Dry Fiberglass

[blkexp98]

We have an old boat that has been on a trailer and out of the water for probably 10 years if not more. Can anything happen to the glass to make it not feasible to refurbish? What im getting at is can it dry out to the point where its no good? The boat has the old chalky look to it with no sheen and the bottom has cracking in the gel coat. I dont remember much on the sides.

Anyway the boat is a 28 bertram and I have always wanted to do something with it but I wonder now if I would be better off restarting later on with a hull thats been in the water and admit defeat on this one.

So what do yall think?

 

[zool]

Re: Dry Fiberglass

We have an old boat that has been on a trailer and out of the water for probably 10 years if not more. Can anything happen to the glass to make it not feasible to refurbish? What im getting at is can it dry out to the point where its no good? The boat has the old chalky look to it with no sheen and the bottom has cracking in the gel coat. I dont remember much on the sides.

Anyway the boat is a 28 bertram and I have always wanted to do something with it but I wonder now if I would be better off restarting later on with a hull thats been in the water and admit defeat on this one.

So what do yall think?

The chalking gel is normal, and has little to do with a restore decision. Its the wood substructure that will bite you...open a free photobucket account and post some pics... a 28 Bert is a good restoration candidate!

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Dry Fiberglass

Hello and welcome to the Iboats.com dry dock, blkexp98...

Like "zool" said, the Bertram is an excellent candidate for restoration, just be prepared for a very large job...

The chalking and cracking are all very normal and shouldn't affect the actual integrity of the fiberglass...

Unless the fiberglass was originally, poorly laid up and delaminating, it should serve its purpose for many, many years to come...

The issues you are bound to have are with the sub-structural components of wood...

Definitely post up some pics and let us see what you have...

If you decide to tackle this project, you are in the A number one place to get all the info you'll need...

Best of Luck and Have Fun!
GT1M

 

[Ned L]

Re: Dry Fiberglass

28 ft Bertram, ....... well worth a proper refit. One of the few plastic boats that can easilly be worth more when you are finished than what you put into the project (if done properly). For this reason (and because of the kind of questions you asked) I would advise you to do some good research about what you are undertaking and make sure you do a proper job. Don't rely on only what you find on this site , there is all sorts of information available on restoring Bertrams on the internet.
Fiberglass does not 'dry out' from being out of the water. The surface of the gelcoat will oxidize (get dull & chalky) if left out in the weather, this is nothing structural. Polyester resin (fiberglass) does continue to harden as the years and decades pass which will make it a little more brittle as it gets old, but this happens regardless of how a boat is taken care of (and really not much of a concern).

How about some pictures???

 

[blkexp98]

Re: Dry Fiberglass

Thanks for the welcome and it does look like there is a good bit of info here. I really like the look and size of the boat so its been bad knowing I have it yet cant use it in its state. We have most all the parts to finish it but just haven't had the time for the bodywork to put everything back on.

I know what you mean about the wood. I think the main issue is the stringers for the engines to mount to but I had some plans for that anyway. There are some well documented good ways to replace that. Where practical I wanted to go with something less susceptible to rot like coosa board where I could to get rid of the wood.

We have docking lights and two large holes where the originals were but im not sold that I want them and the leak spots they can cause. We have a spotlight that could probably take their place pretty easy. What are your thoughts on that? Glass them over or put them in and get a good seal? I do have to say they arnt doing the looks of the hull any favors.

The other trouble spot I know of is on the bow deck and I know this will be a PITA. The deck is a little soft so I imagine that wood has had it. I haven't done it before but is vacuum bagging the best way to fix this since I have to work from the bottom unless I cut it out?

Here is an older shot...The flybridge is back on top for now but will be pulled back off for paint.


Here is a shot of the bottom that will have to be delt with:

 

[Mud Puppy]

Re: Dry Fiberglass

:welcome: to Drydock blk! LOTS of GREAT PEOPLE here and LOTS of HELP! People from all kinds of backgrounds and experiences.

we have docking lights and two large holes where the originals were but im not sold that i want them and the leak spots they can cause. We have a spotlight that could probably take their place pretty easy. What are your thoughts on that? Glass them over or put them in and get a good seal? I do have to say they arnt doing the looks of the hull any favors.

IMO, if you leave the lights, they can be sealed with a good quality Marine Grade polyurethane sealant such as 3M 5200.

Holes that you decide to fill is a mixture of polyurethane resin (or epoxy resin) and chopped fiberglass strands. Fumed silica or Microspheres can be added to bulk up the resin know as peanut butter (PB) here. Sand level after cure and finish with gel-coat.

the other trouble spot i know of is on the bow deck and i know this will be a pita. The deck is a little soft so i imagine that wood has had it. I haven't done it before but is vacuum bagging the best way to fix this since i have to work from the bottom unless i cut it out?

Vacuum bagging in aviation lanemy background) is used to pull all the layers together as in a clamping of wood pieces together. It applies pressure at the rate of about 1/2lb. of pressure (PISG) for every inch mercury or of water column, i.e. if you have the capability to pull 20iches of vacuum, you are exerting right at 10lbs of clamping force. This is normally used in wet layup to wet layup. Very good for smaller areas of layup or large layups in tooling of epoxy impregnated materials where there is some time to apply multiple layers of material (also, the higher in elevation you are, the less vacuum you can create, Bernoulli's Principle).

Not very practical on things such as floors. Real good practice for hulls and the like where repairs are made to small areas. Materials and ports can run big bucks for the good stuff. Venturi type ports work to about 20-22inch range and use massive amounts of air compressor time and effort, where vacuum pumps, rotatory or piston, pull better.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Dry Fiberglass

Holes that you decide to fill is a mixture of polyurethane resin (or epoxy resin) and chopped fiberglass strands. Fumed silica or Microspheres can be added to bulk up the resin know as peanut butter (PB) here. Sand level after cure and finish with gel-coat..

Don't forget, when you use epoxy, gelcoat & polyester resins don't adhere well.

It's late, & been a very long day, I'll be back.....

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