fiberglassing in new floor

[Emerger]

The outside of my transom has hairline cracks in it. Is this just the gelcoat cracking? Or do I have more severe problems? I can get a picture tomorrow, if that would tell you more.

If you're replacing the transom it isn't likely to be a problem. It could either be the gel coat cracking or the glass has cracked because of the rotting transom core. At worst, cracks in a transom can be a sign that the transom needs to be replaced so you have something of a self correcting problem.

A picture will definitely help.

 

[Scott Danforth]

The outside of my transom has hairline cracks in it. Is this just the gelcoat cracking? Or do I have more severe problems? I can get a picture tomorrow, if that would tell you more.

no need, you need a new transom. as stated in the post above, if your floor was rotten enough for you to remove it. the transom and stringers long ago rotted away

 

[JASinIL2006]

The outside of my transom has hairline cracks in it. Is this just the gelcoat cracking? Or do I have more severe problems? I can get a picture tomorrow, if that would tell you more.

Did you ever drill holes to check the integrity of the transom and stringers? You can ask a thousand questions here, but until you check those out by inspecting the wood shavings from the holes, this is all just idle speculation.

 

[78 Thompson]

Did you ever drill holes to check the integrity of the transom and stringers? You can ask a thousand questions here, but until you check those out by inspecting the wood shavings from the holes, this is all just idle speculation.

Did you ever drill holes to check the integrity of the transom and stringers? You can ask a thousand questions here, but until you check those out by inspecting the wood shavings from the holes, this is all just idle speculation.

Yes, the transom is really bad, the stringers look good, except about a 3 inch area where it connects to the transom. For some reason, the top of it, wasn’t covered in fiberglass like the rest.

 

[78 Thompson]

Here are a couple pictures of the back of the transom. I’m just wondering if I have worse problems, with this cracking? Or would it be fine if I replace the transom plywood?

 

[78 Thompson]

So I was thinking the only way to replace the transom is to remove the top cap. So I started looking into removing it, and it looks like the manufacturer used a peanut butter solution to glue the cap to the hull. Has anyone ran into this before? Looks like it will be interesting trying to separate it, anybody have any advice?

 

[GSPLures]

I did not have to remove the top cap for mine so I cannot tell you the best way, but plenty have and can guide you.

For the transom once you have all the rot out you will see if the cracks went all the way through.
It is an easy fix since it must be replaced anyway, and you will already have all the supplies.
If it were mine, even if the cracks do not go all the way through I would put a layer or 2 of 1708 on the hull just to be safe then put your plywood back in and glass accordingly.

 

[78 Thompson]

Just a thought on doing the transom without taking the top cap off. I was thinking maybe if I cut slots in the new plywood for the transom, so it would slip in around the stringers. I might be able to get it in, there are only 2 stringers back there, one on each side of the engine. I would be tying into the stringers with 1708 anyway

 

[GSPLures]

Just a thought on doing the transom without taking the top cap off. I was thinking maybe if I cut slots in the new plywood for the transom, so it would slip in around the stringers. I might be able to get it in, there are only 2 stringers back there, one on each side of the engine. I would be tying into the stringers with 1708 anyway

You said the back of the stringers were rotted. Are you sectioning or replacing them?

 

[78 Thompson]

You said the back of the stringers were rotted. Are you sectioning or replacing them?

Yes I will section in a new piece, but I think it’s only rotted a few inches back. Which wouldn’t allow me to get the new transom in, I would have to go top 1st and slide the bottom in, over the stringers.

 

[GSPLures]

Yes I will section in a new piece, but I think it’s only rotted a few inches back. Which wouldn’t allow me to get the new transom in, I would have to go top 1st and slide the bottom in, over the stringers.

I would check the stringers at a minimum of every 12" for the entire length to be sure. If its wet it will rot. If you can get it in that way I don't see why it would not work. It may be more trouble than its worth though with limited room to work. If you can slip it in you can PB the slots that you cut back in to make it a solid piece again.

 

[78 Thompson]

Yeah I will have to see what it looks like, when I get the engine out, But cutting that cap off doesn’t look like fun either, that’s a long way around if it’s PB’ed all the way around.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Hard to say without seeing the inside of the transom area, but I think it would be easier to cut out the stringers enough to allow you to install the transom, even if you have to cut out more of the stringers than are rotten. (You may find more rot in the stringers than is immediately apparent, anyway, as you cut them out near the transom.)

It really depends on whether removing more of the stringers would allow you to do the work you need while leaving the cap on, though.

 

[KJM]

Yeah, I was thinking it would be easier to cut back the stringers enough to get the transom in without removing the cap. I suspect you will find rot further back then you think, but even if you don't it would still be less work. You need to do some stringer work anyway, just make the new piece a little longer and leave the cap alone. Removing the cap opens another whole can of worms!

 

[76SeaRay]

I removed my stringers back enough to get the transom in and after the new transom was in I removed the stringers around the engine bay. I put in new engine bay stringers and bulkhead. So, today I pulled off the floor up the port side. Although my stringers seemed fine, rot continued forward. My boat has been in dry storage for 5 years now and it still had water under the floor and in the wood. Mine is a 1976. I thought mine would be just a new transom but as you can see, it just kept going. Even where the floor seemed solid, the stringers were bad underneath so check closely. My story is not unlike a lot of others here with even newer boats than ours.

 

[78 Thompson]

I had to pull up some of the foam between the stringers and it is wet at the bottom, soaked like a sponge. I’m not sure if it has been wet all along or if it was me not getting it covered before it rained one night. So now my question is why is it soaking up water, isn’t it suppose to be for floatation? Does the foam just get old and start holding water? I’m guessing this means I need to get this old foam out and put new in, when I get the floor back in?

 

[Chris1956]

Unfortunately, older floatation foam was open cell and absorbed water. Newer floatation foam is closed cell and does not absorb water.

The wet stuff needs to come out and be replaced with the new, closed cell, pour in foam.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Even old closed-cell foam can be compromised and absorb water, especially if the foam was exposed to water and went thru freeze-thaw cycles.

If the foam is wet, odds are good that any wood structure (even if encased in fiberglass) is also wet, so be sure drill some core samples to see if your stringers and bulkhead in the vicinity are sound.

 

[wheller]

Epoxy resin is quite expensive, but it has superior quality and durability. While. Polyester resin can cure with a tack; you won't have to sand between layers. There are some tips you should notice when cleaning the boat floor: For the primer coat, you should work at 60 degrees and below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. covered all floors with fiberglass. It is advisable to have an overlap of 1 inch.

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