Complete Newbie - Started demo, have a couple of questions.

[sycophantichallenger]

So, I have procured a 1988 Bayliner 1950 Capri Cuddy for a mere 600 bux (w/ trailer, worth more than 600 alone). It has a 3.0 OMC Cobra stern drive engine, and seems to run/start quite well after preliminary testing (video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5XZHp7iGHw ). The previous owner (whom I know) had it uncovered outside for the last 2 years, so, anticipating extensive water damage I began w/ the demo work.

I removed both the port + starboard side passenger seats. They are the "back to back" style which fold out to a lounging bed. The bases and seats take up a lot of room on the boat and I've been thinking I'd like to change some aspects when I rebuild. The seats were atop large boxes which were filled w/ foam. So here is my question, what is the likelihood that the seat boxes/foam contained within were a structural aspect of the boat? IE: should I rebuild as best I can to original spec, or could I change to a pedestal style seat upon mounting blocks I will build? While I understand that the presence of the foam is to keep the hull afloat should she sink, I am thinking of foaming under deck, as an alternative to the large foam filled boxes the seats were previously sat upon.

I am sorry if this is obtuse, I'd like to upload images of it, but every time I try, the forum replies "invalid file data"...

 

[sycophantichallenger]

I should also say, this is definitely going to be a project boat. It has many rough aspects to it, and many repairs to be done. I do have original seats/upholstery which are actually in pretty good shape considering the age of the boat, I also have cuddy cabin doors (removed on video) which I will relaminate/replace hardware, etc. The goal for this year is to get it structurally sound. I am hoping that everything fore of the dash is intact enough to not require rebuilding.

 

[Rickmerrill]

First, welcome to the dry dock! Just a guess but I suspect those boxes filled with foam are just for flotation but it will help to see them. If you get a free Photobucket account, upload pics to it, copy the IMG code you can paste that right into your text it will work. You might still get a database error but refresh the page and it will be there.

 

[jigngrub]

Looks like she's going to be a bloody rotter when you dig into her.

You'll have to assess your foam requirements after you get her torn down to the stringers as you may have foam below deck too, and you may need the additional foam under the seat boxes.

I wouldn't get my hopes up too high for everything forward of the helm being solid, she looks pretty nasty... been rode hard and put up wet too many times.

 

[sycophantichallenger]

I've done as you suggested. Here are some pictures to give a better idea. So, essentially what I am wanting to do is, after floor replacement (and stringers if necessary... sigh) is leave these boxes out entirely. The back to back seats would sit atop these boxes. Instead of use that style, I'd like to use pedestal style seats to provide for more leg room/more room in general. As best I can tell, these boxes are built just below or at the water line, so I can't really see their presence being structural, but as I'm a complete newb, and this is the first boat I've owned myself, I just want to be sure.

 

[MikDee]

You should have the drive down when running, otherwise it's harder on the universals. Good Luck! Mike

 

[tpenfield]

So, I have procured a 1988 Bayliner 1950 Capri Cuddy for a mere 600 bux (w/ trailer, worth more than 600 alone). It has a 3.0 OMC Cobra stern drive engine, and seems to run/start quite well after preliminary testing (video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5XZHp7iGHw ). The previous owner (whom I know) had it uncovered outside for the last 2 years, so, anticipating extensive water damage I began w/ the demo work.

I removed both the port + starboard side passenger seats. They are the "back to back" style which fold out to a lounging bed. The bases and seats take up a lot of room on the boat and I've been thinking I'd like to change some aspects when I rebuild. The seats were atop large boxes which were filled w/ foam. So here is my question,

#1 what is the likelihood that the seat boxes/foam contained within were a structural aspect of the boat?

#2 should I rebuild as best I can to original spec, or could I change to a pedestal style seat upon mounting blocks I will build?

#3 While I understand that the presence of the foam is to keep the hull afloat should she sink, I am thinking of foaming under deck, as an alternative to the large foam filled boxes the seats were previously sat upon.

I am sorry if this is obtuse, I'd like to upload images of it, but every time I try, the forum replies "invalid file data"...

Welcome to iBoats . . .

The forum site is a little 'fussy' after having gone through a software upgrade. So the best thing for pictures is to set up a photobucket account or similar and 'copy/paste' the images from there.

In terms of your questions . . .

#1 = 0 chance

#2 = yes you could change to a pedestal provided you have a substantial base.

#3 = foam in the hull is also structural as well as flotation. If it was there, it should go back in very much the same way on a rebuild.

