Floor and transom repair.

Levi1975

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Joined
Jan 14, 2022
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3
Hey guys. I bought a 30 yr old fiberglass boat last summer. I have to replace the floor in the boat and from what I have been reading there is a good chance I will need to do the stringers also.
The aluminum trim over the transom has been pushed up so there has been water getting into the wood in the transom also.
I can lift the 90hp mercury and see a little movement in the transom. Signs are pointing to doing the transom also.
I have been doing a bit of reading and watching some of the videos trying to get a grasp on what all needs to be done and what material I will need for resin and fiberglass mat and what not.
Done a little fiberglass work but nothing on this scale.

What I am wondering is if I should do the floor and stringers first before I lift the top off and then do the transom last just to keep the boat from twisting out of shape. It's still winter here in canada so I can't do this outside and would like to have it ready for mid may if possible.
To work with the cap off I was going to roll the trailer ahead in the garage as far as possible, lift the cap and suspended it from the ceiling with ratchet straps and then roll the hull back and work on the transom repair.
First time boat owner and I want to keep the boat for a few more years and then upgrade. I couldn't sell the boat the way it is without taking a big loss. I know I won't recover what I have into it . Just have to write that off as fishing time.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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49,540
welcome aboard.

yes, if the floor is gone, your transom and stringers were rotten years ago.

boats rot from the drain hole (keel) up.

at the top of the forum is a sticky. 4th one down has all the answers you will ever need.


read links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b in that order.

you need to remove the interior, remove the drive/motor, build a cradle, cradle the deck, remove the cap, remove the floor, remove the stringers, transom, etc. (all while making sketches and taking notes and pics) then build it back up.

if you work every day, 8 hours a day on it, you will get it done by May of 2022. if not, and you only work weekends, expect May of 2023

expect to put in about 500 hours if you are by yourself.

regarding the cost, the average rebuild is running about $3500-$5000 US for the materials, incidentals, etc.

if you dont have tools, shop vac, etc add about 6-8 hundred
 

76SeaRay

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Messages
1,071
Keep in mind that for glass work it is best to keep your garage area at 65 to 70 degrees F (18 to 22 degrees C) during application and for several hours after. Best to keep it warm for a few days to make sure the boat hull comes up to temperature first. For floatation foam installation best to keep it as close to 80 degrees F (27 degrees C) and less than 60% humidity or it will not expand as much resulting in higher cost for more foam.

By the way, I have found that the most indispensable tool needed is an oscillating tool for removing old glass. Something like this:


Plan on a lot of blades. I got the corded Dewalt which has held up really great in spite of all the fiberglass dust. I wouldn't go with a battery operated tool as it takes a lot of cutting to get the old fiberglass out, like hours and hours. I use an angle grinder once I get most of the glass off.
 

buxmj

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 9, 2018
Messages
294
As for your question about keeping the cap on while you do the floor and stringers and then do the transom later. You are correct in that the cap will definitely keep the hull stable and not go out of shape but you might not have a choice if the stringers and floor connect to the transom. Even though my floor and stringers didn't contact the transom it was easier for me to go ahead and pull the cap because it gave me more room to work and you will only want to grind once, it is a mess and a pain to do but once you are done with the grinding you can be off to the races with the reconstruction. Please share some pics so we can better help you.

Buck
 

Levi1975

Recruit
Joined
Jan 14, 2022
Messages
3
I'll try and get some pics . For some reason my last post got screwed up.
I'm going to pull up the carpet as soon as my hips get better and let me start on the boat repairs. As I posted earlier the only soft spot was by the driver seat.
Not sure if I want to put carpet back either.
Also if its going to cost 3 to 5 thousand to fix the boat then it's going to be a while before that happens. Lol.
I calculated the cost of materials just for the transom repair at around $600 cdn.
The floor area I measured out that a 4x8 sheet of plywood will fit. Not sure yet what is underneath for stringers.

Anyone have a estimate for fiberglass materials needed to do the stringers .
 

Levi1975

Recruit
Joined
Jan 14, 2022
Messages
3
Will the boat be supported enough just sitting on the trailer or will it still distort .
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,540
any soft spot in the floor means the transom and stringers below it are rotten and the foam is saturated with water. boats rot from the bottom up.

unless you are close to a fiberglass supply house, your resin/cloth/fillers/EPA shipping charges will run you about $1500+
 

76SeaRay

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Messages
1,071
I am in the process of finishing up my transom, floor and stringers and still buying resin, glass, floatation foam and miscellaneous supplies. That link shows a good pricing breakdown but at current inflation, I would add about 30 to 35% to those prices.
 
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