That is a beautiful job! I'm jealous! I have 1997 Monark Pro 1700 that appears to be the same boat only 2' shorter. I have a question for you. I have some corrosion issues on the port side chine and I need to get to the inside where the bottom of the boat meets the side of the boat where all the rivets are. How hard is it to remove the carpet and anything else so that I can see that rivet area? My damage is between the dash board and the step that has the batterys under it on the port side chine. It's bad enough to where the boat leaks. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Re: Fixing corrosion holes in my 1997 Monark Pro 1700
No, I floated the boat for about an hour and didn't have any leaks in the hull or the live well, bait tanks. The boat is currently at my Mercury dealer having a new 60hp Bigfoot installed. When that is done I'll put it through it's paces and see how it does. Thanks for asking and I'll keep you posted.
Re: Fixing corrosion holes in my 1997 Monark Pro 1700
Ok, good.
But I suspect budski is correct, as were several of the posts above: probably needs to be pulled apart some to confirm the amount (if any) of damage on the interior side.
Re: Fixing corrosion holes in my 1997 Monark Pro 1700
Well guys, here's an update on my corrosion woes. I thought the boat was fine but last Wednesday I went out for about 2 hrs. and made some full throttle runs to break in my new motor which is fantastic. Got back to the launch ramp pulled the boat out. I removed the drain plug and out came about 2 ga. of water. I don't see any obvious holes and the JB weld patches seem to be holding. I think I will have to bite the bullet and tear out the interior and find out for sure what's going on from the inside. One thing I will do is plug all the intakes for the live well and bait tanks to rule them out as a possibility. I did notice that the carpeted right rear storage area was wet. The control cables go through there but the carpet just below the rubber boot was still dry. I don't know if the sides of that compartment are formed by the hull on 2 sides. Maybe the water in the bilge was just spashing up. There is a center inspection panel that I will take out so that I can at least see some of the hull and then take it back to the lake and look for leaks while the boat is under power. How would I know if the structure of the boat has been compromized? Will it steer funny or go over waves weird?
Re: Fixing corrosion holes in my 1997 Monark Pro 1700
Look at the entire hull. Yes PC-11 will work fine and I would also pay special attention to the motor lower mounting bolts. Be certain those are also sealed with 3m5200.
Do you have a livewell????? Livewell plumbing will leak like hell too from the fil, the drain and the pump.
Re: Fixing corrosion holes in my 1997 Monark Pro 1700
The lower motor bolts seem fine. The bolts didn't leak the first time I had it out and didn't leak when the Mercury guys did the first hour of break-in and correct prop install. I do have a live well and 2 bait wells. I'm going to plug them off at the transom where the intakes are to rule them out.
Re: Fixing corrosion holes in my 1997 Monark Pro 1700
Welcome back and I will stick with my original thought. It's nearly impossible for a tin boat to have leaks long term repaired from just the outside but you can stem the tide for a while. Do a leak test in the driveway to see where your issue is.
Re: Fixing corrosion holes in my 1997 Monark Pro 1700
I just got through filling the boat with water, a lot of water. I tipped the boat back and forward and after 2 hours hadn't leaked a drop. I'm wondering if under power the boat flexes and a seam opens up. I'll test on the lake Wednesday. The only other thing I can think of is water splashing up from the motor at speed and going through the control cable boot in the splash well or through the inspection cover. I'll try to get a friend to watch. I'm going to leave the center floor out so that I can see the keel area while motoring around.
Re: Fixing corrosion holes in my 1997 Monark Pro 1700
I was reading a post from months ago (maybe years) and he had a similar problem. He found small cracks in the sealant around his splashwell. So I went out and looked at mine and sure enough there was a thin crack around three sides of the splashwell. This might explain why water was getting into the storage compartment as it shares a side with the splashwell. I also found a screw that holds the transducer wire in place that was not sealed so I sealed it. I hope this helps.
Re: Fixing corrosion holes in my 1997 Monark Pro 1700
have you removed the deck (floor) yet? if not you should, it may have been replaced in the past with treated lumber. if so it will just continue corrode until you get it out. I would want to get at it to see if its treated, if for no other reason, then make repairs from inside while the floor is out
