Dust Free Dustless Fiberglass Sanding with HF Sander & Dustbuddie

Klink

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
254
I have to sand the entire fiberglass deck on my 1968 Boston Whaler 17' blue hull in preparation for laying down some additional glass and wanted to avoid the dust. I looked at the many dust shields, but they are all designed for angle grinders. Angle grinders run too fast to sand flat. I use a $30 Harbor Freight variable speed polisher/sander. The dust shield I decided to go with was the most adaptable, I knew from the beginning that all the dust shields would have to be adapted and the 7" Dustbuddie seemed to be the most adaptable because of its mounting system. Here's how I adapted it to make it work:

The first problem is that the HF polisher/sander "collar" where the Dustbuddie (DB)is mounted, is 1.85" in diameter and the 7" Dustbuddie is designed to mount on a minimum 2.25" grinder mounting area ("collar"), according to Dustbuddie. I however, found that it can go down to about 2". I had to place some kind of a sleeve to increase the HF collar diameter to about 2".

Secondly and more important, the sanding pad I have was too short to reach the floor. Therefore I bought a bolt extender specifically made for polishers, the best deal is at Amazon $5.05 delivered Model 69-100 Extender Bolt by S.M. Arnold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IU1IOO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"

With that Extender Bolt installed, I ran into a third problem, now the sanding disk was too long, the DB sat in the air, with a gap for the dust to escape. I tried many different ideas and came up with my best solution, I used a piece of tailpipe that I had, it was a little over the 1.85" of the HF Polisher/Sander (HF P/S) collar, so I cut a slit down the weld seem so I'd have a gap that I could later tighten down with a hose clamp, creating a type of extende rso I could adjust the DB to the perfect position for sanding. I first made the piece out of 1 1/2" PVC pipe till I got the perfect length and fit, then I cut the steel tailpipe to size. I attached the tailpipe to the HF collar with a hose clamp. Then I attached the DB to the extender pipe with the DB mounting system, which is another hose clamp.

I hooked up the HF sander/dustbuddie with a 6" disk & 40 grit paper to my ShopVac with a bag filter (very important!!! You MUST use a bag filter or it'll clog your regular filter very fast and you do not want to be cleaning this stuff off the filter.) and it sanded fast and without dust.

Some Notes:
This DB system only works on flat surfaces, as long as you keep the sander flat, all the dust will be extracted.

I used steel pipe because I thought the PVC might insulate the bearing in the HF Polisher/sander and cause it to overheat. The steel pipe will dissipate heat and the vacuum cleaner will draw cooling air through the DB arbor opening. I also used steel because it does not bend at the end like the PVC.

You'll have to move the pipe gap and the two clamps around till they all sit flush, there is not much collar height on the HF P/S so you want to get the clamp down just right.

I paid $30 for the HF P/S, $71 for the 7" Dustbuddie Kit which includes the adapter hose to hook up to the ShopVac, and $5.05 for the Extender Bolt. That's a total of $106 for tools that I can use for other purposes too (dustless angle grinding of concrete floors, polishing cars & boats, sanding without the shield....)
 

Klink

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
254
Some pictures
 

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Klink

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
254
In this picture you will notice something I did not mention before, the arrow points to a strip of aluminum sheet from some scrap aluminum soffit panels I have, that I cut and bent as shown, to place inside the tube gap to stop the end of the tube from folding in from the DB clamp pressure. I folded it as you see, then wrapped the rest around the tube to fill in a gap which exists in the DB mounting bracket because it has a protruding ridge that likely goes into a gap in some angle grinders. You'll understand when you see it. No big deal.
 

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Klink

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 27, 2013
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254
The sandpaper you see is 6 hole Hook & Loop because that is all I had in 40 grit, and no other machine that uses it. There is no other reason for using 6 hole.

What limits the Dustbuddie mounting system to about a minimum of 2" are the DB screw hole slots, the screws slide in the slots in and out according to how tight the clamp is tightened or loosened. If you tighten it too far it chafes the inside hole edge and the DB will not move freely up and down as you work. You can see the screw slots in the pictures above.
 

Klink

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
254
The problem we do-it-yourself guys always face is that we may only use a tool once in a blue moon, buying the perfect tool is only possible for someone with money to burn. If I had money to burn I would just buy the Dustbuddie and a Milwaukee variable speed angle grinder
Milwaukee 6078 7-Inch/9-Inch Sander/Grinder variable speed 0-6000RPM angle grinder for a combined cost of $300++

The objective of my going through this was to be able to use my Harbor Freight Polisher Sander instead, which cost me $30. I could not find any information about adapting a angle grinder dust shield to it, so passing it on to others makes up for the time spent pondering and studying the matter.

Pondering, studying on paper, and experimenting in an air conditioned room beats having to wear a full body Tyvek suit and a full face dust mask in 95 degree Florida heat in the shade, and all the associated shop cleanup and itching which I would have to do if I didn't have this system!

God Bless
 

Klink

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 27, 2013
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254
No Title

Here are the pictures again:
 

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Klink

Petty Officer 1st Class
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254
No Title

The other pictures:
 

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gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
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14,601
Well Klink (Colonel, I assume) Ingenuity is always welcomed on these forums. Thanks for the picture as well because they explains things some times way better then verbiage does. I hope you got the hull ready for glassing now. One thing you really need to invest in is a Dust Deputy setup and then you can forget all about the vacuum cleaner filters. They will never clog up again. All the debris goes into the bucket and basically nothing goes into the actual vacuum cleaner again. Check it out. It does work magically. :thumb:
 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
One thing you really need to invest in is a Dust Deputy setup and then you can forget all about the vacuum cleaner filters.

My buddy made one of those, cheap easy project that works well.

I don't have room for another gadget and use an old pillow case hose clamped inside the vacuum. Chuck a couple rocks into the pillow case to keep it at the bottom of the vacuum canister, works really well to filter out fine dust and much cheaper than the disposable 1-time use filters. I haven't used it for fiberglass dust, but it filters out drywall dust really well.
 

Klink

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
254
The Harbor Freight Polisher/Sander did a decent job, but it seemed to lack the power, so I switched to the Harbor Freight 7-9" angle grinder, making another pipe extension for it with an aluminum tube, and it really took the material off. The added RPM's helped me to put more pressure on the sanding and it was like 10x faster at taking off material. I'm still using the same 6 hole 6" hook& Loop sandpaper. Ideally I'd use no hole 7" paper with a 7" disc, but I have to use up the 6" paper that I have before buying "the ideal".

The dustbuddie works great, no dust.
 
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Klink

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
254
No Title

I will use the HF polisher/sander for lighter sanding later. I improved the extension tube setup by removing the aluminum strip wrap and making instead a 1/2" ring of the same tailpipe tube and placing it around the 1 1/2" long extension tube for the same purpose (so the Dustbuddy clamp is flush with the extension tube). I made a wedge of the aluminum to keep the gap the same at the top, like before. See picture:
 

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