first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

Noltz

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

The rebuilds I've seen here where laminating a transom together is to use large clamps where possible for no holes. If you use screws, remove them after it's cured and fill the holes. I imagine you don't want screws in there because if they back out they'll protrude into the cabin or worse, pierce the outer hull. I wouldn't leave them in.
 

uniquesnd

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

So did I mess up by using the screws to hold the two pieces together? should I remake them?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

Your choice: screws & leave them or remove & fill the holes.

Don't use any ole drywall screw if you plan to leave them. Use an exterior deck screw or stainless, bury them into the upper sheet so you can skim over the screw head w/ poly resin 'PB'.

Remove the screws & fill the holes w/ the same PB poly resin....

Be aware if you leave them, you run a slight chance of hitting 1 when you run the thru holes for motor bolts, tow eyes, ladder, etc....
 

further

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

I believe WOG has some good info that I've read through on building stringers and transoms in his signature. Screws are ok, but he's recommending to take them out 24-36 hrs after cure and filling with PB. Although I've seen others just use clamps or lay down some heavy objects while it cures.
 

further

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

Jbcurt00 references the link above
 

chconger

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

Does not look like you used a lot of screws. I left mine in, did not use very many (just like you). I used stainless. Not sure what you have there...


If they are not stainless, you may just want to get rid of them all together. Holes filled with epoxy are better than ferrous metal pieces waiting to rust.

No need to remake the transom. The screws finished their work when the glue cured.
 
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uniquesnd

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

glassed my two pieces of 3/4 plywood together today laid two layers of csm down then screwed the two together and put some heavy rocks on it. It was hard to line the two pieces up with the csm between them but i got it real close if it isnt perfect a trip around the router with a flush trim bit will do the trick!



 

uniquesnd

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

How long should I let this cure before removing the screws?
 

further

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

24-36 hrs I've read on here.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

^^^ should be plenty

Note: You want to pre-wet raw wood w/ resin & let it tack off (15min +/-) 1st. Once tacked off, apply additional resin, lay your fiberglass, then fully wet out the glass. This keeps the dry/raw wood from pulling resin away from the glass, and the glass from drawing it away from the wood. Either way could starve the joint of resin & not make a very strong bond. If you remove the screws & the sheets seem well stuck together, I wouldn't be overly concerned.
 

electric603

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Re: first post complete restoration! *PICS* More pics added!

just cut my plywood to start replacing my transom but when I checked it for fit there seems to be a gap between it and the fiberglass. I laid it on the ground in my shop and it laid flat so what gives?
I had the same problem with mine. I had a 3/8" gap in the middle. I ended up taking the belt sander and sanding two ply's from the ends to about 8 inches in. This left me with about 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap in the middle. I let the PB take care of the rest. My transom skin was flat in the center and curved in a little at the sides so sanding the sides of the plywood down worked for me. Not sure if you have the same situation.
 
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