Evinrude ficht bombardier problems

[crotalis40741]

I am sorry if this is a repeat from another thread. But I have read and not found an answer.
I have a 2003 evinrude ficht 175 bombardier. E175FPLSTB.
we took the boat out on a Saturday and everything was fine . The next morning at home the tilt trim wasn't working. Also discovered the motor will not crank.
I can run a jumper on the solenoid and it will crank.
I have checked fuses, relays and connections to no avail.
I replaced the main power relay also.
I have called the 2 local repair shops and they don't want to touch the motor . Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Crosbyman]

simultaneous electrical failure seems to point to a blown fuse or broken wire…. better yet a proper ground from the battery to the engine since both starting and trimming voltages will need to reach that common ground

both functions should be not to hard to nail down

assuming good electrical connectons at the battery and a good battery the next step would be to confirm that the key in START mode does send +12 to the selenoid….to power the starter if not trace back the +12 from the key and from the key back to the engine (check for neutral safety feature)

same goes for trim and tilt relays they need +12 power from the toggle switches and...a good ground

since tilt & trim don't usually involve a neutral safety feature I would concentrate on a grounding issue affecting both failed functions.

btw "checking" involves… measuring voltages and fuse continuity !!

jmho...

 

[crotalis40741]

Thank you

 

[crotalis40741]

Would the main computer going bad also cause these issues?

 

[Crosbyman]

I doubt the EMM would mess with basic cranking or T&T issues please read up on the similar topic.... just a few below yours on the web iboats page


"

2003 Johnson 50 blowing Starter/Power Tilt fuse"

​

 

[flyingscott]

That article has nothing to do with a Ficht motor. Look for fuses blown and and/or a broken wire or any bad connectors. What you have found out is your motor has the same support for repairs as my 75 mcculloch does. Unlike my Mcculloch it is almost impossible for you to work on yourself. Unless you can fix it for cheap it is not worth fixing. The Ficht motors have lost so much of there value because of there reputation, that most repairs are more than the motor is worth. If it was mine I would look at replacing the motor if it is not a simple fix.

 

[Crosbyman]

unless I am wrong the referenced topic related more to basic wiring and trouble shooting …and wasn't concentrating of solving FICHT issues per say

I don't think the complexities of being a FICHT or any other complex EMM controlled fuel and ignition system should discourage tracking down a wiring problem like cranking or T&T .

I have no FICHT knowledge to say if FICHT complexities are involved here but I for one would certainly track down anything to do with basic wires and circuitry before giving up since Crotalis does not mention anything defective other than T&T and cranking

hopefully nothing more than a simple fix will get it going for many more years of boating

 

[crotalis40741]

We have been tracking power and wires on the motor all morning. There is power at the main relay but nothing coming out of it. No power to the main fuse and relay panel .
power on the battery side of solenoid which also feeds the main power relay and main computer.
I have replaced the main power relay and other fuses .
it is looking like the computer is the issue .
I have read all over the net trying to find issues because these seem to keep popping up but none of the replies I have read elsewhere have helped.
I really appreciate all the responses

 

[crotalis40741]

We put a voltage tester on the key switch it will start at 0 and rise. Turn the key drops back to 0. Then build again .

 

[flyingscott]

You need to find a dealer that has the software to scan it. Or try and get something off of the internet. There is nothing basic about a FICHT motor. It could be something as simple as a neutral safety switch or the emm. Go buy the correct factory manual or service manual for your engine.

