Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

When time permits, visit my store (copy/paste) at: stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc

 

[Lakester]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

dj sed: "The easiest way to check the head gaskets is to look at the spark plugs. If one or more are real clean, you have a water leak into the cylinder(s)."

--------------------

good thread/posts on cylinder heads, water jackets and head gaskets, not to mention cooling system/parts. tips a-plenty, too.

good info and appreciated. these are the areas, aside from all the rest... lol~ that i am working on re: 1971 85HP evinrude. my Buy Inspection; part III will be up soon addressing these areas on my engine.

thanks

lakester

 

[pdrayton]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

Water deflector seems a strange name for a piece of hose. Thanks for the explanation Joe, I'll definately have a go at making my own - I spend a fair amount of time at the auto parts store anyway, so I may as well grab some 3/8 hose and save a few dollars.

I'll post back when I'm done. will try to get some pics for noobs to gawk at, like I would have...

 

[flabum]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

CAn you tell I'm not crazy about pulling the heads?

Actually, the heads will be the easiest thing to do.....the thermostats will be a pain if that motor has seen salt water.

 

[pdrayton]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

It's seen a lot of salt water. I don't know where the boat's eyes are, but I"m sure it's seen it.

But the thermo housing only has 3 bolts, how bad can it be? (famous last words). Do I need to buy the gaskets for the thermo housing?

 

[guy74]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

Those three bolts can be alot of work. I've only worked on one motor that as been in salty water, a 1981 evinrude that was used in the slightly salty waters in western KS. I didn't have much trouble getting the housing off, but I work with frozen-corroded parts all the time. I simply cut the heads of the two bolts that wouldn't turn with a dremal tool, used plenty penitrating oil and patience. On it the bolts were frozen into the housing, not the threads in the motor. We were replacing the water pump at the same time, the new pump kit came with new bolts, so I used the old pump bolts to put the thermastat housing back together. It helps to take the lower cowling bolts out and lower it slightly, gives you more room to work on the thermastats. Better use new gaskets or it will probably leak. We got all our parts for that motor here on iboats, but if you are wanting to get it going this weekend, better find them locally.
Goodluck,
Brian

 

[pdrayton]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

Thanks Guy, I'll lower that cowling. Yes, I need the stuff for this weekend. I just got the boat, and also just got the fishing bug, so it's desperation stakes for the noob!

I'm going to spray some oil on those 3 thermo bolts tonight and let them think about their fate....

 

[Solittle]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

On the three bolts for the T-stat cover - I use a 1/4" drive with a universal and a long e3xtension for the top bolt. For the lower two I go at them with a thin walled box wrench from underneath - you need to remove the rear plastic cover just below the pan.

It can be a bitc* to reassenble. Follow the directions exactly. I use rubber bands or t wraps to hold the assembly together as the sealer cures a tad. It helps to have someone to give you a hand on reassembly.

 

[pdrayton]

NO thermostats?!!???

NO thermostats?!!???

I got the thermostat housing off (thanks Solittle for the tip - I got at the bolts from the bottom using a filed down box wrench so it could do a quarter turn). See the pics attached.

And there are no thermostats in there. No pressure valves either (see the attached picture).

So what the heck does that mean? Is this engine maybe not supposed to have thermostats?

Other info we've got so far:

1. I ran the engine with slight water pressure from the ears and the water comes out evenly from each of the exits where the hoses go from the cylinder to the thermostat housing. I know you can't really test with muffs, but that seemed like at least it provides some information.

2. With the thermostat housing off, I put a hose into the left most hole in the engine base that is exposed, and water flows out the holes at the bottom of the engine (the drains). However when I put the same hose in the right hole, the water just sprays back out, like it is blocked. But, the stupid manual doesn't show anything that indicates what the water flow path is. I'm quite dissapointed with the manual - come on - to get the thermostat housing off it just says "remove the screws", geez, no kidding!

So what's the deal? Should I have thermostats, and should the right hand most hole be letting water through and down to the LU drain holes?

Thanks

 

[ezeke]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

Earlier, Flabum correctly described the flow of water from the pump. It goes up and through the engine when the thermostats allow it and otherwise is diverted or stays in the block until the thermostats reopen.

Without thermostats, the engine is always running too cold, which is bad for the engine, because the cooling water would constantly circulate through the cooling passages.

Now you have an additional problem of blockage within the engine which is causing the lack of flow on one side.

At some point, the built up salt or calcium visible in the photos should be removed. If it is sea salt, a product called Salt-Away will remove it. If it is calcium, it will be more difficult.

 

[pdrayton]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

I'll taste the white stuff and let you know! NOT. It's probably salt - this boat is on the coast in florida. We don't do calcium here. We do salt, beer and beat up pickups.

The latest drama is I can't get the LU off. I've spent the last 3 hours trying to get the gear shift shaft to separate from the cable thing by the carbureter. At first the problem was that it was in forward, not reverse. But now it is in reverse, but the LU will only drop a few inches and then it gets stuck up top with the shaft - it just won't come out. I have the pin out of the shaft thing and have pushed it over. I've even disconnected the cable and pushed and pulled and screamed and cried. Nothing. Had to consult Captain Morgan for advice and solace.

Help! What am Idoing wrong, why will the LU not separate from the top? Is the whole long thing supposed to come out, all the way from the engine to the LU? Or does it disconnect somewhere and only half come out.

