Easy Winterizing

[tpenfield]

Re: Easy Winterizing

Yep that 'easy way' will get you a cracked block if the thermo does not open all the way, if you don't want to fiddle with drain plugs, you have 2 choices, get an outboard next time, or an inboard with closed cooling (still have to drain the heat exchanger and raw water lines). Otherwise, do it the right way.

Hi Lou:

I think this is the first time I have 'seen' you over here on iBoats. I am a relative newcomer over here.

I just found the drains on the engine block. I was not sure where they were, but now that I have the engine out of the boat, I found them. Of course they are kind of clogged up, but they opened up without too much effort.

I'm still going with my 'hybrid' approach - run anti-freeze through the outdrive/engine and then drain the block and manifolds. Sort of the best of both worlds.

 

[Lou C]

Re: Easy Winterizing

Ted, here's how I do it.....
warm engine, fog it good.
Then drain everything....poke those holes, to make sure that rust flakes do not clog the drain, every drain, should have water come out...
then I pull off the bottom end of the big hose on the water pump on the front of the engine...that drains a lot of water...
drain the hoses for the impeller (You have a Bravo, I have not worked on one but just make sure the water is out of those hoses).

Then, with the engine drains out...I reconnect the bottom end of the big hose to the water pump, then disconnect the top end that connects to the thermo housing. Next I pour in some -100 no tox AF (if you are going to bother with AF, use the best!)...till I see it push the last of the water out the engine drains. Then put some OMC/Bombardier gasket sealer on the drain plug threads (salt water never sleeps) and re-install the plugs. Fill till you see AF at the thermo housing, then re-connect the hose, it will take several gallons. Do the same with the manifolds, fill them till it runs out the exhaust. Also fill the raw water intake hose till it runs out the drive water intakes.

This way, is exactly what OMC has in their shop manual, it's the only safe way to use AF. No worries about water in the block, no worries if the impeller does not pull in the AF, no worries about running out of AF before it's fogged. Do it my way and sleep good all winter.

PS I'm really enjoying your photojournalism of the engine tear down, see it shows us that salt water boaters, with raw water cooled manifolds, must check the risers and manis and mating surfaces at the 3-4 year mark....that's when it can start...but you don't notice at first....till you get an engine miss because the valves are getting sticky or can't seat....anytime you see any rust on the outside of the riser/mani joint, it could well be on the INSIDE too....