First Tohatsu motor 9.9HP

[pvanv]

Can I use these values?

Yours should be close.

 

[andreipou]

I am back to this little guy and coil test showed required 0.3 Ohm on primary wiring and no continuity on both secondary wirings.
This is kind of strange.
So far all bad coils I saw had shortened wirings with no or very little resistance , but not "no continuity'.
Am I doing it right?
I am following the manual.
Another thought: I can get coil for $50+ , but all other things like CDI , exciter, pulse coils are NLA.
Is there anything to replace them if needed or will this be a dead end?

 

[andreipou]

Another thing:
After I removed all the "protective" electric tape from the wires I see 2 wire end sticking from under plate.
What can it be?

 

[pvanv]

I am back to this little guy and coil test showed required 0.3 Ohm on primary wiring and no continuity on both secondary wirings.
This is kind of strange.
So far all bad coils I saw had shortened wirings with no or very little resistance , but not "no continuity'.
Am I doing it right?
I am following the manual.
Another thought: I can get coil for $50+ , but all other things like CDI , exciter, pulse coils are NLA.
Is there anything to replace them if needed or will this be a dead end?

You could check with CDI electronics if the CD tests bad.

 

[andreipou]

You could check with CDI electronics if the CD tests bad.

Not sure what you mean, most of my motors have points (old boys). Can you clarify? Tnx.

Also, if it is dead, is there any option to get something that can replace it?

 

[Sea Rider]

Another thing:
After I removed all the "protective" electric tape from the wires I see 2 wire end sticking from under plate. What can it be?

If both cut wires are are coming under the flywheel corresponds to the alternator coil, remove the flywheel and get rid of that particular coil which is producing electricity with exposed cables. Stay just with the exciter coil under the flywheel.

Get a good analog tester with DVA capability and troubleshoot the CDI, Pulser and Exciter coils. Can find aftermarket CDI, exciter coil, don't know about the pulser, will need the part's code to check that out.

Happy Boating​

 

[andreipou]

If both cut wires are are coming under the flywheel corresponds to the alternator coil, remove the flywheel and get rid of that particular coil which is producing electricity with exposed cables. Stay just with the exciter coil under the flywheel.

Get a good analog tester with DVA capability and troubleshoot the CDI, Pulser and Exciter coils. Can find aftermarket CDI, exciter coil, don't know about the pulser, will need the part's code to check that out.

Happy Boating​

I have only 4 or 5 digital testers .
Ordered analog and will do what you say.
The flywheel nut on this guy is really hard to open.
Puller that I have worked on all my motors so far, but this one is tough.
Have to come up with something....

 

[Sea Rider]

If you already have severeal testers, buy a DVA adapter for those to test CDI, Exciter, Pulser coils outputs. Tohatsu uses a tool that locks the flywheel in place for the nut to be removed. Some use a L exagon covered in hard plastic where the short L is placed inside the spak plug hole to lock the piston against it while removing the nut, don't know if this is a safe procedure though ?

Happy Boating​

 

[andreipou]

Finally got new coil (took forever to get).
Put it on - no spark.
I took it off and run manual recommended tests.
It measured 0.2 Ohm on primary winding (the same as old one) and NO CONTINUITY on secondary (the same as old one!) while manual says it has to be 4.1-6.1 KOhm.
Did I get bad new coil or something is not right?
I tried 2 digital and one analog multi-meters.

 

[pvanv]

Secondary to ground is always very high impedance, often shows infinite on ohm meters.
What do your pulser and exciter show?

 

[andreipou]

Secondary to ground is always very high impedance, often shows infinite on ohm meters.
What do your pulser and exciter show?

From my picture you can see that manual says it is only 4K and my multimeter is on 20K scale. I think it should work...

Pulser did pass the book test, but exciter and CD unit did not.
But , I did get strange readings.
I will get from my friend electrician high-end multimeter ( honestly my units are cheap stuff) and retry again.

 

[andreipou]

Exciter passed the test.
Pulser 90% passed.
CD did not.

Is there a chance to get CD for this or adapt some other CD unit?

 

[andreipou]

Web search for 362060601 pulled a few replacement CDIs that look different from mine varying from $151 to $190 (pricy!).
All look like that:

CDI 119-0602 Ignition Modul THT#362060601M - CDI 119-0602 - Ignition Tune Up Kits - Ignition Parts - Engine/Mechanical - Boatersland Marine

Will they work?

 

[pvanv]

When testing the CD, your battery must be 3v or less. If it is 9v, you likely cooked it.
That aftermarket CD may (or may not) be OK. does it have identical connectors? I would ask CDI electronics.

 

[andreipou]

When testing the CD, your battery must be 3v or less. If it is 9v, you likely cooked it.
That aftermarket CD may (or may not) be OK. does it have identical connectors? I would ask CDI electronics.

I wish I knew it before test...
I did not see anything in the manual.
New tester has 3V.
Analog tester has 1.5V.
But, cheap digital had 9V.
On another hand since there was no spark something had to be wrong before test. It could be CD.
Do you know if CD in the link above fits?
It looks very different.

 

[andreipou]

Just saw your new reply.
I will try to contact CDI.

 

[andreipou]

Test for CDI is done when it is actually all connected and motor is cranked.
Is there other way to test it like for exciter and pulser when you disconnect it and measure resistance?

 

[pvanv]

if DVA shows exciter and pulser working, but not output to coil, you likely have a bad CD. This is a really obsolete motor, so if I were working on it, I would consult with CDI electronics if I needed a CD.

 

[andreipou]

Just got reply from CDI that they are not aware of any replacement CD for my motor.
Interesting.
All parts sellers show part# 362060601M (available) as replacement for my part# 362060601 (not available) . I even found instructions on marineengine.com how to change three-prong connector I have for current CDI to single connectors on new CDI.
I wish anyone who might have done it shared the knowledge...

 

[pvanv]

Those are the same part number. The M at the end is not relevant.

362060602M

C.D. IGNITION UNIT (OLD-CU15 KOKUSAN DENKI)-NO LONGER AVAILABLE Part 362060601 was superceded to 362060602M