Dilemma: Waterskiing - Sea Doo vs small outboard boat (15 ft Glastron)

[skibrain]

Lots of info on these boats here: Classicglastron.com
Original brochures and specs here: http://www.classicglastron.com/gl-the-years-web.html

 

[SkiDad]

The others are probably right about the pylon on that small of a boat. If you do choose to go that route I posted some instructions for when I did it on my 19' bayliner. Angle is critical and you just want it clear the motor by a few inches.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...l-eze-pylon-looking-for-mounting-instructions

 

[aspeck]

You will not find the "ideal" ski boat for your application and budget. What you need to find if the best fit possible. Slalom, fuel economy, hole shot, stability when skier is pulling a hard turn ... these are all working against each other. There is a reason the prime ski boats are inboards and set up the way they are. That said, you need to find what you can afford, is dependable, will pull you out of the water and get you on plane, and allow you to have fun! When I was learning to slalom ski was the start of the concave "tunnel" slaloms. My 65" Connelly with double hot plate bindings was a beast to get on plane, even behind bigger horsepower boats. I got to the point where I had to give up the skiing because I would rip my shoulder out of it's socket every time. But I digress.

You need to be looking for a boat that you can adequately ski behind that fits your budget and weight you can tow. The Glastron is a nice and a good looking boat, but I could pull them all over the lake when I was skiing. You need something with a deep V to keep tracking a straight line. Deep V, comfortable for the driver and spotter, and light weight. Forget length, that will come with the boat ... I would seriously be looking more into an aluminum "fish and ski" model boat (and I am a fiberglas guy). You can get rid (sell or swap) any of the electronics that might come with it for other things you will want. But this would probably be your best bet.

I know these are new models, but I am putting these links here to help you look for the right boat for you ...

https://www.loweboats.com/fish-and-sport/

https://www.crestliner.com/super-hawk/

https://www.lundboats.com/boat-series/rebel-xs/

There are lots of other deep v aluminums on the market, but I have seen some of these Fish and Ski models go for fairly cheap used.

Good luck with your hunt.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would go with the glastron and use a bridle..... be boating by 6pm tonight if you have your finances in order.

we slalom ski behind a 1974 14' switzercraft with a 135 merc v6 (used to have a 150 tower of power) if your light we use the pylon. if your chunky like I am, we use the bridle.

 

[skibrain]

The limiting factor in this discussion is your 2010 VW Golf as a tow vehicle. Of course anything from a 2,000# fish & ski to a 3,500# inboard direct drive would give better performance as a slalom tow boat. And a full-size 4WD pickup will make a better, safer tow vehicle.

From what I see in a quick search (if towing with a golf is recommended at all) is 1,000# max. That has to include hull + motor + fuel, gear + trailer. Even the little Glastron is going to take you well over that when you add the weight of a trailer. A stripped aluminum boat (no live wells or extra batteries, etc etc) might get you there. A PWC on a trailer would as well. If your priority is really to get into boating, I would shop for a different vehicle first.

 

[boatless bobby]

Hey guys!

Once again, thanks so much for all the feedback.

The first thing I want to clear up is that towing is not really an issue. At first I was thinking a craft small enough for my car would be ideal, but it is not impetrative. The objective really is to bring the boat up to the cottage in the spring and then bring it back in the fall. So not much towing necessary. I have friends that would be willing to lend me their trucks etc.

Ok, firstly, skibrain! Very interesting insight into the ski bridle vs pylon idea. I’ve always just assumed that a ski pylon was ideal but what you said totally makes sense. It’s also music to my ears because it saves me from having to buy and install one myself.

I also understand what aspeck is saying. Glastron’s seem to want to skid on top of the water as opposed to really grip into it. For slalom I imagine the latter is ideal. That being said, wouldn’t the gt 150 with a negative trim and ski bridle be OK? I should also mention, I don’t weigh over 170. At this point, I’m somewhat ready to pull the trigger on the blue Glastron posted above.

The only other boat I’m somewhat considering is a 1987 Larson Wildfire with a Mercury 90hp tower of power. Thoughts!?

 

[jimmbo]

What year is the motor. By the style/colour of the wrap-round decal I can ballpark it as a 1980 - 83. Pre 82 would be crank rated, post 81 would be prop rated. Your top end would be between 35 and 39 mph, depending on the forementioned crank/prop rating
Boat will ride better in a chop than the Gt150, the inline 6 90 has fantastic holeshot, it has a WOT range of 4500 - 5000 rpm, and above 5000 it loses power really quickly as it has very tiny porting. it will make its best power around 4700 -4800 rpm

 

[skibrain]

In selecting between boats that are 35 years old, condition of each (do either have a wood floor that has gone soft? rotted transom? ripped up upholstery?) and how they perform in an actual test drive on the water is going to be the most important part of the decision. I wouldn't buy anything without a test drive. I have skied a bunch behind 15 and 16' Glastron sport boats. Yes you can "move them around a bit" if you are a strong slalom skier. You can also "slow them down a bit" as the boat will slow and then speed up slightly (2-3 mph) as you put load on the line. But unless you are driving that boat through a slalom course with guide buoys this is largely irrelevant. People will always comment that 'nothing skis as well as the direct drive tournament inboard boat they use to have.. blah blah blah". When I was buying my first boat, I couldn't afford a tournament ski boat, and my minivan wouldn't pull one. Just buy a boat and get out there and ski. Ski as often as you can to get stronger and improve. If you decide in a few years that you are using it a lot and some aspect of the boat does not meet your needs, trade it for something else. If you bought it at a good price and take care of it, you will likely turn around and sell it for what you paid.

