Fairing compound on new deck?

[BJR2]

I'm in the middle of replacing a rotted floor and was wondering about the final surface prep. My plan is to use AC or BC plywood with a layer of 2.0oz CSM on top. I had carpet but am skipping that in favor of Rustoleum topside paint with ant-slip additive. My question is - will the surface be smooth enough without fairing or will any of the contour of the fiberglass bleed through?

I'm a novice fiberglasser but this looks pretty straightforward.

Thanks in advance!

Bryan

 

[JASinIL2006]

You will see the CSM print through. I covered my deck with 6 oz. woven - fairly fine stuff - and it was clearly visible and I'm sure it would have shown through paint. I used fairing compound to smooth it out. Not a lot of work, but a nicer look, I think.

 

[Woodonglass]

Welcome to iBoats!
If you use, 2oz CSM you won't have any noticable pattern in your glass. Where are you getting 2oz CSM It's not all that common. What are you tabbing the deck to the hull with? What kind of resin are you using? What boat? We like Pics!!!!

 

[zool]

2oz over AC ply would be ideal, do all your fairing before you lay the mat, then sand the top surface before you apply the paint system/grit....

 

[BJR2]

Welcome to iBoats!
If you use, 2oz CSM you won't have any noticable pattern in your glass. Where are you getting 2oz CSM It's not all that common. What are you tabbing the deck to the hull with? What kind of resin are you using? What boat? We like Pics!!!!

I'm not sure if I can mention suppliers by name per the rules but it's an online vendor. Not very popular from what I can tell but the prices were good and he seems legit. Small shop but I figured he'd be more likely to give me advice if I needed it.

As for tabbing I was simply going to run the CSM oversize and run that up the sides ~3". I thought using a 6" strip around the outside would cause more issues with the smoothing. I am using epoxy resin.

The boat is a very simple tri-hull made by Troller Inc out of Butler, PA in 1986. There are no stringers but rather they used the hulls to support the floor.










I think I know the best answer and that's going to be to test it on a piece of scrap. I don't want to paint it then figure out I hate it but I am not all that picky.

Bryan

 

[zool]

Since youre using epoxy, skip the csm, or switch to polyester. For epoxy, use light weight cloth, and skim coat on top of the cloth to fill the weave.

 

[jigngrub]

What zool said^^^

I would at least run 1 tab and tape any joints in the decking first.

The 8.5 oz. twill fiberglass e cloth looks interesting for it's conformability.

SM fairing compound powdered filler is an excellent mix, easy to mix and sand.

Whatever your deck looks like before you paint is what it's going to look like after it's painted. Fairing and sanding will make the difference between a deck that looks like utility deck (nothing fancy and nothing to look at) and a professional looking installation.

 

[BJR2]

What zool said^^^

I would at least run 1 tab and tape any joints in the decking first.

The 8.5 oz. twill fiberglass e cloth looks interesting for it's conformability.

SM fairing compound powdered filler is an excellent mix, easy to mix and sand.

Whatever your deck looks like before you paint is what it's going to look like after it's painted. Fairing and sanding will make the difference between a deck that looks like utility deck (nothing fancy and nothing to look at) and a professional looking installation.

Would it hurt anything if I'd already bought the 2 oz CSM and used it? Still need separate tabbing? (1708 or a strip of 2oz?) I'm planning on using PB to fillet the inside corners.

What sort of coverage should I expect on the SM Fairing compound? The deck is 35 sq ft but I may like it and do the sides, too.

Thanks, all. I didn't plan on getting this much info!

Bryan

 

[jigngrub]

If you already have the materials go ahead and use them.

The SM fairing compound coverage will vary according to the texture you have to cover. You can figure a 1:1 mix ratio for the SM and epoxy for a good workable mix.

What brand and mix ratio epoxy resin are you using? 1:1 West system? 3:1 USComposites? Thin or thick?

 

[zool]

It wont "hurt", unless its the only glass you use to secure the deck. Like Jig said, you will want to tab in the seams and edges with a cloth, e-glass or whatever. The epoxy lacks styrene to dissolve the orientated mat, so your finish will be less than desirable.

Maybe you could return the mat to the small shop and exchange it for cloth, and ask why they sold you epoxy and csm to set a boat deck....

 

[BJR2]

If you already have the materials go ahead and use them.

The SM fairing compound coverage will vary according to the texture you have to cover. You can figure a 1:1 mix ratio for the SM and epoxy for a good workable mix.

What brand and mix ratio epoxy resin are you using? 1:1 West system? 3:1 USComposites? Thin or thick?

It is called FS-A23 and it's a medium cure and low viscosity epoxy. (Googling it will lead you to the supplier)

Would a 6.0 oz e-glass do the trick? Can I buy it oversized and cut strips for tabbing or can it be one continuous piece up the sides?

 

[jigngrub]

6 oz will be kinda light, but it'll work. I'd do 2 layups of that. A 6" piece laping on the hull and deck 3" and then a 12" piece laping 6" on the deck and hull.

Cutting your own tabbing tape is much cheaper than but the already cut rolls.

 

[BJR2]

6 oz will be kinda light, but it'll work. I'd do 2 layups of that. A 6" piece laping on the hull and deck 3" and then a 12" piece laping 6" on the deck and hull.

Cutting your own tabbing tape is much cheaper than but the already cut rolls.

And then a single layer of 6oz in the field?

I can do that.