Deck replacement question

phi1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
6
Hi there,

I just picked up my new project boat! Its a Mitch craft 25ft center console, see pictures below! I got the boat very cheap $4k knowing that it needs some work, the motor runs and drives fantastic, the deck has a few soft spots and I am planning on replacing the deck nearly 100% I am going to remove t top and center console and cut right the way back till near the live well (the floor and stringers back there are solid as a rock!)

I have undertaken huge car projects normally haven't really done much boat work but I am a carpenter/contractor by trade so I am pretty hand with wood work etc!! I have worked with fiberglass before, so after doing research I believe the best way is going to be to cut the floor at the bottom of the gunnels so I can then remove it and I will have something to epoxy/fiberglass back to.

My plan was to remove everything from the deck and then cut out the floor remove all foam and stringers and then replace and reinforce, I was going to use marine ply and coat it in epoxy to help weather it. Once I have laid the new floor down what is the best way to bond / put on the top service to make it strong and ready for the final coat of the awl grip textured floor I am going to use. I was also considering 2 layers of marine ply to make it extra strong is this a good idea or not?

Pretty much to summarize,

1. cut old floor out at bottom of gunnels,
2. remove old foam and stringers
3. install new stringers and foam ( need product suggestion for stringers)
4. install new marine ply coated and sealed in epoxy.
5. fiberglass/epoxy new ply to gunnels and smooth the join
6. smooth all gunnels, floor so a nice even cover of awl grip textured white can be painted


Thanks in advanced for the help! Planning on getting this project turned around within a month so I can be on the water this season! The outside is also going to get a coat of paint along with T top and other parts being power coated so essentially this boat is going to be like brand new for a fraction of the price!


gn49.jpg

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q98u.jpg
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Deck replacement question

This should help you understand how to build your boat back a little better:

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...lly-started-w-pics-384982-25.html#post3586813

One single layer of 3/4" plywood will be plenty for your deck.

See what your stringers are made of and the height and thickness of them before buying your material to fabricate them.

That'll be a really nice boat when you get done with it.
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: Deck replacement question

Hi and welcome to the Boat restoration madness...
I will start out by saying that is a nice looking hull and it sounds like you have a pretty good plan laid out...
I would suggest only one thing at this time...and Please, don't take it the wrong way...Once you get the deck cut out, make absolutely certain and core sample your stringers and transom to be 100% sure they are solid...
You didn't mention the age of the boat, but it looks like it has been sitting out in the elements for some time, and soft spots in the deck generally indicate soft bones...
If the motor and trailer are in great shape, you still have a real nice candidate for a complete restoration if needed.
For materials, the boat was most likely originally built with polyester resin. No real need for the added expense of epoxy, unless that's what you really want. Keep in mind if you want to gel coat afterwards, you will have to stick with poly, it won't stick to epoxy...
On the wood, you can spend the big bucks on marine grade, or you can use several other types of very good quality, exterior type plywood available, that when properly encased in fiberglass will live for decades...
Be sure to post up lots of pics of your progress and the guys here will be glad to offer any help or guidance you will need.
Best of luck and have fun!
GT1M
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Deck replacement question

It also appears this is a Liner style boat which means there may be some other considerations when undertaking the reconstruction of it. Once the deck has been removed we'll be able to tell alot more about her.
 

phi1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
6
Re: Deck replacement question

The stringers are just wood 2x4 by the looks of things and most of them are ok it's just a couple up front, the floor is just flexing between the stringers, but I want to do this job once and do it right!

This should help you understand how to build your boat back a little better:

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...lly-started-w-pics-384982-25.html#post3586813

One single layer of 3/4" plywood will be plenty for your deck.

See what your stringers are made of and the height and thickness of them before buying your material to fabricate them.

That'll be a really nice boat when you get done with it.
 

phi1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
6
Re: Deck replacement question

The hull is in fantastic condition just looks ugly with the paint job it currently has, my plan is to get the inside completely done 100% floor paint etc and then give the outside a paint I need to do a lot more research on what I can use to paint the outside to a gloss black finish.

I have painted many cars but not a boat that's going to be used in salt water! The stringers are just 2x4 by the looks of things and the floor is only slightly flexing at the front where one of the stringers is rotten! I want to pull the whole deck and do the job once and right first time round, before I bought the boat I spent around 2hrs looking to make sure it wasn't a lost cause and bought it on the basic that I knew I had to replace the stringers and deck the transom is as solid as it could be, along with the motor! The age of the boat is 2001, I can only assume that it's had water in it before possibly failed bilge or something for it to rot so soon? I plan on using pressure treated lumber to ensure it will last me.

I am going to cut the floor out at the weekend and then can do the planning on the stringers and the deck replacement but like I said this will be fast moving project as I plan to have it on the water within 6 weeks from now! I will post some more pictures once the floor is cut out and the boat is stripped, am I right in thinking that I should cut the floor at the bottom on the gunnels to remove?

