Floor and Transom Rebuild

[KJM]

Resin and cloth works, I used PL premium to bond the 2 pieces together then when it was dried I used PB to bond the wood to the hull

Thats what i did too, only I also used screws as well to help hold the two pieces together. Worked fine.

 

[88 Capri (2022 SOTY)]

I used titebond glue between them and lots of screws to hold it together while drying. Once dry I drilled 1/2" holes through the wood before PB'ing to the transom which allows the PB to ooze out the hole allowing a tighter bond to the hull while adding more contact surface for the PB to grab on to. (holes).
Remove the screws before attaching to the hull and once it's secure to the hull fill any voids with PB then smooth out and glass.
Woodonglass made those suggestions and it worked great!

 

[b646]

I would not use 5200 to bond the two pieces of plywood together. That stuff can take a really long time to cure and there are better adhesives for the job. PL premium would work, but after using it you'll need to wait at least 72 hours as it cures and offgasses. A better choice would be either resin and fiberglass, or Titebond III. Titebond is probably the easiest (and least expensive) to use, and it cures/dries overnight. When dried, it is at least as resistant to water as the glue that holds together the plies in exterior plywood, meaning the plywood glue will fail before the Titebond if it gets wet.

I agree with the suggestion to use peanut butter/thickened resin to bond the transom to the hull. As soon as it cures, you can continue glassing. If you use PL Premium, which also would work, you again have to wait another 72 hours (and probably longer if it's cool where you're working.). If you try glassing too soon over stuff that was adhered with PL premium, you're liable to get bubbles in your fiberglass.

I will probably use pl premium to attach the transom to the hull. Cure time is no issue. I’m having issues finding the amount of resin I already need but pl is readily available. Will Pl bond to glass? Was going to wrap the transom before attaching it to the hull. Also considered adding a layer of glass to the hull before attacking the transom as well.

 

[b646]

I would not use 5200 to bond the two pieces of plywood together. That stuff can take a really long time to cure and there are better adhesives for the job. PL premium would work, but after using it you'll need to wait at least 72 hours as it cures and offgasses. A better choice would be either resin and fiberglass, or Titebond III. Titebond is probably the easiest (and least expensive) to use, and it cures/dries overnight. When dried, it is at least as resistant to water as the glue that holds together the plies in exterior plywood, meaning the plywood glue will fail before the Titebond if it gets wet.

I agree with the suggestion to use peanut butter/thickened resin to bond the transom to the hull. As soon as it cures, you can continue glassing. If you use PL Premium, which also would work, you again have to wait another 72 hours (and probably longer if it's cool where you're working.). If you try glassing too soon over stuff that was adhered with PL premium, you're liable to get bubbles in your fiberglass.

I would not use 5200 to bond the two pieces of plywood together. That stuff can take a really long time to cure and there are better adhesives for the job. PL premium would work, but after using it you'll need to wait at least 72 hours as it cures and offgasses. A better choice would be either resin and fiberglass, or Titebond III. Titebond is probably the easiest (and least expensive) to use, and it cures/dries overnight. When dried, it is at least as resistant to water as the glue that holds together the plies in exterior plywood, meaning the plywood glue will fail before the Titebond if it gets wet.

I agree with the suggestion to use peanut butter/thickened resin to bond the transom to the hull. As soon as it cures, you can continue glassing. If you use PL Premium, which also would work, you again have to wait another 72 hours (and probably longer if it's cool where you're working.). If you try glassing too soon over stuff that was adhered with PL premium, you're liable to get bubbles in your fiberglass.

Glass the hull, back of transom, and then use PB to attach?

 

[JASinIL2006]

I will probably use pl premium to attach the transom to the hull. Cure time is no issue. I’m having issues finding the amount of resin I already need but pl is readily available. Will Pl bond to glass? Was going to wrap the transom before attaching it to the hull. Also considered adding a layer of glass to the hull before attacking the transom as well.

Sorry, can't help you there. I used PB to attach my transom. You might check the manufacturer's web site to see if it will bond to fiberglass.

 

[GSPLures]

I know people have used PL to bond the transom to the hull, that was also my original plan. I researched it and could not find anybody who updated how it held up over time. So I ended up using peanut butter to glue mine in because that was the way most go and everyone else recommended doing it that way.

I didnt want to go through all the work to find out I had to redo it in 5 years. Not saying it will not hold up I just haven't found anybody that used it saying it has held up.

 

[todhunter]

I know my original fear with using PB was that it was going to set up too fast before I could get everything clamped. I had never worked with fiberglass before my boat project, so I had no experience with resin kick times. I think some other folks may try to avoid using PB for the same reasons. However, after working with PB some, I decided to use it for installing my transom, and ended up having plenty of working time. Mix it on the slow side, work in a cool area, or if outside, in the shade during a cool time of day (early morning). I think also doing a dry run of the installation and clamping is helpful, and make sure you have all your materials laid out.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Test fitting everything and doing several dry runs is key when using PB. It's really not bad, and todhunter's suggestions are spot on.

You can cool your resin a bit before mixing, too; that will give you a little extra time before it kicks.

 

[KJM]

Yep, PB is the way to go. If you are not sure of working time and and mixing etc. you could make a small amt and do a practice piece with some scraps. Definitely do some dry fitting and have a plan and everything laid out. Have some way of bracing the transom in place overnight. I cut some wood strapping and nailed them to the stringers with one nail back from the transom so i could swing them into place up against the transom at different heights and tap them tight with a hammer. Later I removed them, filled the nail holes in the stringers with resin and tabbed over. Worked good. Used regular clamps along the top of the transom. I used a notched trowel for laying ceramic tiles to spread the PB. I might consider painting the whole inside surface of the transom piece with regular catalyzed resin before hand to seal it well and make a good surface for the PB to chemically bond to.