Fiberglass or Bondo over aluminum??

[MTboatguy]

My 67 Mirrocraft is a lapstruck aluminum, it is simply a pressed in pattern, which if done correctly add rigidness to the boat, if you need, I have the inside of my stripped and can take photos of both the outside and the inside in the AM so you can see what your boat should look like.

(I was just noticing, things don't seem right today, none of the topics are updating on the main forum page and now I am a conflicted seaman, it says Captain under my name and my insignia is saying I am a Rear Admiral, hmm, go figure)

 

[Jeep Man]

This will be an interesting fix. Not to be picky, but I have an old Mirro and always thought the term was "lapstrake". Which is correct?

 

[MTboatguy]

I was under the impression that "Lapstrake" was a wood boat construction method and it became "Lapstruck" when the ability to form metal with presses came around, so I guess we could both be right or perhaps both be wrong? Seems both could be right or wrong, depending on how you look at it.

 

[64osby]

This will be an interesting fix. Not to be picky, but I have an old Mirro and always thought the term was "lapstrake". Which is correct?

Jeep - I looked back at the Lone Star literature and you are correct. It is and should be Lapstrake according to that.

Also didn't see any reference or definition for lapstruck on the www.:D

 

[SHickey]

Thank you all again for your input.

This morning I looked very closely at the starboard side of the boat and I can see exactly where this "fix"started and where it ended about mid-ships on the side.

The advice @ using a heat gun and a putty knife is most welcome. At least I don't need to strip the port side of the boat except the paint for paint prep. The front quarter starboard side is definitely the problem area and until I remove the bondo or whatever the material is, I don't know exactly what I am dealing with.

I did also notice a dent about 6" in diam and @ a 1/2 " deep midships just above the bottom/side rivet seam which may explain more considerable damage above and into the front quarter side area.

If only tin cans could talk, I would love to listen to this dock or collision story

Anyway, thanks again and I will keep adding pictures of the damage as it gets uncovered. Repairing aluminum Lapstrake is something I have no experience with.

 

[SHickey]

Well I was doing some clean out work on the Mirrocraft over the weekend, I removed the "homemade" cabin enclosure doorway, the ford bucket seats, the shag carpet covering the cabin ceiling, the v berth cushions and the "golden rod" carpet covering the cabin walls and floor.

Upon removing these coverings, I discovered an array of dents, welds, and some internal structural repairs this old lady must have underwent in her early days. I will end up removing the v berth cushion framing and the flotation to examine what kind of damage this boat had sustained in the past.

I hope that I will be able to work out the dents and dings and possibly rework the Lapstrake to make it appear as close to original as possible. I have not started to remove the bondo from the exterior yet because there are only so many surprises I can take in one day

I will attach more pictures and I open her up in the bow section.

 

[Woodonglass]

Any progress is always good!!!

 

[Scott Danforth]

remember, dents in aluminum can be pounded out with a decent set of body hammers and dollies. cant do that with GRP

 

[oldsub86]

Can you tell, from the inside, how bad the dent is?
The PO obviously was trying to fair the hull and that has to mean there is damage to the hull.
I don't know how difficult it might be to make the hull look good again.
I suspect that you might be better off to look for some form of filler that will better stick to the aluminum and repair it in a similar manner.
I think I would also suggest that you not put a whole lot of money and effort into this hull.
Fix it, enjoy it, and then move on to a better hull.
Some things are just not worth what it takes to restore them to "like new".

The boat is never going to be all that valuable, no matter what you do with it.

I am in a similar situation with an old Lund. It had a tree fall on it and was repaired by the PO. He also put bondo over one area in an effort to improve the look and it is coming off in big pieces. I am going to see if I can make it better, but I know that the boat will never be worth much more than the scrap value of the parts as most buyers will be reluctant to buy if they know what happened to it. I paid the value of the trailer it sat on and then sold the trailer so I have no real money in it. The motor appears to be ok and it came with a complete spare outdrive so even if I part it out, I should do ok but I like the boat and have not found another in any better condition so I do plan to put some effort into it. But, I have to restrain myself because I doubt I will increase its value by much.

I think you are in the same "boat". Don't put too much into it, It is not an antique Cris Craft that might be sold for enough to cover your time and materials.

 

[oldsub86]

Forum updates seem a bit slow?
I wrote my post in response and then discovered some new posts had come up that I had not seen. So, some of what I asked has been answered. You have noted damage from the inside.

 

[SHickey]

Well

It's about time (2 years later) I started to refurbish this beast I still have I in my back yard. I am going to strip off the excessive bondo on the starboard side and hope to get this tub in the water by next spring. I had the motor running pretty well until the shifter interior frame cracked and broke in half. I have a new shifter coming from e bay tomorrow and I want to reattach the outdrive and fire up the motor again. I have just replaced the prop shaft seals for the first time and I am hoping there will be no leaks coming out of the outdrive.

Before I 100% commit myself to this endeavor, I wanted to ask what the best way there is to check the condition of the transom. I assume the transom is constructed with thick marine grade plywood encased in aluminum. I don't really want to drill holes into the lower portion of the transom to check the condition of the plywood unless it is absolutely necessary. Are there any other methods for checking the condition of my transom??

All responses are most welcome and be safe on the water.

SH