Evinrude 85293r Wireing Control Box

[DoingTheBestICan]

Today I tested the voltage at the switch and back at the motor and here is the readings I got.
At the Switch in forward. No voltage on anything

At the switch in neutral Green wire has 12 volts.

At the switch reverse Blue wire has 12 Volts and Green Wire has 12 Volts.

Back at the motor in Neutral 12 volts on the Green

At the motor again in Reverse there was 12 Volts on the Green and on the Blue there was 11.31 Volts.

Would my next move be go into the lower unit and look at the solenoid or is there something I should test befor assuming it’s the solenoid ?

 

[F_R]

Check the resistance of the solenoids by disconnecting the wires at the powerhead and connect your meter to the leads that run down to the lower unit. Should show 5-6 Ohms.

Those solenoids are not near as troublesome as people think they are.

Your voltage checks appear normal. Almost too normal. Are you checking them with the wires connected at the motor? You should.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Yes that is correct, I tested them with the wires connected to the motor.

 

[F_R]

Sounds good then. As for me, at this point, I would use a jumper wire to connect directly from the battery + to the disconnected green and then green+blue wires (at the motor) and see if it shifts

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Ok let me see if I understand this correctly. Take a random wire run it to the + of my battery and connect it to the blue and green wire at the same time? That is without the motor running I am assuming.

 

[racerone]

Motor has too be turning in order to shift.-----I test them on the workbench.-----With 12 volts to green it shifts to neutral after 1 turn. of the driveshaft------It shifts to reverse with 12 volts to both wires after 2 turns.

 

[F_R]

Ok let me see if I understand this correctly. Take a random wire run it to the + of my battery and connect it to the blue and green wire at the same time? That is without the motor running I am assuming.

Yes, blue and green at the same time produces reverse. Green (only) produces neutral. No connection is forward. Motor must be running or at least rotating. That is because the actual shifting is done by oil pressure from an oil pump in the nose of the gearcase. Obviously, if not running, no oil pressure because pump is not rotating.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

I will try that this weekend. I will leave it on the boat and start the motor attach the wires and see what happens.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Doing a little reading tonight and I was reading about the Shift Diode on the motor. Could this be causing my problem? I am going to do the other test tomorrow but I was looking to what else I could test?

 

[F_R]

Doing a little reading tonight and I was reading about the Shift Diode on the motor. Could this be causing my problem? I am going to do the other test tomorrow but I was looking to what else I could test?

Somehow, I knew that question was going to come up. To save a lot of typing, let's just say that diode on the motor keeps it from instantly jumping into forward gear as soon as you turn the key switch to "off" position. It is annoying, but harmless if it should be doing that.

My goal in getting you to try the jumper wire test is to isolate the problem to something internal in the gearcase or something external. No sense in chasing something that isn't broken.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Ok I will do the test today and report back. One last question about the test. Should I connect the wires to the blue and green and then crank the motor or crank the motor first then connect the wires? I’m not to mechanically inclined I’m just learning as I go. I don’t want to do something that’s going to do it wrong and damage something else or make things worse, thank you again for your help.

 

[racerone]

It does not matter which way you do this !

 

[F_R]

True, the motor doesn't care how you do it. However, if the motor is running first, you will be able to observe and hear the shift taking place each time you connect the wires.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

I did the test today. I cranked the engine and of course it is in forward, I attached a wire jumper to the green wire then I attached it to the positive of a 12V battery and the prop continued to spin in forward. No neutral or reverse . I plugged the wires back up as normal went to the controls and cranked the engine again and I still get neutral fine from The selector switch and also forward and no reverse.

 

[F_R]

That just doesn't make sense. Sorry, I don't have an answer for that

 

[F_R]

The battery negative was grounded, right??

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

I told you I wasn’t mechanically inclined lol . I’m guessing that i Should I have hooked the jumper wire to the positive of the battery in the boat? I had an extra battery so I just put it beside the engine and just attached it to the positive terminal. There was nothing on the ground of that battery. I was thinking the ground would come from the battery inside the boat.

 

[F_R]

Well, there ya go... Attach your jumper to the boat battery.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Will do, I will try and ge the boat out today an test it depending on the rain here in NC. .

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

I did the test right this morning, I disconnected the wires and attached leads to them connecting them to my battery in the boat. When I attached the green wire I got neutral when I attached the blue wire It didn't go into reverse it stayed in neutral.