Drive removed for the 1st time, gimbal aligment inspection

Kubaat3lover

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Hello folks,
Can anyone tell me if this drive, ujoints and gimbal bearing and inside of the bell housing looking good?
Also Ive made a video of putting in and out the aligment tool, anyone can tell me if its right?
heres a video : Here is a video showing aligment tool

Also Ive got UJoints with external clips, but according to the S/N and catalog it looks Ive got internal clips.. Is it possible if anyone would swap it ?


Thank You, take care Its Alpha One Gen 2
 

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tpenfield

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So why are you turning the alignment tool once you have it inserted into the coupler? :unsure:

You won't be able to see the spline marks which are telltale of the alignment.
 

Rick Stephens

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Looks shiny and new. Not sure that means anything other than you didn't create rust with a leak. Reality is that you have to spin the gimbal bearing to see if it is smooth. You have to pay attention to noises when driving the boat to see if there is a u-joint rumble. Looking at, even manipulating u-joints doesn't often tell you much unless they are seriously dead. You might feel the light grab as you turn and twist if the races are grooved, but usually not.

I've never seen polished up constant velocity joint like that. Mighty fancy.
 

Scott Danforth

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since you appear to like videos, look at the videos on the stickies about doing an alignment that achris posted.
 

nola mike

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So why are you turning the alignment tool once you have it inserted into the coupler? :unsure:

You won't be able to see the spline marks which are telltale of the alignment.
I found that turning the tool helped things a lot when I was installing my engine. Even if the spline marks looked the same, I could feel a difference. Also I think it makes sense since what you're after is to limit the stress on the coupler.
 

tpenfield

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My point is that turning the tool (while in the coupler as shown on the OP's video) wipes out the spline marks. So, you cannot see if the spline marks within the grease coating are more pronounced on one area of the tool vs. another. Differences in the spline marks are what you go by to make 'fine tuning' adjustments to the engine alignment.

Typically, you would rotate the engine by hand 1/4 turn and check the alignment again to see if the spline mark pattern 'followed' the engine turns . . . which would indicate a 'set' or 'bias' in the coupler itself.
 

Kubaat3lover

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Thanks guys, Ill do the engine aligment again later,b oat is in a hangar and that was after 6h work of cleaning and winterizing...
 

nola mike

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My point is that turning the tool (while in the coupler as shown on the OP's video) wipes out the spline marks. So, you cannot see if the spline marks within the grease coating are more pronounced on one area of the tool vs. another. Differences in the spline marks are what you go by to make 'fine tuning' adjustments to the engine alignment.

Typically, you would rotate the engine by hand 1/4 turn and check the alignment again to see if the spline mark pattern 'followed' the engine turns . . . which would indicate a 'set' or 'bias' in the coupler itself.
I hear you. But spline marks can be misleading (in my case I had a horizontal bias as well), whereas resistance to turning/insertion is ultimately what you're trying to reduce. And I think turning resistance is easier to feel than insertion. Just saying that both can be useful.
 

Kubaat3lover

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Hello friends,
I did couple of videos, can You tell me if everything is correct?
and what the correct amount of force to push it in and pull it out??



Thanks for your help!
 
Last edited:

JASinIL2006

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Seems like you're having to work pretty hard to get the alignment bar in and out. Also, when my engine is aligned, the witness marks in the grease seem a lot more even than what you're showing.

I'm hoping some of these guys with lots more experience weigh in on this one.
 

nola mike

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Looked like you had a much harder time on video #2 than 3? Try using a lot less grease on the tool. A very thin layer is enough.
 

tpenfield

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I usually use 'dirty' (gray) grease because it is easier to see the spline marks
 

Kubaat3lover

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When removing the tool i Was doing it very slowly not to touch anything, and yes I have to push it in and out with a little force but how much force is the correct one?... hope you guys can help me.
Marks looks even on every side I think..?
 

tpenfield

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I just recall when I first got my boat, the engines were so well aligned that when I took the outdrives off, they slid right out on their own . . . I had to make a diving catch šŸ˜²
 

alldodge

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Looks like your real close, the the bar should go in and out with only using 2 fingers each way.

When your adjusting the mounts, have you been turning each up or down the same number of turns each time?
 

alldodge

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Things settle over time and this is the reason for inspecting alignment.
Having marks on the top and very little on the bottom I would adjust the front mounts down 1 turn and try again
 
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