That ring looks like you messed up the disassembly and reassembly, and left a part out, as I suggested. Back in post 46.
Better pull it back apart and make sure that you have the correct washer in the prop shaft assembly, as I previously noted.
Specifically, confirm that you have the special washer that fits between the C bevel gear and the clutch dog, as I previously noted. Back in post 46. Again.
Oh yeah, there is also a shim that rides as a thrust washer ahead of the bevel gear A. But that has a larger ID, as it fits on the gear hub.
Still, better confirm that you have it all assembled properly. Again.
"it popped out as I removed the oil seal....not on any parts diagram...between the bearing and the seal somewhere...between 22-1 and 22-4 on the diagram."
No. You were so ham-fisted, that you dropped it when pulling the prop shaft out, and then found it after driving the prop shaft seal out.
It is on the parts diagram. And I identified it for you -- complete with part number -- several posts ago.
But you are such an unqualified dolt that you failed to notice it... and even after my advice and scolding, you failed to reinstall it.
So my advice now is to pull the LU apart, and install the 369640320M washer correctly.
As an alternative, you could take/ship the LU to a qualified technician.
Or, if you prefer... continue to ignore our professional help, and just fire it up and blow it up.
Then buy a new LU.
They are in stock. Part number 3V1Q873015. MSRP is about $730. Your option.
Yes, horrible short cut.
There is absolutely no way that a grinder does the job of a sandblasting.
You want to clean the entire surface, not just the sections that have cancer already.
It is at best a band aid that you might use if you were in a 3rd world area and had no other option.
There is absolutely no way that failing to etch the bare aluminum is acceptable prep.
Self-etching primer might help, but is a poor substitute.
It is at best a band aid that you might use if you were in a 3rd world area and had no other option.
There is absolutely no way that zinc primer is the equivalent of epoxy.
For one thing, it is water-permeable, and the LU will corrode under it.
It is at best a band aid that you might use if you were in a 3rd world area and had no other option.
There is absolutely no way that West Marine CFA Eco is the equivalent of Coppercoat.
It will not hold up well, and it will not keep mussels from attaching for very long. It's poorly rated.
It is at best a band aid that you might use if you were in a 3rd world area and had no other option.
There is absolutely no way that the wrong spark plugs were a good idea.
It is at best a band aid that you might use if you were in a 3rd world area and had no other option.
Since you are not adequately educated/qualified, you need to get a qualified marine or auto electric technician on site to troubleshoot the choke -- or at least ask intelligent questions and follow professional advice instead of obtusely insisting that you have a clue. If you were even remotely qualified, you would not have those basic Ohm's law questions. Right now, you don't know whether you are delivering the proper signal to the choke solenoid when you want to, and you aren't sure whether the solenoid coil is good or bad, nor do you know that the ground wire from the coil is attached to frame ground. You don't use proper troubleshooting techniques, and you don't understand the test results when you see them.
We can't pound training into your head, but please don't ignore and challenge the professionals in areas where you don't have a clue.
