Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

Wood, the method both of us recommended - the first laminate in the schedule is the smallest piece - makes absoulte sense to me.
You don’t need to use capital letters and Face+Palm character as if you are disparately trying to get your point across to whole bunch of idiots.

What didn't make sense to me is how the guy did it in the first video I posted a link to. Again, in the first video, he started by the largest piece and deliberately did that, it is wasn’t an accident or a mistake. In the video, he said “As in any structural repair, you start by the largest piece first.” This confused the OP. My subsequent posts were to support your method by evidence (another video and a page from a reputable book) to assure the OP that the laminate schedule YOU suggested - and I supported -in your reply is the correct way.

I HOPE this all makes sense. :facepalm:

 

[dkellogg3]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

Deep and Wood

I get it, and it makes the most sense to my structural engineer brain as well.

One lingering question.... why CSM and 1708? Why not just multiple layers if 1708?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

CSM yields a much smoother finished surface. 1708 leaves a textured surface. CSM offers little strength to the mix so the 1708 gives the strength the CSM aids with bonding and texture.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

1708 already has a layer of CSM in it. You can use 1708 by itself and you will be fine. If we still talking about glassing from the inside, I don't see it making any difference how smooth or rought your final layer would be. More likely it will be covered by a panel or carpet.

 

[dkellogg3]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

You guys rock. Thanks!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

I was speaking of glassing on the outside only. I was assuming you had no access to the inside.

 

[dkellogg3]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

Here's what I'm thinking. Assuming inside access, grind smooth and layup a couple if layers of 1807 to strengthen the area for the season. Clean up loose fibers and temporarily fill from outside with Formula 27 (polyester) to seal off fibers and light coat of blue gel or paint for aesthetics. Then come fall, grind out the 27 and do proper prep and repair with poly, csm , and 1807.

Thoughts?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

Yep if you can get to the inside that should do the trick.

 

[dkellogg3]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

Checked this evening. It is a complete puncture, with the back having a blown out piece about 1" square. I can get to it from the back but I'll have to pull the soft vinyl liner from the recessed pocket area under the gunwale. It's pretty close to where the lower and upper portions of the hull are joined at the rub rail.

Didn't get a picture and now the cover us already pulled tight, so that will have to wait until late morning after my 4 year old's ballet class.

Once I pull that liner, to get it back in what should j use for an adhesive? 3M spray? I have some if that from when fixed the sagging liner in the engine compartment.

Thanks again guys.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Deep narrow gouge.... MarineTex & gecoat?

3M will do. Use this to remove the old adhesive before you start gridding specially if you are going to use flap disk so you don’t waste one or two flap disk get clogged with the old adhesive

A good spray and then a wipe down with bronze – don’t use steel – wool followed by a another spray and wipe down with a rage will do the trick. It can be found in your local auto body supply store