Hi and welcome to the Boat restoration madness...
I will start out by saying that is a nice looking hull and it sounds like you have a pretty good plan laid out...
I would suggest only one thing at this time...and Please, don't take it the wrong way...Once you get the deck cut out, make absolutely certain and core sample your stringers and transom to be 100% sure they are solid...
You didn't mention the age of the boat, but it looks like it has been sitting out in the elements for some time, and soft spots in the deck generally indicate soft bones...
If the motor and trailer are in great shape, you still have a real nice candidate for a complete restoration if needed.
For materials, the boat was most likely originally built with polyester resin. No real need for the added expense of epoxy, unless that's what you really want. Keep in mind if you want to gel coat afterwards, you will have to stick with poly, it won't stick to epoxy...
On the wood, you can spend the big bucks on marine grade, or you can use several other types of very good quality, exterior type plywood available, that when properly encased in fiberglass will live for decades...
Be sure to post up lots of pics of your progress and the guys here will be glad to offer any help or guidance you will need.
Best of luck and have fun!
GT1M
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Deck replacement question

If the deck has not been removed how do you know what the stringers are? How do you know the Transom is 100% sound and good to go?
 

phi1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
6
Re: Deck replacement question

If the deck has not been removed how do you know what the stringers are? How do you know the Transom is 100% sound and good to go?

because there is a massive access panel at the back of the boat so I could get right in there with a flashlight and screwdriver stabbing at things! and then theirs various access panels along the boat to view in the hull and you can see the stringers!
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,874
Re: Deck replacement question

Post some pix of the stuff below decks, if WOG is correct about it being a liner constructed boat, and I tend to agree, it's usually not as easy as reaching thru the hatches to the stringers & etc. They are also not usually bare wood 2X's, usually they are fiberglassed & tabbed between the hull & deck. But they may be.

Ahmincha had an unusual set up too, and also got similar questions & replies from WOG, Jib & myself, as well as others:
Deck coating / Turned complete restore


He too had a few soft spots & wanted to do a partial, then only a deck replacement. It's become much more involved once he opened it up.
PC300057_zps22344e9c.jpg


He also thought the transom was sound & seaworthy. Unfortunately, that turned out to be incorrect:
P1130033_zps014a62e1.jpg
 

phi1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
6
Re: Deck replacement question

I will take some pictures tomorrow, I know the transom isn't rotten I spent about an hour tonight looking over the boat, the back is coated fiberglass where the transom is and I drilled a small hole in several areas there about 3/4 in and the wood coming out was dry as a bone and solid, I am going to make sure they get filled good! by the looks of things it has vertical stringers and is unlike the picture above but we will see once I get the deck off!
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,874
Re: Deck replacement question

Holes into the transom from the INSIDE of the boat though, right?

Look forward to the pix.

Late to the party, so sorry in the delay:

Welcome to the iboats dry dock. Lots of helpful folks hanging around this boat house. Add a city/state to you're profile. When the time comes to recommend vendors, it'll help to know where ya are.
 

phi1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
6
Re: Deck replacement question

Yeah from the inside I only went maybe 40% total depth of the total and it was all dry, I'm certain the transom is fine, I will post some pics once I get the deck off.
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
Re: Deck replacement question

The hull is in fantastic condition just looks ugly with the paint job it currently has, my plan is to get the inside completely done 100% floor paint etc and then give the outside a paint I need to do a lot more research on what I can use to paint the outside to a gloss black finish.

I have painted many cars but not a boat that's going to be used in salt water!

Hey phil, Nice boat!...and for the price you paid, that Merc looks real good. Since youve painted many cars, you most likely know how difficult gloss black can be, even more so on a boat. The Awlgrip/Griptex deck is a good choice. For the hull and topside, you can go with Awlgrip or another poly but keep in mind, they go on as sprayed...no cut/buff to fix things..well, you can but......another better option, imo would be a Single Stage AU from PPG, Dupont, Akzo, ect. will be alot easier, you can buff them out and wax...even add some clear to the final coats for a candy....both options have their plus and minuses in a salt boat.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Deck replacement question

Core sampling the Transom and getting dry shavings is a good indication that the transom is sound. Doing the same thing to the stringers should be your next step to ensure they are in the same condition. I'm assuming from your post that from your access panels that there is not much foam blocking your view/access to the stringers so you should be able to drill into them as well. If in fact the stringers and transom check out to be good to go then I suspect your timeline of a 6 week turnaround could be doable. If you plan on cutting in the same access hatches and configuration for the deck similar to what's there now, it will take a bit of time to glass that all in and make it look good. I'd cut it at the bottom of the gunwales as you suggested.
 
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