DP-SM prop shaft seals replacement

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
336
I need to change the seals because of a slight contact I had last year with the bottom of the lake. Props are not bent but only small dents that got repaired.
But since then, I have water intrusion in the outdrive. Not a lot, the level remains constant on the gauge, but the oil turns yellow.
I think the seals are the original ones from 2004, so are not very flexible anymore.

I checked the runout with a dial indicator, and it is at the maximum of tolerance (0.002'').

Anyway, my question is, does someone has instructions on how to disassemble the bearing carrier on a SM?
All the video and manuals I see are for the SX or DP-A that have a different bearing carrier.

Would it be a simpler option to just punch the seals and remove them without removing the whole carrier?
 

dypcdiver

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
1,039
The ring screws out using the correct tool, be prepared to use some force.
 

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Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
336
The ring screws out using the correct tool, be prepared to use some force.
Wow! that looks like a lot of force required. The outdrive is removed from the boat right now, I won't be able to do that setup.

Do you know if removing the ring will destroy the bearings or adjustment?

I saw behind the ring 2 tabs bent toward the front. They are quite big. I'm still not sure how to lift them.
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
336
Get a factory service manual from Volvo Penta.

I have one that covers the SX and DP-A. It shows a similar arrangement, but the locking tabs and ring are different.
If I have to buy a new service manual, I may be better to send the outdrive to a shop to have it replaced. But I'm a bit scared that they never worked on a SM and it will end up by costing a lower end rebuilt!!
 

dypcdiver

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
1,039
I did mine with the help of the manual, however I am an engineer.
The boat is 7 months per year in the Spanish Med hence the need for the force (and some heat).
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
336
Before dismantling anything, I did another pressure test and vacuum test, while rotating all the shafts and shifter. Everything is good, no loss.
I checked the output shafts runout with a dial indicator, and they are within specs.
The drain plug always has a new oring at every oil change.

Could it be an unbalanced propeller that make the shaft move a bit, and the seals can't keep up?
My propellers have been damaged on the tips only and repaired by a welder, but he was not equipped to check the balance. They were not bent, only dents at the edges.
 

Phil*

Cadet
Joined
Oct 27, 2023
Messages
10
Not sure if you saw my DP-S drive water ingress issue but maybe this is helpful... Like yours, my pressure test held fairly well and was borderline passable to the VP manual specifications but I was definitely getting water mixing with gear oil. What really showed the issue on my drive was applying radial force to the prop shafts during the pressure test. Pushing down didn't do anything, but pushing up caused an obvious leak at the shaft seals do to excess play.
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
336
Not sure if you saw my DP-S drive water ingress issue but maybe this is helpful... Like yours, my pressure test held fairly well and was borderline passable to the VP manual specifications but I was definitely getting water mixing with gear oil. What really showed the issue on my drive was applying radial force to the prop shafts during the pressure test. Pushing down didn't do anything, but pushing up caused an obvious leak at the shaft seals do to excess play.
I'm pretty sure I forced the shaft in many directions. I will try again. Now I'm just wondering if an unbalanced propeller could cause the seals to let water in at high RPMs.
 
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