE how to do it, Check out this thread. Searching on here is not the best but it should have brought this one up.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=454460

Everyone of your questions is answered and demonstrated and video provided.

 

[Merlin2000]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

Welcome to iBoats!!

If you Really want to SEE how to do it, Check out this thread. Searching on here is not the best but it should have brought this one up.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=454460

Everyone of your questions is answered and demonstrated and video provided.

I had seen this video series before, but he had not gotten so far. I have watched the latest and feel ok about some of the answers. Not real sure I want to be cutting stringers inside the boat. I had thought about a "tell" board (basically a 2 X 4 with landscaping nails drilled loosely through every couple of inches or so. Press the heads against the hull and level the board. The resulting nail extensions should be the proper curvature of the hull and the proper height.

It took a while to figure out what "PL" and "peanut butter" meant, but I gather "PL" is a PL construction adhesive and "peanut butter" is some sort of epoxy resin. Is this correct?

Thanks for the welcome and the advice!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

1. OOPS Sooper Dooper Peanut Butter Recipe
here is the forumula....

cabosil....glass bubbles and 1/4 inch glass fibers.....mixed with resin

mix it up well use a drill with an Old Hand Mixer paddle. Should be the consistency of creamy peanut butter.

after its mixed up good....then add the catalyst.....according to the amount of resin you added....between 1.5% to 2.5%...no more....no less
Mix it again
Apply You'll have about 15 mins @ 70 degrees less time if it's hot. Use less catalyst to give you more time but NOT less than 1.5%

Yep PL Adhesive.

When my stringers are mush, I use 1/8" Tempered Hardboard to make patterns $10 bucks a sheet at Lowes. or go to a local appliance dealer and see if they have any refrigerator cardboard boxes to cut up.

 

[Merlin2000]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

I appreciate the info. Let's see just how bad I can screw this up! I'll post pics once I get the old stringer fiber ground down.

 

[Merlin2000]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

Welcome to iboats.

Stringer's should be "bedded" w/foam or even PL adhesive. I usually bed 95% and leave a gap or two so water can drain.

Have you read the sticky posts? The ones with the good tips?

Thought about your post, read other posts and watched the latest videos. One question regarding the "bedding" of the stringers. The emphasis seems to be on raising the stringers up 1/4" from the hull. If P&L cures hard and it fills the gap from the stringer to the hull, wouldn't it make it as inflexible as if the stringers were directly laying on the hull? If I choose to go foam to "bed", what type are we talking about? Isn"t the canned spray foam from the hardware store open cell and susceptible to absorbing water? I know to use the closed cell 1/4" foam board to use as spacers... Thanks for the clarification.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Floor Restoration Help

If P&L cures hard

Not to worry, PL Premium 100% polyurethane does not Cure HARD. It remains flexible.

If I choose to go foam to "bed", what type are we talking about?
If you want to use Total foam then you can use the Pink Or Blue stuff from Lowe's or Home Depot. It is Closed cell. You would need to cut your own strips since it is 3/4 inch thick typically.

At least that's what others on the forum have done.