Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

[jaandri]

Need Advice:

Most of you have probably heard this story 100s of times? I found a boat last Fall that was a steal at $400? just needed a little work? floor had a few soft spots, and the engine just needed a tune up?

Reality ? okay, I am a boat newbie and perhaps my ?steal? wasn?t a steal afterwards? Here is the full background!

?This is a 1987 Nordic Crestliner with a 165 Mercruiser (also know as the 470 closed cooling system engine?)
?Over the winter I pulled the engine and outdrive and made the necessary repairs
?Since its getting warmer here in Illinois, I took the boat out of the barn a couple weeks ago, and ripped up the floor and found the rotten stringer, and still wet foam
?I have removed the rotten stringers, foam and started installing the new stringers

Questions:
1)Has anyone used Bondo Poly Resin?
2)I used PL for the stringers, and plan to use 1 layer of CSM and 2 layers of 1708 for the new stringers. Is there anything special I need to know about layering over old fiberglass when I cover the butt joints?
3)I have cut drain holes in the stringers for better drainage in the future? I noticed many have used PVC in the drain holes, but Can I just use resin and CSM to seal the wood around the holes?
4)For sealing the deck, is it necessary to seal the bottom with CSM? For the top of the deck, will 1 layer of CSM work?

Any other advice is appreciated, however keep in mind this is a low budget project. I plan to use this boat for the next 10 years, but probably only about 10 times per year and it will be kept dry in a shed at all other times?

Hopefully the pics below will help give an idea of where I am at, I have cut the deck and test fit but that?s about it?

Thanks - Jason

 

[jaandri]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

More Pics

 

[jaandri]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

More pics of Stringer Work

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

Your work looks great so far. I am not glass guy so I can't comment on much. However, I do think that the Bondo resin isn't that great and that it is a waxed resin which means you'd have to thoroughly sand between each coat. I think that would be a lot of extra work. I believe you want a "laminating" resin. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than I will be along with more info about your fiberglass layup schedule.

 

[produceguy]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

I would recomend useing 3m all purpose resin from Home Depot if you don't want to order the non wax stuff.
I used the 3m and the bondo resin and the 3m is better.

You will need alot of resin.

Just make sure you get a good sanding on the glass you want to bond the new glass to, with the waxed resin ,prep is the key.

I cut all the glass to fit first and if you don't want to sand between lay ups you can lay more than 1 lay up at a time but you have to work fast.
I would glass the top with 1 layer of 1.5.
If you don't want to glass the bottom of the deck, you need to cover it with a good layer of resin.

You can just seal the wood around the drain but a piece of pvc will make it easier to glass.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

I would NOT recommend using anything but the NON waxed resin and I would NOT buy it at any of the HOME outlets. Not sure where you live but you could check with the local boat or body shops to see if they have any local distributors of laminating resin if not then I recommend ordering from www.uscomposites.com They have some of the best prices on the web and their 435 resin is perfect for your project. You'll need a minimum of 5 galons and 10 yds of 1.5 oz CSM mat and 10 yard of 1708 biax cloth. Check out this thread for all the pics and videos to help you.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=454460

 

[jaandri]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

Thanks for all of the feedback about the resins, very helpful - Thankyou!
There is a lot to think about, but I now have a few additional questions?

Questions about Waxed Resin
Thanks for letting me know that Bondo Poly Resin is a waxed Resin ? I really couldn?t tell based on the can. The main reason I am considering Bondo Poly Resin is due to the fact that it is cheap and available at the local hardware store, about $28 per gallon.

I do want to make sure I get the facts and after the previous posts, I am concerned about the wax part of the resin?

1) Besides having to sand, are there other reasons for not using the waxed resin?
2) Setting aside the waxed apsect, is Bondo or 3M resin inferior to what I could buy from US Composites?
2) If I want to avoid sanding between coats, how Long do I have to add a second layer before the resin ?kicks?
3) If I do have to sand, how much sanding are we talking about?

Questions about the Existing FoamI didn?t tear out the foam in the forward section of the hull since the wood/stringers wasn?t rotten? However, the edge of the foam is now exposed and I read somewhere that its now no longer water proof?

1) Is there any way to add a protective coating over the exposed foam? Any other suggestions?

 

[Psiclown]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

I have used some Bondo poly resin and it was unwaxed. It should say it in very fine print on the side I believe. Working time depends on how much hardener you use and the temp. I usually add 10-12 drops per ounce and it gives me 20 minutes'ish. And I do a layer of CSM followed immediatley by a layer of cloth before it kicks. The ONLY reason I use unwaxed is to avoid between layup sanding. More dust, more cleanup, more acetone....more time...

 

[jaandri]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

I looked at the can and it says nothing about wax... All it says is "Formulated to be used with Fiberglass Cloth and Mat" "Unsaturated Polyester Resin (Styrene Monomer)"

In addition, the instructions discuss adding a 2nd layer and nothing about needing to sand everything. It does recomend fethering the edges before adding a second coat, but thats it...

So - I assume this is a Non-Waxed Resin, I will call 3M to confirm. I agree it makes sense to stay away from waxed resin.

Question:
I'd like to use paint or maybe a rubber "paint on application" truck bed liner for the ski locker area and engine compartment area... Do I need to prep the cured resin before painting?

 

[jaandri]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

CORRECTION: Bad News - The rep from 3M called me back and informed me that both the 3M and the Bondo Resin are waxed resins.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Deck and Stringer Repair: Need Advice

This will give you a LOT of good information about fiberglassing.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=286013