 

[Crosbyman]

the selenoid control wire at the start switch should become energized with a good strong 12volt in start mode

to do so the main key assembly must have a good strong 12v source coming from the " back of the boat"
so make certain you are getting good +12 via any neutral or safety features along the way if any !

meters are funny sometimes they may indicate 12V but in effect that 12volt can be received from a highly resistive

oxydized (corroded)​

joint and that 12volt would not deliver enough amps to drive a coil or relay etc..

you must split the issues 50/50 to determine which side the problem is located.

at the switch… apply a good batt +12v on the start (selenoid control wire) much like you did at the back end on the selenoid

if the selenoid responds you know the control wire is good all the way to the selenoid yet… the 12volts delivered by the switch may be weak

find the wire on the switch getting 12v from the distribution panel and short it across to the start post of the switch
if the selenoid operates ..and starter you know that 12volts is powerful enough into the switch +12 post

if the selenoid does not operate when turning the key the key internal contacts are likely oxidized and transferring a weak 12volts which is what you measured on the control wire

if the switche's 12 volts shorted at the switch start post does not energized the selenoid …. find out why by working backwards

sometimes using a test lamp will clue you in faster because even with 12volts present the test lamp may not light up at all

or partially ​

indicating the 12 volts is to resistive or you are getting simple 12 volt leakage flowing back via another component

unfortunately ..you really need a wiring diagram for this stuff but my gut feel is you have a bad connection or fuse

measure all fuses with an ohmmeter they must read 0 ohms

polish & secure all connections involving 12v distribution

keep at it !

btw…. «2

We have been tracking power and wires on the motor all morning. There is power at the main relay but nothing coming out of it. No power to the main fuse and relay panel ???? .«

without distributed power seems critical .......can you inspect the main power relay and determine why it is not doing it's job ??
it should itself have a control wire….​

 

[Faztbullet]

Motor will not crank if kill tether is off..if its OK then the PDP panel has broken a solder joint which is a common problem

 

[Crosbyman]

fatzbullet may be on to something !!!

in this diagram of a PDP (let's call it a generic PDP) the main +12v is seen entering the PDP and feeds the T&T circuit with no relationship to FICHT complexities . Presumably… T&T should work fine even with a dead EMM because the T&T motor is simply fed battery and grounds directly…. or reversed by the T&T relays.

solid +12v power is also returned out to the ignition switch via a fuse

that 12v should get sent over to the starter selenoid in start mode. Assuming the fuse is ok and since your selenoid does not " pull -up" it is reasonable to think the PDP is not handling that pure... unfused +12v due to a cracked solder joint
somewhere between it's feed source ( typically a tap of the +12V post of the selenoid) and the PDP

find that +12v to the PDP and find out why it does not exit back out to the start switch (probing the "ignition" fuse socket with the fuse OUT……. should show solid +12 on one side the other side going out to the start switch. the fuse must be 0 ohms . if you do see +12 replace the fuse and go check it at the switch B post

BTW since your T&T is not working the "generic" PDP layout shows that the main GROUND needed to work the T& T relays and motor is directly fed from the PDP ….. DO check the ground circuitry on your PDP. You can also feed +12v and ground to your T&T directly or reversed to operate the motor and isolate the problem back into the PDP side

 

[Crosbyman]

btw why not try some shakedown testing .... operate your dead T&T switches (either up or down) and have a buddy turn the key to start and hold it....


skake push prod all the wiring you can get at to see if anything reacts while holding the T&T and START ..... ON

Tap the PDP panel gently but firmly ... if anything comes alive you found the problem !

 

[Crosbyman]

more info on bad solder joints on the PDP causing T&T failures

https://community.evinrude.com/t5/O...Problem/td-p/27127/page/2?device-view=desktop

 

[Crosbyman]

better diagram to follow your +12 and grounds

to test the continuity and presence of good ground and +12v you can remobe the plug for the T&T and probe the PDP

while tilting UP or DOW your voltmeter should show +12v and ground …. then the same value but reversed in polarity

the reversing polarity is was drives the T&T motor to push UP or down

if this does not check out OK..concentrate your search in the PDP If good +12 & ground appear on the input posts on the diagram

they should show up on your T&T connector on the PDP while activating your tilt switches

since the starter selenoid and engine start are both dead concentrate first on the +12v B+ paths looking for breaks

p.s. I may be off line for a few days

 

[GA_Boater]

crotalis40741

Have you made any progress since your last post?