Diningroom table - with epoxy?

[redneck joe]

 

[redneck joe]

the top with mineral spirits after planing and rough sanding.

 

[redneck joe]

so some thoughts.

I won't be doing anything for a couple a days, got some shots in my wrists for carpal tunnel and had to have my wife take my pants off when we got home.


second, didn't think of the fact that the black epoxy would stain the wood in the overflow areas. Based on initial sanding i think i can sand out. I tried some grey stain to blend and no go. Lessoned learned, do a scratch coat of clear to protect.

When my hands function again next step will be to get the additional two pieces attached, I will do a full length spline but oversized to allow about half inch that I will then do a pour in that space, both sides so kina like pin stripes plus since with my setup i cannot get a perfect edge to but tight, it will act as a structural joint by using the epoxy.

so this post took about 20 minutes to type with my one finger that has feeling so see yall later,

 

[aspeck]

... and had to have my wife take my pants off when we got home.

TMI!

The table is going to look nice ...

 

[Scott Danforth]

looking good Joe. Does AC know that you are having her take your pants off?

 

[southkogs]

It's gonna' look great. I think the black really adds some character to the grain.

 

[nurseman]

Looks great! A coat of clear shellac is great to seal anything you don't want epoxy on. Dries quick and easy to sand off.

 

[redneck joe]

looking good Joe. Does AC know that you are having her take your pants off?

she looked away....

 

[redneck joe]

It's gonna' look great. I think the black really adds some character to the grain.

me too. I wasn't 100% sure I correctly chose the color and all until yesterday when i got it to this stage and got the mineral sprits on it to bring out the natural look. I've mostly gone to natural stain in my projects as of late so much so I just bought a gallon of the stuff. Way cheaper per.

I'll be using Odie's oil as the finish - i think i decided that watching the Blacktail studio videos. Should be the same effect as stain with no poly coating. Or maybe just stain and poly over as usual but since i'm in it this far doing new and fun stuff prob the Odies. Mary and the kids rarely use a dining table, in fact have not had one since the a.....hole left about 4 years ago so not too worried about the durability of the finish - plus it's maple. They make baseball bats out of this stuff.

Down to only three of my fingers with no feeling, might get some sanding and routing done done today - supposed to be mid 40's, light wind and rain tomorrow which would get me to gluing the spline stage inside. I try to move outside the garage for the messy stuff.

She is paying my cost for this so i'm tracking like I used to on my first couple of boats before I quit tracking costs on my boats to keep my sanity and prevent me from having to lie to my wife. At least I'll have a general idea of cost should I do another one.

epoxy aint cheap...

 

[Scott Danforth]

just dont add up the boat receipts......

 

[cptbill]

Well, that came out pretty nice

 

[Old Ironmaker]

What would 1 of those pieces you have of what we call, common Maple, here in Ontario sell for if you had to buy one?

 

[redneck joe]

most 1.5 to 2" slabs run $50-75 of all types. That s usually 18" or so width and an 8' or so length.

 

[redneck joe]

splines are in - i made wide enough to leave about 3/4"" of space between the boards for the 'pin strips'

but... There was some warping. One one end the wood AND the epoxy appear to have pulled up about 1/8" in total. So while the glue for the spline cured I have put clamps on all along the edges. The opposite side had a bit, nothing I couldn't deal with, but as long as I'm clamping....

I've also found a local place here in small town that is making an angle iron frame for me underneath. I will use 1" screws every six inches to help correct current and prevent future warpages, plus it will be a cool design element. Having inset about 1.5" in from the edges.

So, today will be to flip and do semi-final trim to size, which should be about 44x81. The frame should be ready tomorrow so I can drill, paint and attach that. Then pour the epoxy in the spline channel for the underside. Since they are only about 3/8' deep should be set enough in 24 hours to flip - especially with the frame attached adding rigidity.



Legs ordered as well, will be 28" tall and wide, black powdercoated. The raw was only $20 less and since legs may take a beating more than the rest I thought I'd get factory finish. 2" tube to match the 2" L that is the underside frame.

 

[nurseman]

That should look slick with the metal frame.
Just a thought here, but you may want to consider using threaded inserts and furniture bolts to attach the legs. Makes removal and re-attachment of legs for moving much easier, plus you won't have to worry about stripping screw threads with re-assembly.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[redneck joe]

yeah been chewing on that, can do last if I decide to go that route.

Today was a rain out so stayed inside. Rather than cutting to rough finish size I just caulked up the ends and will to the epoxy prior to the cut.


The slats were not strong enough to flip by the top so had to add some bracing underneath prior to the flip. Once the epoxy is on, and the frame, the flip back to the top should be fine then with the top epoxy all will be good even without the frame. I hope.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

Too bad you didn't have a CDN Loonie or Toonie. That Canuck 20 will flost to the top for sure. It'd only about 12 bucks USD.

 

[redneck joe]

Too bad you didn't have a CDN Loonie or Toonie. That Canuck 20 will flost to the top for sure. It'd only about 12 bucks USD.

I do have some canadian coin form visiting the folks on Lopez and of course growing up int he PNW the coins moved across the border alot and as a kid I always had a collection. I've got lots of other countries coin.


Not much to update but am currently waiting on the frame which I'm having made here locally. Was supposed to be done in a couple days, over a week now. It will be 2" angle stock, 1/4" thick metal. They are welding up for me so all I'll need to do is clean up and paint. And drill about 30 holes.

Doing the final pours today on the top. Cure thru Saturday then start my months long finish sanding on it.

Just for fun, here is the dye settling in. I have the epoxy on the bottom of the cup and the hardener on top. If I still was to partake, this kinda stuff could get trippy....

 

[redneck joe]

rough sanding, 60 grit on the belt sander which went tits up on my right at the end. Should be able to finish with the random orbital but have a new one ordered.

 

[redneck joe]

and a touch of mineral spirits to see where I'm headed.