Elbow and exhaust manifold inspection what do you think?

[Kubaat3lover]

fresh water only, what do you think? I did test with acetone and no issues, I was wondering about flush with some acid or WD40 only
Take care

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... As good as new,...

 

[Kubaat3lover]

Looks like from 2005 I’ve got stickers with serials etc,
I was wondering about some flush and paint refresh

 

[Lou C]

Yep they look good, just clean up the sealing surfaces, I like to give mine a brush on coat of Rustoleum paint, because it holds up well in the salt air where my boat lives.
I took off my 4 year old Barr manifolds to replace the steering actuator behind the engine and they looked great, probably because I did not use the boat nearly as much as I have in past years.

 

[Kubaat3lover]

I read somewhwre That sealing surfaces has to be clean, bare metal (??)

 

[Lou C]

Yes you must remove all the old gasket material on the manifolds elbows and cylinder heads. After install I like to run the engine up to temp let it cool then retorque with my clicker torque wrench.

 

[Lou C]

I use a razor scraper (carefully) on cast iron.

 

[achris]

Yes you must remove all the old gasket material on the manifolds elbows and cylinder heads. After install I like to run the engine up to temp let it cool then retorque with my clicker torque wrench.

Cast iron should be retorqued while at full operating temperature. Only alloy (like car cylinder heads) need to be allowed to cool before retorquing...

Chris...

 

[Kubaat3lover]

Thanks, good tip. I will do it, but you said you paint sealing surfaces with Rustoleum but it has to be clean, I mean bare metal?

 

[Lou C]

I didn't paint the sealing surfaces (just the rest of the elbows & manifolds) but some do.
thanks for the tip Chris I'll remember that!

 

[Kubaat3lover]

Oh I see , yes I’m gonna refresh them with some black coat thanks, Now time for new gaskets.
Also I Want replace valve cover gasket because it’s seeping at the edge at the rear, any tips?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Oh I see , yes I’m gonna refresh them with some black coat thanks, Now time for new gaskets.
Also I Want replace valve cover gasket because it’s seeping at the edge at the rear, any tips?

your valve cover gaskets should be rubber and normally last decades.

first, make sure the valve cover isnt bent and that the bolts are snugged up to the sleeves.

 

[Lou C]

yep when I took my heads off 4 years ago the original rubber gaskets were still fine. Saved em in my pile of spare parts. Much better than the old style cork gaskets and perimeter bolts on small block Chevrolets, they ALWAYS leaked!

 

[Kubaat3lover]

I think no one ever touched the covers so why it can be bent? I’m afraid of overtorqueing, also when manifold are dropped I think it’s good idea to replace it

 

[Scott Danforth]

I think no one ever touched the covers so why it can be bent? I’m afraid of overtorqueing, also when manifold are dropped I think it’s good idea to replace it

You cant overtorque them

 

[Kubaat3lover]

But the cover is plastic can crack it,

 

[achris]

But the cover is plastic can crack it,

The bolts are stepped/shouldered, they bottom out...

 

[Scott Danforth]

But the cover is plastic can crack it,

Still cant overtorque. You would be snapping the bolts off if you tried. However you couldnt crack the valve covers

 

[Franco_boater]

Cast iron should be retorqued while at full operating temperature. Only alloy (like car cylinder heads) need to be allowed to cool before retorquing...

Chris...

So the correct procedure is to retorque elbows/exhausts after reinstalling ??

 

[achris]

So the correct procedure is to retorque elbows/exhausts after reinstalling ??

Do not re-torque dry-joint elbows.