From elsewhere on this site: "1982 Larson Boats Wildfire - This Larson outboard sports runabout has a fiberglass hull, is 16.08 feet long and 78 inches wide at the widest point. The boat weighs approximately 710 pounds with an empty fuel tank and without any gear or passengers. The maximum horsepower we have listed for this outboard boat is 115 hp"

 

[SkiDad]

while I'm a huge tower of power fan, I think they are a dog out of the hole and I think they are very difficult to work on. Of course we had a 1973 year model and a 115 back then was like a 90 of today. If you go that route a lower pitch prop will be needed (like a 15 pitch)

 

[boatless bobby]

OK guys so I'm narrowing in on a purchase! I have pretty much narrowed down my options to two Glastron Gt 150s.

The first I've already seen. It's a 1976 with a 85hp Suzuki Oil Injection.

The second I will be going to see tomorrow. It's a 1985 with a 70hp Evinrude.

Of course it's impossible to draw any real conclusion based on the photos but do you guys have any thought? Anything would be appreciated

Do you guys have any thoughts on the engines and the 15hp difference? I have to admit, I really did like the fact that I wouldn't have to mess around with mixing oil and gas with the Suzuki.

 

[Brandon5778]

I'm going to chime in real quick with my thoughts.. Your first priority with looking at fiberglass boats this old is if it's rotten. Unfortunately most old glass boats that are selling for cheap are rotten. As others have said, the condition of the boat is everything. Soft spots ANYWHERE in the floor, and you need to run as fast as you can. Don't let anyone fool you and say, "oh and the floor has just one little soft spot, not a big deal just needs a little patch". I just want you to understand that rotten boats are not safe for you or your friends, look up transom failures. Unfortunately it's going to be hard to find a boat in your price range that won't need structural work. You need to look very closely at the structure of what you're looking at. Are the seats in good condition? If not it has probably been left out in the elements. There are other ways to inspect an old fiberglass boat, I'm sure other members can give their thoughts on this too.

And have fun skiing! I'm about the same age as you and it's all I do in the summer. There's nothing like it.

 

[bobofthenorth]

Since you have already taken towing out of the decision, before you buy anything figure out some way to ski behind a direct drive boat. If you're as serious about skiing as you say you are then once you've skied behind a direct drive nothing else will ever be "good enough". You can find older Malibu Skiers or Nautiques in your price range and the much simpler drive system will cost you less maintenance $$ in the long run. If there's a ski club in your area the cheapest skiing is going to be a club membership and that way you'll get coaching and ski buddies thrown in.

 

[skibrain]

I don’t have any experience with Suzuki motors. That’s not a disapproval, I just can’t provide any insight. I believe the ‘85 Evinrude originally had a VRO oil injection system - maybe it has been disabled for pre-mix. Not the end of world if so and prefixing gas is a small inconvenience.

All things being equal, I have a preference for boats powered closer to their max rating (85 or 90 for gt150) but propped right, a 70 will perform great too. Structural condition of boat (solid wood floor and transom, good Interior is the prop in good shape, or is it chewed up indicating an uncaring owner) and a smooth running motor is more important than 10-15 hp.

The gold boat boat has a pylon. It is in the middle of boat (probably better for towing, but I still prefer a $25 bridle for reasons stated above). Check to see if you can use the rear seats or move around the boat with the pylon in that spot.

MOST IMPORTANT is getting the boat in the water and test driving it. Meet at a lake. Take along a friend who knows boats.

Good luck.

 

[nola mike]

Man, I'm going to have to try skiing on a small OB again. Or lose a lot of weight. 185# deepwater start on a double wrap 66" is a 30 second adventure behind my boat. I might try re-propping this year.

 

[Blind Date]

Having owned a CVX16 I would not recommend it or a GT150 as a ski boat for two reasons. First you cannot get back into either boat when your in the water because they don't have boarding ladders. Secondly, both are too small. A 16' Glastron SSV open bow would be heads and tails better for skiing. It will throw a real nice flat wake, provide room for ski's and equipment and comes with a boarding ladder. My buddy hurt himself trying to climb back into my CVX16.

 

[skibrain]

Blind Date Nice looking Glastons. If you're reading this entire thread, it isn't about an optimal ski boat, it's the OP getting started with something that will work - better than a PWC. Not trying to be disagreeable, but having owned two CVX-16s myself (one with a factory Glastron ladder) and a GX150 to which I added an aftermarket boarding ladder, and my brother in law's SSV-167 (yes it had a boarding ladder and also a too-tall pylon trying to clear his inline-6 Merc), they all made decent ski boats. I skied a lot behind each and pulled many skiers from kids to adult slalom skiers.

boatless bobby I hope you're having a great summer with the boat purchase. Share a followup and let us know how the summer is going!

 

[DonHof]

Looks like a couple of nice boats to start off with.