Lots of similar rebuilds to review on this site, so take some time and look through the threads. Post updates and questions as you see fit, you'll get good responses. Lots of pics and even some videos help in that regard.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Floatation foam is usually a combination of volume and location. Generally the heaviest part of the boat is the engine so more foam is towards the rear and balanced side to side. If you want to remove the seat boxes you can always relocate the foam to an open area with similar volume. You could always add it along the sides under the gunwales.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Here is some good reading.

http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/education_safety/safety/boatwater/backyardboatbuilders.pdf

 

[sycophantichallenger]

Here is some good reading.

http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/education_safety/safety/boatwater/backyardboatbuilders.pdf

Awesome resource. Thank you!

So, I did a little more work tonight. I decided to cut out a section of the floor to try to assess the struts and cross braces.


The condition of the deck seems pretty good all things considered, however I was not doing the cut in 1 of the "trouble" spots. The spots of concern are closer to where the tank is situated and I wanted to get a feel for where the struts are located in a safe area before doing anything else.

The strut seems to be in good shape at this point, upon visual inspection. I decided to cut further back and see if I could check the condition of one of the cross braces.

This shows the view from below the deck. I can't tell if the wood is greyed from moisture exposure (presumably it is) or if this is the result of a resin soak. Perhaps more experienced eyes can tell.

This shows where the cross brace meets the hull. So, at first look, does this look borked, or look okay? What would be the correct method to "core" the strut to minimize repair work if it is in fact fine and what spacing should I use between cores? Is coring the cross braces necessary or recommended given their appearance?

Thanks for your help and your patience as I begin to wrap my head around this stuff. If I'm not working on my boat, I'm reading up on different topics, but it takes a while to absorb it all and sometimes it's nice to have a sounding board rather than reaching my own conclusions, then doubting them. Obviously, I'd like to avoid unnecessary work, but safety and stability are paramount so I have a feeling I'll end up doing more than I'd hoped.

 

[sycophantichallenger]

I should add, I was pretty surprised to see how little foam/how much space was available in the center section of the hull. I suppose it's for balance consideration, as the sections on both port and starboard are filled to the nuts.

Oh, and thanks all for alerting me to balance/bouyancy concerns. After doing some reading on the topic of course it seems straight forward. I require sufficient buoyancy to float the weight of the boat and it's components should it ever swamp.

 

[jigngrub]

Set your circular saw blade for 1/8" deeper than the decking thickness and cut around the perimeter of your decking for removal.

The "black" wood below deck is a bad sign and it'll need to be removed and replaced.

 

[tpenfield]

I should add, I was pretty surprised to see how little foam/how much space was available in the center section of the hull. I suppose it's for balance consideration, as the sections on both port and starboard are filled to the nuts. Oh, and thanks all for alerting me to balance/bouyancy concerns. After doing some reading on the topic of course it seems straight forward. I require sufficient buoyancy to float the weight of the boat and it's components should it ever swamp.

More often than not, the partially filled cavities in the hull are just a workmanship issue, in terms of not putting enough foam in. Not much science to it.

 

[sycophantichallenger]

Hrm, okay if it comes down to replacing the stringers I think I'll go w/ cedar stringers for added durability/rot resistance. I have the lucky benefit of being a yard manager and purchaser for a lumber/hardware store and therefore have access to a fair amount of materials at or near cost and a rapport w/ different vendors to negotiate special pricing as a favor. We have a great "utility" grade cedar at a great price point. I suppose this could only add benefit to the design.

Anywho, it's Canada day today, so I'll be outside tearing up the floor. More pictures coming soon.

 

[sycophantichallenger]

So, I've done a little more tearing apart. These pictures don't show the most recent progress. I did have a video clip showing more, but apparently I can't stop myself from cursing like a sailor during this process, so I opted not to upload. It was definitely worse than I had hoped. I'm going to have to pull apart the back seat construct, pull up the floor and replace the stringers.


...... I mean look at that little dolop of foam... The person doing the foaming must have known they were cutting corners. I imagine a little foam was put in the hole for appearance sake, nothing more... Jesus.

standing water under deck.
I'm beginning to wonder what I've gotten myself in to.

Unlikely scenario, but I'm praying that the transom is okay. I guess I'll know once I get the outdrive/gimbal housing off.

 

[tpenfield]

Looks like you are starting down a well traveled road here on the restoration forum. You'll get lots of help and advise along the way.

Plan on some transom work, but you won't know for sure until you get back there. Also, consider that if you had to replace everything else (stringers, bulkheads, etc.) and the transom looked 'OK', you might be doing the transom a few years down the road. So, why not just do it now. . . .

 

[greenbush future]

It's a big job to do what you are getting into, but once it's done you will have a solid boat. And you also came to the best place ever to get knowledge about this stuff.