There is a slight glimmer of hope - the insides that I can see of the LU is pretty sandy and gunky, so there is a good chance that cleaning it out will make a difference.

Anybody know if the right hand side hole in the thermostat housing should be open and flow to the LU discharge?

Thanks
Paul

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

Are you SURE that the shift rod is now completely free?

If the driveshaft is hung up in the crankshaft due to corrosion, you will need to play with it a little, and working the shift rod up and down.

Just beware when it does free up it will drop, and drop fast. Always remove the prop when servicing the lower unit.

 

[ezeke]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

"but the LU will only drop a few inches and then it gets stuck up top with the shaft"

If the gearcase is dropping even 1.5 inches, it is not the driveshaft. The shift rod is still connected.

Look under the carbs to the center point, port to starboard, and you will see the top of the shift rod. It is either free or not.

 

[flabum]

Re: NO thermostats?!!???

Re: NO thermostats?!!???

2. With the thermostat housing off, I put a hose into the left most hole in the engine base that is exposed, and water flows out the holes at the bottom of the engine (the drains). However when I put the same hose in the right hole, the water just sprays back out, like it is blocked.
Thanks

If the "hole" you are talking about is the hose barb at the bottom of the cylinder head, the the blockage is in the powerhead.....pull the cylinder head and check the water passages and the DEFLECTORS LOL


Also, you will need to get all the parts for the thermostat housing: two of everything: thermostats, relief valves, springs, gaskets, thermostat cork gaskets and rubber bushings.

 

[guy74]

Re: NO thermostats?!!???

Re: NO thermostats?!!???

If it's dropping down anything close to an inch then it's not stuck in the crankshaft. Did you pull out the (hairpin #17) on the right side of the motor, and push the (shift lever#58) toward the center?

http://www.crowleymarine.com/brp_parts/diagrams/28820.cfm

 

[TD_Maker]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

How bad can it be? Wow, famous last words huh? The problem is GETTING to the thermostat housing to work on it. Getting it off is usually no problem, but putting it all back on correctly with the thermostats, springs, gaskets, etc... fighting you in an extremely confined space is the problem. However, it can be done with some patience. I uses a trick found here on iboats. Try using rubber bands to hold it all together and remove them just before tightening the housing down.

For what it is worth: The rubber hose diverters are absolutely necessary in order to keep the cooling system working correctly. Also, I found that once I cleaned out the water jackets and heads of salt build-up (with the heads off) the motor circulated much better, and the tell-tale stream was much stronger as well.

The 88SPL is a great motor. Don't give up on it!

 

[pdrayton]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

I eventually got the LU off by putting the engine in neutral and then pushing the connecting rod across. In reverse, the rod couldn't move far enough over to disengage the shift rod.

So, then I had a great amount of fun messing with the bolt that broke off in the LU when I took the water pump off. Got to go, will post more later.

 

[pdrayton]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

You guys also forgot to tell me how much fun it is putting the new water pump back together and getting that impeller into the base while keeping the gasket that is too big from falling out of the bottom.

Oh yes, and it started raining while I was doing it... lovely...plus Captain Morgan had taken for a wild ride the night before so my hands and head weren't all that steady. All in all, some of the shine of owning a boat has faded. If the dam thing will run, I'm there. If not, I might have to take a nap instead.

So, what to pay attention to as a noob is:

The connecting rod at the bottom of the carburetor must be pushed all the way over. You will know when it is far enough when the sliding part is flush against it's casing.

Try putting the impeller into the housing before putting it on the drive shaft. I put the impeller on the shaft first and then had hassles with getting the impeller in and the gasket in the right place.


So, tomorrow is the day it is going out to see how it did. If it overheats, I'm going to measure which head is too hot and then pull that head gasket and check the deflectors. It could also be that the sensor is bad - I only remember reading about 125F (may have been 165F) on the hot head. THe manual says 165F is too hot, so I'll have to check again how hot it does get. )
I backflushed the heck out of the engine while I had the LU off. Water flowed easily out of each head and the pee hole. So we'll see.

Thanks for all the help everyone, I would have been you know where without a you know what without it.

Paul

 

[reeldutch]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

sometimes after the motor has been sitting for a wile Even with brand new t stats the motor will overheat.

what sometimes happens is that an airpocket gets trapped just before the tstat.
so hot water doesn flow trough the tstats and they will never open. because the air pocket doesnt transfer the right amount of heat.

what you do in that case is pull the 2 hoses of the thermostat housing and run the moter.

you will see lots of water flowing out just hook them back on and it should be ok.

sometimes.

just give it a try before pulling the tstats out every year.

 

[pdrayton]

Re: Evinrude 88 SPL overheating (pics)

Yeah, that would apply if mine had thermostats! SOmeone removed them. SO I have to get some and put them in, when I'm feeling enthusiastic again. Might be a while. A local here said people in Fl are known to remove the Tstats. Florida, not exactly the intellectual capital of the world.

Anyway, the one *question* I do have, is whether there should be unrestricted flow down the right hand side hole of the exhaust housing The hole that would correspond to the starboard thermostat hole, except it is in the exhaust housing. I put a rubber hose in it and a garden hose to force water down it and it was much less flow than through the port side same hole.

Paul