Chaparral 2000 SL Sport floor, and more?? [SPLASHED Sept 2017]

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I also rough cut the first bulkhead. I won't make the final cut at the top until I finish grinding. I will make sure a leave 1/4" gap spaced out with foam along the hull for bedding. This is just a rough cut to get the plywood piece more manageable. Instead of using a stringline, I used sort of a "story stick". Not the most accurate way of doing this, but gets me close enough that a can scribe the final fit.

 

[mickyryan]

I actually made a contour gauge out of 1/4 square dowels and 2 pieces of wood it worked really well

 

[79_banshee]

Looking good Chuck

79_banshee -40 C . . . :dizzy: :faint2:

Oh man it was brutal. Not fun to work in that's for sure. But if you dress for the weather it's not bad lol ya right. Great idea with the story stick Baylinerchuck. That bulk head looks good

 

[ripazka]

Would it be easiest to make molds out of cardboard/foam sheets and draw them on the plywood and then cut the wood? I thought that would be the easiest for me.

Thanks for your great pics, they help me a lot.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Would it be easiest to make molds out of cardboard/foam sheets and draw them on the plywood and then cut the wood? I thought that would be the easiest for me.

Thanks for your great pics, they help me a lot.

Honestly for me I'm not sure. I watched Friscoboater make patterns out of foam which seemed like a pretty decent idea, especially for the deck. Measuring everything out gets me close enough with not much time invested. The final cut will be made by scribing the plywood with a compass. I guess to each his own...I don't think there is a right method so long as you get to the same result without scrapping a perfectly good piece of plywood. ruining plywood is not good for the old restoration check book!! :frusty:

 

[gsxrdan]

I bought real thin cheap ply for making my templates, i liked having something physical to fettle and fit, also allowed me to cut everything to final height before installing. 1 sheet of template ply did the whole boat, as once uv finished with 1 pattern, re-use it for the next smaller 1.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I used 1/2" pink foam insulation board to make my deck templates. Much easier to cut/shapethan plywood. Much cheaper, too...

 

[ripazka]

I used 1/2" pink foam insulation board to make my deck templates. Much easier to cut/shapethan plywood. Much cheaper, too...

I was thinking that but I couldnt find thinner than 1 1/5" (30mm) insulation board from where I leave. I guess it could work too. At least for the bulkheads and stringers, hmm.

 

[ripazka]

Live*

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Couple small things done after getting my daughters Christmas present squared away. I put the fuel tank back in the boat and double checked a few measurements. I have determined 22" is the max forward I can move the fuel tank. I drew that up with all the bulkhead locations and took the tank back out. I cut the center bulkhead since I had an accurate location. More work tomorrow.

 

[mickyryan]

careful moving take forward , it gets too close to wiring of boat and you will fail a inspection

 

[Baylinerchuck]

careful moving take forward , it gets too close to wiring of boat and you will fail a inspection

I ain't skeered. Tank is between the stringers, helm wiring is tucked under the strbd side cap.....(is that a gunwale?) and routed to transom. If I could move the tank further, I would.
Your inspections must be pretty intense where you are. Ours consist of ensuring we have all state required safety devices, and current registration. We get a nice sticker in MD showing it's been done and usually don't get bothered by DNR Police again after that.

 

[tpenfield]

careful moving take forward , it gets too close to wiring of boat and you will fail a inspection

I am just wondering . . . do we have an iBoats restoration inspector :noidea:

 

[Woodonglass]

Another point to consider is COG of the boat. When the tank is full and having it moved forward, more than likely will affect the Planing of the boat?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Another point to consider is COG of the boat. When the tank is full and having it moved forward, more than likely will affect the Planing of the boat?

Well I would say that is most likely a yes. This boat had a big ole butt trying to get out of the hole. Once out of the hole it did well. I'm figuring that by moving the tank forward to more of the center of the boat, fuel load will have less of a drastic effect on how it performs. With a 31 gallon tank, a full tank weighs 186 lbs. I'm banking on the COG moving forward some, which I don't believe to be a bad thing in this case. The rear of the tank was only 12" from the front of the engine OEM. Now I'm somewhere around 32".

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Third bulkhead cut.

 

[proshadetree]

Sure wished I had moved my tank forward in the Capri. Like you said big old butt. Not bad when it is just the wife and I. Four or more passengers and it goes nose high butt down.

 

[mickyryan]

I am just wondering . . . do we have an iBoats restoration inspector :noidea:

no but if a uscg was to inspect it and find its closer then 2 ft from a ignition source ie the gauge cluster or ignition switch they might flag boat as unsafe.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

no but if a uscg was to inspect it and find its closer then 2 ft from a ignition source ie the gauge cluster or ignition switch they might flag boat as unsafe.

Thanks for posting those Mick. Good references for sure. I downloaded both. According to AYBC E-9.7.C(2)(b) my setup would be good no matter where I put the tank. It goes under a floor and between bulkheads and stringers, so it's considered isolated. I did notice there doesn't seem to be much mention of poly tanks in the USCG regs.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Merry Christmas everyone. Grinding tomorrow!!